Leaf Spring Suspension

[STOCKISH]

Is anyone riding around on rebuilt leaf spring suspension, front and rear? Specifically with a drop front axle. Curious as to the ride and handling of this? Thanks in advance.

[tsmith8]

Interested in thoughts on this as well.

[yossarian19]

In my truck, I've:
replaced all the front shackles & bushings
Converted to power steering (C10 box outside frame rail)
converted to power front disc brakes + tapered roller bearings
Replaced the kingpins (axle bosses are slightly worn, not ideal)
added a steering stabilizer
gone to the newer style tie rod ends & a solid 7/8" or so tie rod
and bought new OEM replacement shocks
I'm in to the factory style front end for nearly as much as some IFS kits, if I recall correctly $1,000 or so. Enough to complete a Dakota IFS install, maybe, or certainly a Crown Victoria or other junkyard IFS. It rides and handles like garbage. Steering is vague, ride is rough, not stable at highway speeds... I wouldn't do it over this way.
Since I'm in it this deep, though, I think I'm going to get it professionally aligned. Really, they'll just set the toe: but I'll take the caster measurements and use it as a baseline to get to 5* or so with pinion angle shims. After that, a sway bar would sure help with body roll - but I think, long term, I'm going to go IFS. I'd have to see some real strong improvements with caster & toe adjusted to consider sticking with the solid front end.
To be fair, you *can* make a stick front end drive pretty well. My 2004 Grand Cherokee proves it. I just don't know that you can do it on these trucks for any less time / money than you can if you go to an IFS (which will surpass any stick axle)

[STOCKISH]

Perfect answer, thank you.

[1957 Chief]

On my 49 I have a 3 inch drop axle from Sig's with all new kingpins with upgraded steering components with new roller bearings as well. I also have posies 3 inch drop springs with the upgraded shackles and what not with drop shocks. I had a professional alignment done and i don't have any issues whatsoever. Maybe a small hint of bumpsteer, but nothing like it used to have...heck it would change lanes on the road if i hit a bump.

Like Yos mentioned, I'm in it for about 1000 bucks, but my truck is stock drivetrain except with a borg warner overdrive unit.

[yossarian19]

Well, there's the counterpoint for ya...
Leaves me scratching my head, wondering why my truck is so sketchy and some other guys with a solid front end cruise around just fine.

[1957 Chief]

Yoss, id atleast take it to an alignment shop. Sid recommended to install 4 degree shims to improve the caster on my front axle. I know that helped mine out a ton.

Bubba

[STOCKISH]

And then there's that^^ lol. For some reason I'd be happy leaving leaf springs on all 4 corners if it will ride and drive ok. Saves me from cutting and welding on the chassis for a MII or similar. And just seems nostalgic to leave the I beam.

[STOCKISH]

Originally Posted by 1957 Chief

On my 49 I have a 3 inch drop axle from Sig's with all new kingpins with upgraded steering components with new roller bearings as well. I also have posies 3 inch drop springs with the upgraded shackles and what not with drop shocks. I had a professional alignment done and i don't have any issues whatsoever. Maybe a small hint of bumpsteer, but nothing like it used to have...heck it would change lanes on the road if i hit a bump.

Like Yos mentioned, I'm in it for about 1000 bucks, but my truck is stock drivetrain except with a borg warner overdrive unit.

What kind of highway speeds are you seeing with your truck? And being lowered, how responsive is the handling?

[1957 Chief]

I usually drive about 55-60 with the overdrive. Truck is pretty responsive and nimble, but def not like a newer car. Doesn't jump all over the road and has plenty of suspension travel.
I have factory sway bar for the truck, but I can't seem to find any bushings.

Bubba

[agnes the dog]

I have a 3"drop axle with a sway bar that I modified from a mid 2000's Trialblazer. I also removed a couple leafs from the packs to soften the ride. I found that I had some really bad handling at first. I didn't swap the shocks and one blew out. I swapped to some heavier, shorter shocks and it's really quite nice to drive. I have a T5 trans, so I can pretty much cruise at 70-80 all day comfortably.

I keep kicking the idea of doing a camaro subframe, but I just can't bring myself to go through all that work with the truck as nice as it is now.

[yossarian19]

OK, I've heard enough. I'm going to see how well I can get the leaf springs to ride, especially with the money I've already got into them.

[Lo1dakota]

i haven't had an alignment yet, but mine seems to be just fine.

Speedway 3" drop axle
3" drop springs
Power steering conversion

I will say it's not IFS quality but WAY better than the factory setup.

[focusedontheprize]

I was in the same boat when I first started putting together my '49.

As most of the guys here did, I went with Sid's 3" dropped axle out front. I pulled apart the front leaf springs and lined them with polyliners before cleaning them up and putting them back in.

The rear was TCI's 4" drop springs.

I drive the truck quite a bit doing 75+ and it handles great.

Good luck - looking forward to seeing your build.

[nvrdone]

my '49 has a 3" dropped axle from sid's, stock springs with poly liners, gas shocks, all new bushings, roller bearings, tie rod & tie rod ends and a stock front sway bar with a rear sway bar. alignment was set by a heavy truck shop with 5 deg caster. does it drive like my acura tl or a new truck? no way, but im comfortable crusing at 70 - 75 on any freeway. I could have gone ifs but didn't have the $$ all at one time or the desire to cut & weld the chassis

[mr48chev]

From personal experience with my truck the worse thing you can do handling wise is remove leaves from the front springs to lower the truck. It's a free drop job and quick and easy but they handle like crap and the ride isn't all that great.

Hate to say it but my truck was a handful with the removed leaves even with all the other pieces in good shape. I never checked the caster but have to believe that I either had negative caster or not near enough even after I added a caster shim.
Somewhat like the shoemaker's kids running barefoot as I worked as a front end alignment mechanic (before they were techs) for a lot of years.

Still along with incorrect caster or worn parts contributing tires can be an issue especially if they are worn on the edges and the surface is more round than flat or if you run excessive air because you think the tires look funny or flat with the correct air. That was a battle I fought daily in the early 70's when radials became common. guys and especially old farts would pump the radials up to about 45 lbs to make them look like the bias tires they were used to and they didn't handle and rode terrible. Had one guy wear the center of the tread out in a few thousand miles because he aired the tires up over 40 lbs because he didn't like the looks of them with the correct pressure. Went to court on that one and won.

Still it comes down to check for anything loose. Have the alignment checked and set by a competent shop. If you have an axle that Sid did you shouldn't have to worry about the camber unless you hit something but old axles that haven't been checked may need adjustment.
Proper caster, too little and an I beam axle wants to wander a bit, too much and the steering gets hard as you are actually lifting the weight of the truck when you turn. Meaning you don't need six or 8 degrees as some Ford guys think is the ideal on their cross leaf setups.

The stock tie rod ends and drag link ends have to be adjusted right. even though they are spring loaded a bit of slack really shows up in wheel play.

Ride is mostly the condition of the springs and the quality and rating of he shocks. There is a lot you can do that costs very little but gives great results. Shock wise, the right shocks for the way you drive and the ride you want and those may not be the cheapest and probably aren't the serious heavy duty ones.

[STOCKISH]

I have no problem spending the money to rebuild the leaf packs or even buy new ones. And buying high-quality shocks is not an issue either. For some reason I just felt like keeping the I-beam would be cool and thought I would give it a shot so it looks like I might do the drop I-beam after all.

[STOCKISH]

Originally Posted by focusedontheprize

I was in the same boat when I first started putting together my '49.

As most of the guys here did, I went with Sid's 3" dropped axle out front. I pulled apart the front leaf springs and lined them with polyliners before cleaning them up and putting them back in.

The rear was TCI's 4" drop springs.

I drive the truck quite a bit doing 75+ and it handles great.

Good luck - looking forward to seeing your build.

Other than the 3 inch drop axle in the front is the rest of your front suspension factory? Did you have to alter your steering at all or is it factory as well?

[STOCKISH]

Also, does anyone sell a kit with dropped axle and disc brakes, new steering, etc?

[1957 Chief]

Sid does the axle/kingpins and steering updates. He is a squared away feller and has done a lot of axles for me.

Disc brakes will most likely have to be mail order.

Bubba

[Advanced Design]

Beautiful truck 1957 Chief!

Originally Posted by 1957 Chief

On my 49 I have a 3 inch drop axle from Sig's with all new kingpins with upgraded steering components with new roller bearings as well. I also have posies 3 inch drop springs with the upgraded shackles and what not with drop shocks. I had a professional alignment done and i don't have any issues whatsoever. Maybe a small hint of bumpsteer, but nothing like it used to have...heck it would change lanes on the road if i hit a bump.

Like Yos mentioned, I'm in it for about 1000 bucks, but my truck is stock drivetrain except with a borg warner overdrive unit.

[tsmith8]

Im loving this thread right now. The suspension and steering will be my winter project. So i do have a few questions.

1 - Everyone appears to be going a dropped axel instead of lowered front springs. Why?

2 - Do you use lower springs in the rear for match the dropped axel in the front?

3 - or do you do an axel flip in the rear?

I will have more questions soon.

[wolffcub]

I have the almost same setup as someone posted above so here is a copy paste edit of it.

replaced all the front shackles & bushings
got new 2.75" lowered leaf springs installed
Converted to power steering (C10 box outside frame rail)
converted to power front disc brakes + tapered roller bearings
Replaced the kingpins (axle bosses are slightly worn, not ideal)
gone to the newer style tie rod ends & new tie rod
and bought new OEM replacement shocks
added 4 deg of caster

For a straight axle is handles nice but can get a bit harsh at times when driving rough roads. I do a a bit of play in the left kingpin boss so next summer or during the winter im going to get a new 3" dropped axle and all new pins and components. Going to make a new machined one piece steering arm that connects to the pitman that is stepped downward so i can keep the linkage level and have no bump steer as i do now.

[1957 Chief]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Beautiful truck 1957 Chief!

Thanks brother. Was my grand daddy's truck, been in the family since 1951.

Honored to own it.
_____________________

As far as the questions:
1. A dropped axle done correctly maintains the original geometry of the steering. Now you have to get a shorter pitman arm for the bumpsteer, but thats just part of it. Springs are the reverse eye type, and they aren't flimsy like a stock leaf pack with a ton of leafs removed.
2. On the back I used lowering springs as well, with a block.
3. Since I put an old school Borg Warner OD unit in the truck, I had to switch rear ends. 55-59 rears are the same except for the parking break cables.

Bubba

[dsraven]

they make a bolt in ifs for that truck, correct? worth it i'd say.