72 K30 Build

[7dee2]

That really sux your GVOD didn’t work as planned, not good. I know they can burn up the clutches in a hurry if engaged at low speeds and in reverse due to a lack of lubrication. Also found while talking with GV tech support that they can leak from the tail shaft and that is a sure sign the drive line is too short (I’d assume this condition could create a vibration also?). I’ll second the freekin' expensive part!


We ordered our unit with a fixed yoke and will place a slip in the driveline instead. This is a better idea for us because I don’t know what the exact ride height will be until the truck is completely built. Planning on driving the truck to the vendor for the bed install so waiting to build the driveline isn’t really an option.

Ha, this is what’s happening right now on the K30 build just picked up the new driveline yesterday!

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice OD unit! I have had some issues with GV units in cummins trucks. But I've had more issues with the US gear OD units when they used to build them. Those were horrid to say it nicely.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

Following along your ac rebuild as well. I used Old Air in my suburban and its headed for the trash can this winter. On the top 3 of worst mods with the gear vendor od being 2nd.
I am planning a factory a/c system replacement

Glad your following, I've been working on the AC a little here and there and will get right back to it after the GV install. Want it ready when the cab gets back from paint.

Originally Posted by notchbackgta

What was your issue with the GV?

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

From the electronics controls including poor wiring "lazy solenoid " and vibration that I chased for nearly 2 summers I still have a bitter taste in my mouth. Expensive gear vendors only parts.. I thought about it more and having a $3000+ unit behind a $1000 T400 just didn't add up.

I LS swapped the truck and had a well build 4L80E for $2000 and just drive the truck now. If it brakes on a road trip I can get parts are anywhere in north America next day at worst.

72Mario has chimed in before in his dislike for the GV and I can’t say as I blame him due to his experiences. I appreciate his input (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...9&postcount=52) and that of others I’ve talked to while researching this, it’s mechanical so it breaks and knowing what can go wrong is good. Hopefully our experience is better by avoiding some common causes for failure. Time will tell if that was a really expensive hat!

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice OD unit! I have had some issues with GV units in cummins trucks. But I've had more issues with the US gear OD units when they used to build them. Those were horrid to say it nicely.

Thanks Ryan, I’ve never owned one of these before but think it’s a pretty cool idea and just had to try one!


This setup is really, really loooong!

[Dieselwrencher]

I really think the high torque output of the trucks we had issues with was more to blame than anything else. But, it wasn't my dog to fight. I just had to do what GV would let me do with them. I used to get updates on them from one of their engineers but he must not work there anymore because I haven't gotten any updates for a long time. I think you should be fine with yours. Just try not to lug the engine way down. I think there is the base of the problems. Or guys trying to shift them at WOT.

That looks so nice and shiny.

[7dee2]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience with the GV’s Ryan. Got to admit I do like my nice & shiny!

Here’s some pics of the GV fixed yoke option mentioned earlier. With the output tapped this unit will accept a fixed or slip style yoke. New drive line after stripping it, yep forgot to ask the vendor not to paint it, again...

[Dieselwrencher]

Brett, your rear shaft is just a little longer than the front shaft on my 72. That looks like a well built shaft.

[7dee2]

Why thank you Ryan, I’m pretty proud of that shaft!

The T400/205/GV w/yoke combo ended up roughly 56-1/2” loooong. As it sits the driveline measures 51-5/8”, with the rear off the ground and the diff dangling it measured 51-7/8” that’s the max number we gave the driveline shop. So 1350 ends, 3.5” tube and I’m hoping enough travel.


GV recommends Lucas 75w-90 Synthetic so we went with the same for the 205. Spun everything including our fresh 14bolt in drive 4Lo up to about 2K rpm.
A couple days later in drive 4Hi ran it up to I'm guessing 20-25 miles an hour until it finally shifted gears, freaked me out with thoughts of running over everything and smashing into the shelving on the other side of the garage!

Glad to report no crashes, no issues, no leaks, thinking this stuff is good to go for now. Here’s a link to a new video running everything at an idle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9Vl_w-uQJk

[rgunlock]

Everything is looking great! Cool video. I'd be tempted to add some steering and mount a chair and take it for a slow ride around the yard

[First c10]

Looking good Brett. I like how you are running it on jack stands. I never really thought about doing that. I think I may try that with the hulk.
Keep it up, that thing will be a beast.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Everything is looking great! Cool video. I'd be tempted to add some steering and mount a chair and take it for a slow ride around the yard

Thank you, Rick. Very tempting, but no. When I was 14 a buddy of mine and I went cruzin’ around the neighborhood taking turns riding on the fender working the throttle on my first car, a 65 Impala with the hood off. I’d pulled and fixed(?) the carb (busted the linkage doing it) and had to test! Ha, once a fool always a fool you know!

Originally Posted by First c10

Looking good Brett. I like how you are running it on jack stands. I never really thought about doing that. I think I may try that with the hulk.
Keep it up, that thing will be a beast.

Thanks, Scott. Just don’t let that sucker come off the stands it’ll be a bad day! We'll put it on stands again to bleed and test the brakes under power after the cab goes back on.


Our original evaporator (still needs to be cleaned up) has passed a flush & pressure test at a local radiator shop. The POA arrived back from Benny and looks great. Here are a few comparison pics of the old A6 and the A6 replacement (S6) compressor. On the fence right now about painting it for more of a factory look?

[First c10]

Brett the Compressor looks cool. I say paint it and no one will no the difference!!! .
I saved a bottle of R12 so I kept my sons '70 stock just cleaned out the stock 2011 AC compressor and used mineral oil and charged it up with R12. It will freeze you out of the truck....

[7dee2]

Yeah I believe it, R12 works great.


While researching our AC, I did call around locally most told me they couldn’t get R12. One vendor said they could but it would be $100 a pound, with no guarantee! Even asked a few friends and a buddy of mine has a few cans stashed he won’t part with so, the decision was made to move forward w/134a.

Our plans are as follows everything on the firewall remains factory (2b restored) including a new expansion valve, heater core, gaskets, cloth ducting and various small parts as needed.

The parts list so far:
1 = Modified POA valve calibrated for 134a (Benny) w/low side 134a adaptor fitting (NAPA # 409903?)
1 = Hose Assembly (Old Air # 95-7215A) w/high side 134a fitting built in
1 = Liquid Hose (Old Air # 95-7216)
1 = Harrison A6 replacement (S6) compressor (DiscountACParts # 60-01019NA)
1 = Dual Fan Assembly (Old Air # 50-7230S-2) w/wiring kit, w/jumper harnesses (2=Spal #FR-PT)
1 = Parallel Flow Condenser Kit (Vintage Air # 021567)

Tried several times to get someone at Vintage Air to confirm that a factory style hose kit would bolt to their condenser kit. They would not confirm but we took a chance and it does bolt up. This last piece makes it a bolt in so should be easy peasy!

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice! This winter I need to do the ac on the 72. Hey, did I see an oil puddle under the big block?

Just kidding! It sounds nice and it all looks great!

[7dee2]

Ha, such a kidder that would not make my day!



Cab update, high build primer/sealer went on next.

[rgunlock]

Looks nice Brett. I foresee a lot of block sanding in your near future!

[First c10]

Looking Good Brett,
Are you going to assemble all the sheet metal before painting? or have you already as I cant remember?

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Looks nice Brett. I foresee a lot of block sanding in your near future!

Thanks, Rick the sanding has resumed!

Originally Posted by First c10

Looking Good Brett,
Are you going to assemble all the sheet metal before painting? or have you already as I cant remember?

Thank you, Scott. Yes and no, we did the bare minimum on panel fitment in final mockup (current avatar), back then we got the fenders to match the cab and clear the running gear. Found with the later core support frame mounts we’ve got a lot of adjustment up front. In addition the original born with accident-free sheet metal fits pretty well together, or good enough at least for this new, old 4x4, flatbed work truck!



Wet sand with a little filler. Some rookie got a little crazy sanding the cowl (gouged it with the block a little) and was dismissed for the day, oops.

[7dee2]

More sanding… And the paint is in.

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking great! Does that paint can label say purple? It's going to look really nice!

[7dee2]

Thanks’ Ryan, it is getting really straight and could take a dark color like purple (Big Barney? ) or black.

72 Chevrolet Truck White 521 is a very, very bright white and would be fine except that we do have another white project, our 67 Camaro is to be Ermine White. To simplify, reduce waste and cost I chose to use the same color on both.

Here're some links you guys might find interesting.
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/paintdetail.cgi?ppg=8259

Scroll down to see this color on a 67 Camaro Pace Car.
http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcod...7WA2261&scomm=

Another round of high build, as well as some more DP90 going on the outer floor and the inner roof that got missed earlier. Some of the original undercoating remains on the outer floor, planning on giving it a fresh coat of rubber undercoating when it gets back to our garage. Right after these pics, we flipped the hood over and installed some new hood pads.

[Dieselwrencher]

Are you going to spray anything on it to help with sound deadening while you're at this point?

[7dee2]

I looked into possibly using LizardSkin, wasn’t aware that their heat and sound deadening material are two completely different products sprayed over the top of one another.

We’ve used jute padding as well as Fatmat in the past. Must say I do like the Fatmat, currently leaning towards their newer black butyl MegaMat with some jute padding again. Might try a mass backed carpet set from stock interiors also. All that stuff and some fresh rubber undercoating should be pretty good I hope.

Mass Back Carpet?
http://www.stockinteriors.com/massba...?RetItem=22494

[notchbackgta]

I like the mass backed carpet I put in the Suburban. It helps a lot with the noise

[swamp rat]

I read a Mass Backed Carpet thread here and it sounded promising.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by notchbackgta

I like the mass backed carpet I put in the Suburban. It helps a lot with the noise

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I read a Mass Backed Carpet thread here and it sounded promising.

Ha, good to hear! I'm thinking that is the plan then!



Removed the radiator and core support to start installing the new fans & AC parts, aux. battery tray, etc. Some of the paint was flaking off the new condenser brackets, a quick scuff & paint fixed that.