Upgrading Cam and valve train

[Lookin4the1]

I've come into a bit of good luck (maybe?) with my wiring setup and ecu. I have neither. I'm buying a psi harness(brand new) and a ecu for my lq4 with 4l80e that has already been wiped. The only issue is it was tuned for a certain cam. Luck would have it, the guy im buying it from has the cam as well. (The previous owner went in a different direction after 1000 miles.

now to my question. When I purchase this bundle deal. What else am I getting into? Here are my thoughts:

The cam: TSP 233/239-112

springs: pac 1219

retainers: PAC Racing 300 Series Valve Spring Retainers PAC-R310-16

I'm new to this so I'm not sure what retainers to get.

push rods: completely lost.

in conclusion: please help. I'd like to end up with a little better performance than stock. what better time then with the front end off and half the accessories and intake already off anyway?

[zach_carver]

If I was you I would contact BTR Racing, Brian tooley and ask them what to use cam wise and cam kit. Brian tooley is a big hitter with LS performance and he has some nice cams. The reason I say this is because this is what ill be doing when the time comes.

[homemade87]

I agree , Brian Tooley knows there stuff . Tell them what you want . That cam is a pretty healthy cam . A lot more than you may think . Not just a little more than stock . You will need a converter to run that cam also . And do not expect the tune to be correct either . You will have to have it tuned . To many thing different from car to car ( intake , exhaust , heads , ect ) .

[mongocanfly]

Same here as well..get it tuned when you get it running..when I got mine dyno tuned it picked up another 80 rwhp..

[TooTall]

Too big of a cam and too little of a spring.

You're better off telling us what you have truck wise and what are your goals for the truck.

truck setup as in, gears, converter (stock or aftermarket), which intake and TB size, bolt-ons? Track, street, strip, or just want it to sound good and nothing else matters?

Used cams are nice, but they need to be matched to your setup and (realistic) goals of what you want

233/239 -112 is kinda vague. What's the lift on it and the lobe type?

[Lookin4the1]

what aftermarket torque converter would be helpful? I'm also going to most likely be purchasing an aftermarket Intake and TB.

street only

[LeesTruk]

I suppose that everyone's definition of "street only" is different. Some may want an 11second "street only" truck, while others just want a nice driving vehicle. You may be surprised at how well a 6.0L will run with just a mild cam and the stock intake. And yes, getting the truck "tuned" at the local speed emporium may get you some more H.P., but also may take away some low end driveability, which is what you want for a street driven vehicle

I have a 5.3L/4L60e in my C10, with a BTR stg 1 cam/LS6 springs as the only engine mod., and a new PCM from PcmPerformance. The torque convertor is from a Trailblazer I6 w/2200-2600 stall (your 6.0L will be too strong for this). The truck has a good idle and VERY strong mid range. Ideal for my concept of "street only". You just have to be honest with yourself as to how and what you want to do, and maybe save some bucks in the process, instead of buying the latest gimmicks and ending up disappointed. I don't know how much H.P. my truck makes (don't need the bragging rights), and it hasn't seen the rollers on a dyno. I really don't care. All I know is, my truck runs Very well as is, and returns a consistent 19 mpg at highway speeds. That's my idea of "street only"

[BR3W CITY]

You aren't moving enough air volume to justify a new intake (I assume you mean intake manifold) and throttle body. You'll actually kill your power by doing those mods too early.

1. Good exhaust manifolds
2. Tune
3. Cam upgrade
4. Heads if you have the budget
5. Anything else

You won't take advantage of the power to be made, if you don't have a good header/exhaust. If you do have budget for heads, decide on the heads BEFORE spec'ing the cam.

I've seen more than my share of stock-ish setups having their owners buy big FAST intake mani/TB setups and LOSE 10-15 horsepower and most of their response. Don't buy a hi ram or performer for the same reason. Once your flowing waaaay more CFM on the intake valve events, then its time to talk intake upgrades.

[ChuckLee]

BTR stage 3 is a great and very common cam kit to go with.

[Lookin4the1]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

You aren't moving enough air volume to justify a new intake (I assume you mean intake manifold) and throttle body. You'll actually kill your power by doing those mods too early.

1. Good exhaust manifolds
2. Tune
3. Cam upgrade
4. Heads if you have the budget
5. Anything else

You won't take advantage of the power to be made, if you don't have a good header/exhaust. If you do have budget for heads, decide on the heads BEFORE spec'ing the cam.

I've seen more than my share of stock-ish setups having their owners buy big FAST intake mani/TB setups and LOSE 10-15 horsepower and most of their response. Don't buy a hi ram or performer for the same reason. Once your flowing waaaay more CFM on the intake valve events, then its time to talk intake upgrades.

I went with Patriot headers for their style and fitment. I swapped the cam yesterday and went to 317's with PAC 1219 springs. a tune is also coming up as soon as it starts running. i've yet to tighten down the rockers (i have to replace the rocker plate up under there.)

I'm also thinking of a torque converter, but i'm unsure of the correct stall. I'mma need help with that soon. I should be ordering things tomorrow or sunday.

I've also thought of blending the heads but is that overkill?

I'm too far now to go back so i've went from building a 49 GMC to building a rolling chassis with a 6.0 lq4 and the truck has taken a back seat.

[71cadc10]

Your pushrod length should end up somewhere 7.325 to 7.400....I'd suggest getting a checking pushrod for $20, and measuring exactly what you need...then order 3/8 diameter .080 wall from Trend or similar.

convertor for that cam 2800 min to 3200 ought to do it

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Lookin4the1

I went with Patriot headers for their style and fitment. I swapped the cam yesterday and went to 317's with PAC 1219 springs. a tune is also coming up as soon as it starts running. i've yet to tighten down the rockers (i have to replace the rocker plate up under there.)

I'm also thinking of a torque converter, but i'm unsure of the correct stall. I'mma need help with that soon. I should be ordering things tomorrow or sunday.

I've also thought of blending the heads but is that overkill?

I'm too far now to go back so i've went from building a 49 GMC to building a rolling chassis with a 6.0 lq4 and the truck has taken a back seat.

PR's are 7.4 on a stock head and deck geometry.

Blending the heads? Meh. Its worth doing if your having the heads ported, but its a bunch of work for no real power gain. 317's have a relatively good casting, so your not seeing huge advantages from it. If your build a max effort build, then possibly. The reality is you can spend 10 hours "blending" the heads and not end up with anything better than you started.

I had blendwork done when I got my ported heads made, but that was after a VERY aggressive hand port from an icon with 40+ years as an automotive race machinist.

Converter will depend on the expected powerband. Most swap trucks end up 32-3600, with the "race" guys going a bit higher and dealing with heat, and the daily driven guys going in the 2800 range to keep it easy in traffic.

[Lookin4the1]

torque converter bought. turn around on it is a week and a half to two weeks. found a lot of options, but spent the extra money on a circle D for the warranty and reputation. I'll be putting it back together and in the truck over the next month and hopefully firing on new years day.