Transporting recently sandblasted frame.

[focusedontheprize]

The time is finally here. We are heading to Texas in the next few weeks and are finally packing up. I recently had the frame on my 1965 Chevy sandblasted and have been working on it for the past couple weeks (i.e. filling holes, mocking up the fuel tank). I still have quite a bit of work to do on it.

I need to transport the truck from California to Texas behind the moving truck on an open trailer. Once I get it there - it will go into the garage.

My question is, can I get away with just bolting the cab and front sheetmetal on the bare frame and bring it down? If I have to put it in primer I will, however I would really like to prevent it if I can.

Thoughts?

[spacedebris]

I dont see any issues with doing that. If your worried about flash rust or something, just wipe it down with WD-40, bolt your sheetmetal to it, load it on the trailer, then cover with a good heavy duty tarp. I prefer canvas, I picked up a few from a flatbed trucking company. A bit pricey but worth it IMO. But a good quality plastic tarp will work, just make sure to place cardboard over any sharp corners or edges first. It should make it ok that way.

[focusedontheprize]

Originally Posted by spacedebris

I dont see any issues with doing that. If your worried about flash rust or something, just wipe it down with WD-40, bolt your sheetmetal to it, load it on the trailer, then cover with a good heavy duty tarp. I prefer canvas, I picked up a few from a flatbed trucking company. A bit pricey but worth it IMO. But a good quality plastic tarp will work, just make sure to place cardboard over any sharp corners or edges first. It should make it ok that way.

Thanks Spacedebris. I never have heard the WD40 trick before. Yes, it was the flash rust I was mostly concerned with until I can get it into the garage.

[Mathew21]

Gibbs penetrating oil is another great way to stop flash rust. I buy it from amazon.

Here's some information on it.
http://www.getgibbs.com/how-to-prepa...nt-with-gibbs/

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Gibbs-Brand-L.../dp/B00AFJXIJQ

[oem4me]

Seems to me that dealing with flash rust might be less work than dealing with painting over an oil fouled surface. ??

[Classic v6 GMC's]

How about acid etching.

[vin63]

Spray it down with Gibbs Brand or Kroil.

[Captainfab]

This

Originally Posted by oem4me

Seems to me that dealing with flash rust might be less work than dealing with painting over an oil fouled surface. ??

Unless you end up driving thru a rain storm, I would just leave it as is. I certainly would not wipe it down with WD 40. You will have a very difficult time getting all of it off of the frame and getting a decent paint job when the time comes. WD 40 has silicone in it. I don't know about Gibbs or Kroil.

[bj383ss]

Where are you moving in TX? Things don't hardly rust in the CTX. I have had bare parts in the garage for years and hardly any flash rust. I agree with the just cleaning the flash rust and not putting any chemicals. Or shoot it with some etching primer rattle can.

Bret

[siggyfreud]

I agree with those that say removing the oil before painting is going to be a lot more work than removing flash rust. Unless it rains a good bit the air movement around the open frame will help keep it dry.

[Indian113]

But on the other hand if your going to be Near the coast it will rust REAL fast. I would leave it open and maybe buy a HF blaster to clean it off with if needed. Besides a guy can't have too many TOOLS

[Rogue]

Even if you touched it with bare hands it will rust.
I would have done my fab work, then blasted and sealed/painted it.

[padresag]

I would wrap it good and then mount your body and box. put the bolts thru the plastic. there is a lot of road grime and crap. you can't predict sometimes what you have to drive thru. or prime it. it is not a perfect world sometimes
ron

[cooperhw]

I would spray it with epoxy primer myself. Even if it gets scratched and has to be re-sprayed at some time, no problem.
I would shy away from anything that will prevent paint sticking in the future. Rather deal with surface rust than fish eyes.
Just my $0.02.

[focusedontheprize]

Thanks everyone. We are moving to Austin, TX.

I started to think about it more Tuesday and thought it would be a better idea to actually prep the frame and put a "light" coat of Rusto-leum rattle can primer on it. It is in the garage still curing and I will start assembling it on Sunday.

My goal with the primer is to just hold it over until I strip it all off and shoot the black epoxy (in California I could not buy the epoxy I like due to environmental issues which is not the case in Texas).

I will say the frame looks 100x better with it being in a uniform color and all the holes filled in the frame.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Like said above... I would wrap it with a big roll of plastic wrap. You know, the stuff the movers use. It sticks to itself and is easy to remove with a utility knife.

[vin63]

If you seal the primer, then that would work. If you don't seal it, then it can be worse than leaving it bare. If your plan is to completely chemical strip and/or blast the frame prior to paint, then it doesn't matter too much how you transport the frame.

[bj383ss]

Originally Posted by focusedontheprize

Thanks everyone. We are moving to Austin, TX.

I started to think about it more Tuesday and thought it would be a better idea to actually prep the frame and put a "light" coat of Rusto-leum rattle can primer on it. It is in the garage still curing and I will start assembling it on Sunday.

My goal with the primer is to just hold it over until I strip it all off and shoot the black epoxy (in California I could not buy the epoxy I like due to environmental issues which is not the case in Texas).

I will say the frame looks 100x better with it being in a uniform color and all the holes filled in the frame.

Give me a shout when you get all moved and settled in. Like to add another local truck buddy.

Bret