6 lug rotors and drop spindles

[Slammed96]

Been looking around and can't find a definitive answer to this. I'm looking at a set of the CPP 6 lug 1.25" rotors on summit, and was wondering if they will work with any 73-87 style drop spindle set up for 1.25"thick rotors. I've been told CPP rotors will ONLY work with their spindles, but have also heard otherwise. Can anyone verify?

[64shortbox]

Yes, the CPP rotors will work with any drop spindle. My understanding is CPP buys their rotors from a standard 5 lug rotor supplier like Cardone but gets them un-drilled for for the lugs. They then have them drilled for 6 lug applications. This also means that the bearings & races are the same for standard spindles. Also CPP's drop spindles don't have a warning that they Won't Work with standard 5 lug 1 1/4" rotors. There're lots of guys that run the CPP drop spindles with standard 5 lug rotors.

I bought both my drop spindles & 6 lug rotors from Summit. When I bought mine several years ago Summit didn't list who the manufacturer was of either the rotors or spindles. To my surprise both the rotors & drop spindles were CPP. My old 5 lug 1 1/4" rotors fit fine on my CPP drop spindles. I did it just as a test fit in case I ever decided to go to a 5 lug rim like a Corvette rim etc.

I'm not sure how far along you are with your swap but when I did mine I got EVERYTHING from the donor truck. The vacuum booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve, ALL hard brake lines Everything! I was able to use everything from the 73 donor truck. I did purchase Captainfab's booster bracket and I had to make a bracket for the proportioning valve and slightly tweak the hard lines to get everything to fit but it worked out great. There was even a hole in the frame where the hard lines went through the frame for the flex hoses. I just had to get a 5/8 - 18 jamb nut for the flex brake line. I'm CHEAP!

Here's a couple of links for your review:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=322587

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=6+lug+rotors

[Slammed96]

Awesome! Thanks bud! Right now I'm not too deep, still gathering parts for the time being.

[64shortbox]

Glad to help! If you have ANY questions no matter how small please feel free to ask. Also if you're looking for he least expensive way to get something done let me know - I'm the Cheapest SOB you will ever meet in your life. There are things I don't skimp on though - my vacuum bracket and power steering bracket came from Captainfab. Excellent pieces and a very reasonable price. My ball joints are Raybestos professional Grade from Rock Auto. Would you trust your life on a $12.00 ball joint from China? As I stated earlier I try and use Factory stuff no matter what brand so once I make a modification to adapt it I know I can get an Exact Replacement piece that will bolt up - makes a BIG difference if you're 100 miles from home. If you want pictures of Anything just let me know I'll be more than happy to oblige. Here's some more pics of some of my mods just to give you some of my ideas and ideas I've blatantly Stole from other members of this site.

The first pic is a 73 C-10 brake pedal mod along with a 72 C-10 gas pedal mod Since I have disc Brakes I wanted the truck to look the part. The brake pedal locks crooked in the pic but believe me it's square & level.

The second pic is where the 73 C-10 hard line goes through the factory punched oblong hole (passenger side) - you can also see my 5/8 - 10 jamb nut I was telling you about.

The 3rd pic is of the factory oblong hole that's already punched in the frame (drivers side)

The 4th pic is right after yanked the motor and trans and dropped the original drum manual steering set up. Here's another tip for you. I'm sure you read you need to oblong a couple of mounting holes in the frame of your truck to mount the 73-87 cross member - true. I mounted & tightened down the cross member where the holes lined up. On the ones that didn't line up I got a 25/64" drill bit and from the engine side drilled through the 7/16" x 20 welded nuts. The nuts will keep the drill bit from wandering off and the 25/64" drill bit is what you use when drilling to tap for a 7/16 -20 bolt. I then ran a 7/16-20 tap through the nut from the engine side just to chase the threads and make it easier to start the bolts from the wheel opening side.

Pic #5 just shows my 72 Chevy van tilt I got off eBay for $119.00 including shipping. It also shows the brown Olds 442 steering wheel - I later replaced it with a billet flamed wheel my wife bought me for Christmas. The chrome A/C vents are from a 64 Chrysler New Yorker - 1/2 price day at the local Pick N Pull for $9.00 each. I didn't like the cheep plastic A/C vents that Vintage Air supplied.

As I said I like using OEM stuff no matter if its GM, AMC, Chrysler, Ford or even Volvo because I know I'll be able to get an exact replacement.

Future plans call for installing a pedal type emergency brake from a 72 Caddy. Why a Caddy E brake pedal assembly? Because when I drop my truck into gear whether Drive or Reverse it will release automatically and since my tilt column is factory GM the special Caddy Neutral Safety switch bolted right up. Yeah, I got the easy part done. I still need to mount the Caddy E brake pedal assembly and run the vacuum lines. A 72 Caddy uses vacuum to release the brake. I will NEVER forget to release the E brake ever again!

[verdell]

I bought CPP/Western Chassis dropped spindles and 6-lug rotors too and switched to over the counter 1.25" 5-lug rotors. No issues either.

[Slammed96]

Sweet deal! Thanks a ton for the info guys! I already have a set 73-87 a-arms that I plan to rebuild with new ball joints and bushings. Then swap them in with a nice set of drop spindles and springs. 6 lug disk swap it so I can actually stop when need be, and the rest is history!