Needing a driveshaft

[cdog73]

Was wondering what my options are for a driveshaft for my new 5.3 swap in my 1971 SWB 2 wheel drive C10. Before you say mine will work, understand that the original shaft was shortened when it had the S-10 5 speed in it, making it to short now. I know an original shaft would be best, but what other oem shafts will work. I'm trying to make this easy on my wallet, so finding a used shaft and having it shortened and balanced would be the most cost efficient, since a new built shaft is between 3 and 400 dollars. Please help guys, I need a shaft asap so I can do my exhaust and get this thing back on the road. Thanks

[crazy longhorn]

There are too many variables on that ls swap, (as far as engine position). I suggest that you slide the slip yolk into the trans (to the bottom), mark it with a sharpie, then slide it out 3/4" (with the weight on the wheels). Then you can bolt the rear u-joint to the diff, & measure center to center on the caps to get the lenght that you need for your combo. After that, you can hit the boneyards, & find something to work for you (shorten & balance). best of fun,longhorn

[Willie Makeit]

like crazy stated above, get motor, trans and rear end in their final position then measure from yoke u-joint centerline to yoke u-joint centerline.

i got lucky and found one at a local salvage yard that was the exact length I needed. you can always buy one a bit long and have it shortened.

[darrellyates]

Nobody will believe this, however I got a boneyard 5.3/4L60E out of 2004 Tahoe 2WD. I even picked up the driveshaft (just to get the trans yoke). It was the exact correct length. All I had to do was have the rear connection changed for the differential, and I could have used it. Due to extreme lowering, and the overall size of the factory shaft, I wound up making a new one. However, the 2004 Short 2WD Tahoe one fit my '68 SWB. Of course, that was switching out the carrier bearing for a one piece driveshaft as well. Hope that helps....

[darrellyates]

However, the 2004 Short 2WD Tahoe one fit my '68 SWB. Of course, that was switching out the carrier bearing for a one piece driveshaft as well. Hope that helps....[/QUOTE]

[jessemthompson]

Originally Posted by darrellyates

Nobody will believe this, however I got a boneyard 5.3/4L60E out of 2004 Tahoe 2WD. I even picked up the driveshaft (just to get the trans yoke). It was the exact correct length. All I had to do was have the rear connection changed for the differential, and I could have used it. Due to extreme lowering, and the overall size of the factory shaft, I wound up making a new one. However, the 2004 Short 2WD Tahoe one fit my '68 SWB. Of course, that was switching out the carrier bearing for a one piece driveshaft as well. Hope that helps....

My 5.3 swap came out of an 07 surburban. They sent the driveshaft with the engine and trans and it was the perfect length as well. I had to change out the carrier bearing to make it work, but it's still in there and working great.

[rctrooper1]

What exactly was changed to make the driveshaft work? Does the u joint from the Tahoe fit on the rear differential? Any help is appreciated

Jz

[darrellyates]

Originally Posted by rctrooper1

What exactly was changed to make the driveshaft work? Does the u joint from the Tahoe fit on the rear differential? Any help is appreciated

Jz

Ok, I changed several things. First of all, the drive shaft shop has U-Joints that will make the different sized ends (yokes) go together. The are adaptive U-Joints. However, if you notice the size of the driveshaft going thru the crossmember, I was afraid it was too large and that travel of the driveshaft as the rear end moved would make it hit. I started with CPP drop spindles and 4" lowering springs in the back with an adjustable panhard bar. I would up lowering it even further later. I just had him make a smaller diameter steel shaft, with the correct ends to fit the yoke from the 4L60E, and the rear differential connection. However, you could have simply used an adaptive U Joint and ran the stock driveshaft.

Hope that helps!

[rctrooper1]

I think I understand. I'm not trying to go with a custom shaft so in a sense I just need and adaptive u joint that will fit the tahoe end of the driveshaft and the differential C10 connection. Do you happen to know the part number or specs I need to look for on an adaptive u joint?

Thanks again!

I appreciate your help

Jz

[darrellyates]

[QUOTE=rctrooper1;7845677]I think I understand. I'm not trying to go with a custom shaft so in a sense I just need and adaptive u joint that will fit the tahoe end of the driveshaft and the differential C10 connection. Do you happen to know the part number or specs I need to look for on an adaptive u joint?

Thanks again!

I appreciate your help

Sorry, I don't remember the sizes. You just have to measure either the old U Joints, or there are instructions on how to measure the yoke on-line. Just google "how to measure U Joint" and you'll get instructions. They make them for all different sizes, I was shown at the drive shaft shop, Clinard's in Nashville. Since I wanted the clearance, I had one made. Wasn't expensive. I'm sorry, I don't remember the sizes. Someone has to have a better memory than I do for that.

Hope I have been some help even if I can't remember the sizes.

[rctrooper1]

No problem. Thanks again!

Jz

[crazy longhorn]

I have done many conversion joints over the yrs.... Dont ask the parts house guy to figure it, take the 2 joints to the drive line shop & show them what you need to swap to They will set you up with the info/proper parts....Longhorn

[rctrooper1]

Finally got the 2004 DS in place. Used Moog 372 combination U joints. Perfect fit.

Thank you all for the help!

Jz