order to assemble front sheet metal?

[freak]

What's the best way to assemble the front end sheet metal. Everything is off. Start with radiator support, then ???, then ???, then ???

[midniteblues]

Rad support first.
Then each fender bolted on loosely
Get the Grill and associated pieces in there.
Inner fenders wells.
Hood
Cowl
Then go around and align and snug everything.

[StingRay]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

Rad support first.
Then each fender bolted on loosely
Get the Grill and associated pieces in there.
Inner fenders wells.
Hood
Cowl
Then go around and align and snug everything.

Make sure the doors are properly aligned first but yup what he said.

[freak]

Originally Posted by StingRay

Make sure the doors are properly aligned first but yup what he said.

They didn't fit great before I started and now it's compounded by the fact that I put in a full floor pan. Worked on it last night and it's better though. Hopefully the rockers will be easier.

[hugger6933]

To put on rockers, the fenders need to be off. I hope I didn't just spit in your oatmeal.[ruin your day] I would hate for you to spend a lot of time putting on the front then have to take it right back off.
By the way to get the front aligned better [or at all] you probably need fresh cab and front mounts.

[freak]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

To put on rockers, the fenders need to be off. I hope I didn't just spit in your oatmeal.[ruin your day] I would hate for you to spend a lot of time putting on the front then have to take it right back off.
By the way to get the front aligned better [or at all] you probably need fresh cab and front mounts.

If you look back and read the thread you'll see that everything is off and I installed an entire new floor pan.

[GASoline71]

Just start bolting stuff together. You'll immediately figure out what need to go before the other.

Gary

[StingRay]

Originally Posted by freak

They didn't fit great before I started and now it's compounded by the fact that I put in a full floor pan. Worked on it last night and it's better though. Hopefully the rockers will be easier.

Once again make sure you have your doors where you like them before making the the rockers permanent. Too many have found out later that their doors won't close. Everything is centered around door fit. I screw and tack everything and assemble of the way to the front to check fit before I weld anything. It's a lot of work but it's the only way to get nice gaps. That includes the hood and cowl panel too.

[cypressbog]

I hope you welded braces into the door opening from front to rear before all that floor and rocker work. The cabs have a tendacy to warp, spread open when that much structure is removed.

[StingRay]

Originally Posted by cypressbog

I hope you welded braces into the door opening from front to rear before all that floor and rocker work. The cabs have a tendacy to warp, spread open when that much structure is removed.

I found that the outer edge of the B pillar springs back even when they are rusty before you fix them. It results in a bad gap at the back edge of the door. The rocker alignment pays the price too where it meets the B pillar. That kind of error has a domino effect all of the way through all the panel alignment. I made up a lever contraption to realign the B pillar before welding it all back together.

[freak]

Originally Posted by cypressbog

I hope you welded braces into the door opening from front to rear before all that floor and rocker work. The cabs have a tendacy to warp, spread open when that much structure is removed.

I did.

[In The Ten Ring]

I was told the front cab bolts have to be out. Is that you guys' experience also?

[GASoline71]

I've pulled off a lot of these front clips. Either piece by piece or one whole unit. Never had to remove front cab bolts.

Gary

[freak]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I was told the front cab bolts have to be out. Is that you guys' experience also?

No they don't have to be out. They're not in the way at all.

[Ironangel]

You do not have to pull the cab support bolts! But you do want to have them loose, front and rear especially if you've replaced the floor pan(s). Bolts stuck but loose, same way with the radiator support bolts, leave them loose until you've fitted the fenders, inner fenders and doors. Keep in mind the further back your cab is located the tighter the gap to the bed, thats a good thing. You also leave plenty of relief for the fenders and doors by leaving the cab support bolts loose. Hopefully you've replaced or still have solid cab supports and support bushings so bed alingment will be good when it goes on. Before you tighten the fender bolts to the radiator support, make sure your width is good for the hood, a little at a time front to rear. Tight hinges with good strong springs are key to fitting the hood correctly. Dont be afraid to use body washers at the rear of the fenders, door hinges and strikers, and the cowl to get a good final fit up and keep track of where washers are used if you haven't done so already...~Ghostrider~

[Nick2x2x]

I have a bare frame not sure where to start with mine suspension so I ca roll it around or cab and motor and wiring?

[PanelDeland]

Originally Posted by Nick2x2x

I have a bare frame not sure where to start with mine suspension so I ca roll it around or cab and motor and wiring?

Suspension first so you can get everything, Then motor, cab and the rest.