Drive shaft for '65 long bed.

['65 chevy lover]

I'm to the point that I'm fixing to get driveshaft made for my ,'65 LWB. First question is, being a long bed, do I have too make it a two piece (like the original truck) or can I make a one piece. The truck has 2.5" drop spindles in front and, 2" drop springs in the back. Also, what kind of price should I expect to pay. Of course I know that the kind of metal that is used and, whether or not its one piece or two will make a difference.
Thanks in advance!

[66 C10 383]

I've got a 66 long bed and I'm in the same boat, no usable driveshaft. Pricewise, I have no idea as differant shops will be differant prices.

A 2 pc driveshaft will be stronger than a single long driveshaft, the single may have a tendancy to wobble in the unsupported middle unless it's of a very large diameter. Unless modified, the trailing arm mount crossmember where the driveshaft goes through won't accept a shaft that big.

Since you are having one made, I have it made in the HD carrier bearing version. The LD mount hangs from above the driveshaft and the HD carrier bearing mounts under the driveshaft.

[jayoldschool]

If I was building a LWB and didn't have a shaft, and especially if it was modded... I would take a shaft from a late model LWB/extended cab and have it shortened and have the shop put the correct conversion yokes on it. Those new shafts are beautiful big aluminum pieces. You need a good driveline shop that can do aluminum shafts. Most cities have truck driveline shops.

[Captainfab]

The bad reputation of the 2 piece driveshafts stems from the light duty 2 piece version, which I would never use. On a long bed I would use a HD 2 piece driveshaft with the HD carrier bearing. With that said, it is much less money to have a driveshaft shortened than is it to have one lengthened or a complete new one made.