Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK

[Steve Van Gent]

So I have been wanted to put in power windows in my 65; Cost has been big factor. The kit from nu-relics is $600 for hardware. Electric Life, Auto-loc, is similar. I would rather spend less and use extra money for advanced features for window control instead.

I am going to start with regulator and work toward retro handle.

GOALS FOR REGULATOR-

1. Must be similar quality as Nu-relics.
2. Should be using off the shelf parts or old OEM parts from truck.
3. Must be bolt in, should not have to hack up doors to make it work.
4. Should be low cost.

While studying current power window options, I notice the that all the motors used in kits for our trucks seem to be off the shelf bolt on. I have discovered a motor that seems to be somewhat universal; Dorman Power Window Motors 742-150. about $24 bucks. I also think I can make a small modification to a manual regulator and bolt this motor directly in place of manual crank handle, and I suspect the teeth will mesh exactly.

To this end, I ordered a new motor and new regulator and will video my effort to make my own power window regulator.

If this works, one would be able to take the existing manual regulator out of their door, modify it slightly and bolt new motor on, total cost of $24 bucks per side. Forward looking, I think I can take the splined shaft assembly from that is removed from OEM regulator, modify it slightly, and make a retro power switch for OEM window crank.

Stay tuned!

[63frankintruck]

Originally Posted by Steve Van Gent

So I have been wanted to put in power windows in my 65; Cost has been big factor. The kit from nu-relics is $600 for hardware. Electric Life, Auto-loc, is similar. I would rather spend less and use extra money for advanced features for window control instead.

I am going to start with regulator and work toward retro handle.

GOALS FOR REGULATOR-

1. Must be similar quality as Nu-relics.
2. Should be using off the shelf parts or old OEM parts from truck.
3. Must be bolt in, should not have to hack up doors to make it work.
4. Should be low cost.

While studying current power window options, I notice the that all the motors used in kits for our trucks seem to be off the shelf bolt on. I have discovered a motor that seems to be somewhat universal; Dorman Power Window Motors 742-150. about $24 bucks. I also think I can make a small modification to a manual regulator and bolt this motor directly in place of manual crank handle, and I suspect the teeth will mesh exactly.

To this end, I ordered a new motor and new regulator and will video my effort to make my own power window regulator.

If this works, one would be able to take the existing manual regulator out of their door, modify it slightly and bolt new motor on, total cost of $24 bucks per side. Forward looking, I think I can take the splined shaft assembly from that is removed from OEM regulator, modify it slightly, and make a retro power switch for OEM window crank.

Stay tuned!

Very interesting and ingenious!

[Steve Van Gent]

UPDATE: Sorry, been pretty busy. Just got back from SEMA show, have little time to post. SEE PICS: Got new regulator, new motor. Using trusty die grinder and cutting blade, removed old gear and protection plate. As soon as I saw gear, I knew it was a non-starter for this method. The new power motor gear was much finer pitch than the old 64-66 sector (for those that do not know, sector is the part with teeth that the gear mates with). THis is unfortunate, as the power motor and mount itself are spectacular. Would have made a great solution.

All this said, I am not finished yet. Here is some thoughts;

NEXT STEPS:

OPTION 1: I could take a sector from a 85-92 chevy truck, cut off and rivit to old 64 sector, making new sector proud with repect to old sector. THis would make the correct pitch teeth present to new power motor. this option is not very attractive to me, as would kill off most DIY people.

OPTION 2: Find power window motor with correct gear, correct pitch. Oddly enough, at SEMA, I found all Chinese vendors in the AAPEX hall that did power window regulators.

[Steve Van Gent]

Take a look at motors at AAPEX;

[The Rocknrod]

Watching closely

Is this option #1? If it is, does it fit properly in the door? and if so - could you go over that with a bit more detail when you have the time, it looks cool.

[Steve Van Gent]

It fits in door fine, but the issue is the gear teeth pitch is wrong. The gear will not mesh with the sector.

If I find a motor with gear that fits the 64-66 sector, then becomes very easy. My gut feeling is this black motor will work. THe only concern is if the gear has good bearing below it. If not, will just fail quickly. Note the hole down the gear...I bet the gear needs a shaft with bushing to hold it in place.

[Steve Van Gent]

Take a look at the manual gear I pulled from the regulator. Note the pitch of the teeth and compare with black colored motor.

[The Rocknrod]

Yes I see, not a good match. Never thought about the need for a shaft with bushing on the black motor, good call. How do you find out for sure?
Six tooth type?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Windo...-/231002074371

[Steve Van Gent]

I think there is only one way to know for sure, buy and try. I will work my way through this, may be slow.

The motor you show link to above might be candidate; For this one, I think I may be able to go to local parts house, have counter guy pull one out and do a dry fit. Again, the teeth must mesh well with sector to have a winner.

[Steve Van Gent]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Watching closely

Is this option #1? If it is, does it fit properly in the door? and if so - could you go over that with a bit more detail when you have the time, it looks cool.

Sorry, did not read this closely. HEre is a closeup to illistrate the problem with plan A. Note the fine pitch on the motor will not mesh with the 64-66 sector. Teeth wont fit.

[Captainfab]

I think one of the reasons for the finer toothed sector gear is to slow down the action of the regulator with the given speed of the motor. I'm thinking that if you were to fit a coarser tooth gear on the sector shaft, the window may travel too fast. It might be better to see about changing the driven 'gear'. Of course that is all relative to the speed of a given motor.

[Sledgebone]

Look at a 1998 Cadillac Eldorado motor. Just replaced one and the gearing looks similar.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...dow+motor,1516

[Steve Van Gent]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I think one of the reasons for the finer toothed sector gear is to slow down the action of the regulator with the given speed of the motor. I'm thinking that if you were to fit a coarser tooth gear on the sector shaft, the window may travel too fast. It might be better to see about changing the driven 'gear'. Of course that is all relative to the speed of a given motor.

I'm not sure that is true. I think the speed of glass is a case of the diameter of the gear (or radius), speed of that gear (I.E. the worm gear inside pitch). In other words, lets take an extreme case-if two separate gears both turn 10RPM, but one gear is 2 inches in diameter, one gear is 12 inches in diameter, the bigger gear will be slower regardless of pitch of teeth or sector...

Another way to look at it; if the gear were unrolled and laid flat, it would have a fixed length (2 * Pi * R). the travel of the sector per one revolution of the gear would be that length, regardless of the pitch.

[Captainfab]

I disagree. Lets assume that the pitch is the same on both the 2" diameter gear, the 12" diameter gear and the driven gear. And lets assume that the driven gear has a diameter of 12". If the 2" diameter gear turns 10 rpm, the driven gear will turn 1.66 rpm. If the 12" diameter gear turns 10 rpm the driven gear will turn 10 rpm.

[urmyboyblue]

Gear pitch (teeth per linear inch of gear) has to do with power transmission. The greater the pitch, the larger the tooth and the more power that can be transmitted. Gear pitch has nothing to do with gear reduction- that is the result of pitch diameters of gears. If gear A has a pitch diameter of 12" and gear B has a pitch diameter of 2", the ratio is 6:1 (A:B). So every time A rotates, B rotates 6 times. Changing the gear pitch of gear B while keeping the pitch diameter the same has no effect on ratio, but it means the teeth won't mesh right. IF you can get them to work together, they will eat each other up quickly.

With two gears of the same pitch, the number of teeth on each gear is directly proportional to the pitch diameter (via the gear pitch). So you can divide the number of teeth on one gear by the number of teeth on the other gear and find the gear ratio. BUT this only works if both have the same gear pitch.

It seems like JC Whitney used to sell a universal bolt on kit for power windows in a car with manual windows. It had a coupler on the lift motor shaft that attached to the stem that the window crank normally attaches to. Don't know if they still make it. The motor mounted to the door panel.

[sdwolff98]

subscribed there is another thread where someone did something Similar Steve will see if I can find the thread again. ahhhh here it is
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317828
he list a motor out of an astro can you might check into?

Sean
The only thing I have used a window motor for so far is my spare tire lift lol. I would love to do power windows in my burb eventually

[Steve Van Gent]

Well, the price is right; only about $20. http://www.carparts.com/details/Chev...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

I will order one and try...

[Steve Van Gent]

Here is another way to look at it; lets say it there was a toothless wheel (had some kind on non-skid on surface for traction) against a shaft that moves linear direction; as the wheel moved, the shaft would move the same distance as the wheel moved (2*pi*r). Teeth pitch is not a factor.

[raidmagic]

Any updates on this project?

[Steve Van Gent]

FUnny you should ask! yes, just got new motor. Good news, bad news.

First good news. the gears appear to match exactly! Also, this motor is exactly same as other motor I purchased except the gear pitch AND is missing sector guide/spacer. This is bad news, that means I need to purchase BOTH motors for each window I want to modify.

[Steve Van Gent]

The spacer that was included in the other motor is as below; It performs few things:1. correct spacing between motor and regulator, 2. provides correct hole placement that allows easy way to drill and attach screws to regulator, 3. provides guide for the sector to travel in and be captured. 4. is the outside bushing for motor/gear shaft to ride in.

Blue holes are where the motor attaches. The red is holes that will need to be drilled into regulator and mounted. Blue arrow shows where the sector and teeth will travel.

We will need this spacer to proceed. I will get other one back and show update when I get them married together.

ALL IN ALL, great news!

[The Rocknrod]

Coolio Julio

[raidmagic]

Interesting. Thanks.

[61K10]

Looks good. You gonna post up the motor #'s when done? I like building stuff and might give it a try.

[Steve Van Gent]

Originally Posted by 61K10

Looks good. You gonna post up the motor #'s when done? I like building stuff and might give it a try.

Yes, so far this is correct motor.

http://www.carparts.com/details/Chev...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

the spacer is different story. I think we may need to buy 2 motors to get correct spacer and correct tooth motor! however, still way cheaper than buying NuRelics regulator! Maybe can sell second motor off...