LS and T56 with stock crossmember?

[BaroneDog]

For those of you that have a T56/LS combo: Did you have enough clearance to leave the stock crossmember in place? I asked this question in my build thread but got no response so thought I would try the LS Swap specific forum as well. More details on my setup and photo here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...07#post8091007

Much appreciated!

[Joe pa]

Mine is stock but is notched out to sit lower. I can get some pics of you need

[NC_John]

Mine originally had a 3 spd saginaw so no rear crossmember so i just bought a cpp tubular one. I think it was less than $100. Works great. Of course the nightmare of trying to remove your original one with rivets might be what you are trying to avoid....

[BaroneDog]

Originally Posted by NC_John

Mine originally had a 3 spd saginaw so no rear crossmember so i just bought a cpp tubular one. I think it was less than $100. Works great. Of course the nightmare of trying to remove your original one with rivets might be what you are trying to avoid....

Thanks. Just to clarify, I have an aftermarket crossmember that will be used to support the rear of the T56. As you implied above, i would prefer to not have to also remove the stock crossmember which is near the bell housing and rivited. Full details and pictures are in my build thread linked above. It looks like it will clear but just hoping to get confirmation from someone who has done it already to be sure. thanks!

[BaroneDog]

Originally Posted by Joe pa

Mine is stock but is notched out to sit lower. I can get some pics of you need

Thanks for the reply. Not sure I understand. Did you modify and relocate the stock crossmember to support the T56? Thanks.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by BaroneDog

Thanks. Just to clarify, I have an aftermarket crossmember that will be used to support the rear of the T56. As you implied above, i would prefer to not have to also remove the stock crossmember which is near the bell housing and rivited. Full details and pictures are in my build thread linked above. It looks like it will clear but just hoping to get confirmation from someone who has done it already to be sure. thanks!

I didnt try to fit the transmission that way. I removed that forward crossmember. It was a pain to remove (ended up nearly cutting it in half to work it out) but it was worth it. It really makes exhaust routing a lot cleaner as you dont need that kickout on the driver side any longer.

[Captainfab]

It is a bit of a PITA to remove all of the rivets with the cab on the frame, to get it all removed. I always recommend removing the bellhousing crossmember if you are not going to be using it to support the original bellhousing. It is so much easier to work on your truck with it not in the way if it is not needed. I have seen some guys just cut it off flush with the frame rail and leave the rivets and small pieces attached to the frame.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by BaroneDog

For those of you that have a T56/LS combo: Did you have enough clearance to leave the stock crossmember in place? I asked this question in my build thread but got no response so thought I would try the LS Swap specific forum as well. More details on my setup and photo here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...07#post8091007

Much appreciated!

I have the same set up. I used my original automatic cross member. Got rid of the lower plates and it works perfect there were even holes in my frame already there. I did have to shorten my drive shaft. I suggest going with captain fab for the hyd clutch set up, I have it and it works Perfect. This is the easiest and best swap I've eve done. It's a lot of fun to drive

[BaroneDog]

Originally Posted by NC_John

I didnt try to fit the transmission that way. I removed that forward crossmember. It was a pain to remove (ended up nearly cutting it in half to work it out) but it was worth it. It really makes exhaust routing a lot cleaner as you dont need that kickout on the driver side any longer.

Looks like I will likely be doing exactly what you an CaptainFab recommended. Last night, when test fitting my Throley headers, I noticed that the drivers side header collector points directly towards the stock crossmemeber. There is no way I can use those headers with the stock crossmemember still in place, so I guess it is coming out! I might start by just cutting it out flush like CaptainFab mentioned.

Thanks for the advice guys!

[BaroneDog]

Originally Posted by NC_John

I didnt try to fit the transmission that way. I removed that forward crossmember. It was a pain to remove (ended up nearly cutting it in half to work it out) but it was worth it. It really makes exhaust routing a lot cleaner as you dont need that kickout on the driver side any longer.

Any chance you recall what shift position you used on your T56 (forward, mid, or rear)? I was taking some measurements on my newly acquired T56 last night and I fear the shift position is too far forward. The vendor put a forward shift kit on it because I have a bench seat, but I think it will cause me to have to reach really far forward and might even interfere with the dash. Thanks.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by BaroneDog

Any chance you recall what shift position you used on your T56 (forward, mid, or rear)? I was taking some measurements on my newly acquired T56 last night and I fear the shift position is too far forward. The vendor put a forward shift kit on it because I have a bench seat, but I think it will cause me to have to reach really far forward and might even interfere with the dash. Thanks.

I used the forward position (where the red rag is stuffed into the top of the transmission). I don't think my model had three options.



I am currently playing around with shifter options. I had an old school ridiculously long one (an original 4 speed shifter stretched out some more) and as cool as it looked, the shifts took too long (very long throw). I have a 12" shifter on there now but it is too short and doesn't feel natural to grab. I think a 14" might be right.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by BaroneDog

Looks like I will likely be doing exactly what you an CaptainFab recommended. Last night, when test fitting my Throley headers, I noticed that the drivers side header collector points directly towards the stock crossmemeber. There is no way I can use those headers with the stock crossmemember still in place, so I guess it is coming out! I might start by just cutting it out flush like CaptainFab mentioned.

Thanks for the advice guys!

You don't need to cut it flush. I used an angle grinder and a dremel on the rivets and got it out. I did have to cut it nearly in half and use a 3 lb sledge hammer to actually get it out of the frame though.

[BaroneDog]

Originally Posted by NC_John

I used the forward position (where the red rag is stuffed into the top of the transmission). I don't think my model had three options.
I am currently playing around with shifter options. I had an old school ridiculously long one (an original 4 speed shifter stretched out some more) and as cool as it looked, the shifts took too long (very long throw). I have a 12" shifter on there now but it is too short and doesn't feel natural to grab. I think a 14" might be right.

That is the same forward position as my shifter. Any chance you have a photo or could describe where your shifter exits on the floor of your truck? I think mine would require an oddly shaped shifter handle that bends back towards the bench seat to make it comfortable to shift.

[NC_John]

The shifter position will be in the middle of the high hump (give or take depending on your exact motor position). The shifter will definitely have to have a bend in it but unless its a console shifter in a car, most do anyway. Clearance between the dash and the bench seat should be fine - the trick is finding the height/length that works best for you. I've got pics but I'll have to do some digging to find them.

[NC_John]

The shifter position will be in the middle of the high hump (give or take depending on your exact motor position). The shifter will definitely have to have a bend in it but unless its a console shifter in a car, most do anyway. Clearance between the dash and the bench seat should be fine - the trick is finding the height/length that works best for you. I've got pics but I'll have to do some digging to find them.

[NC_John]

Old school type shifter (modified original 4-spd truck shifter)



12" Lokar (too short)



hope this helps.

[BaroneDog]

Originally Posted by NC_John

Old school type shifter (modified original 4-spd truck shifter)

12" Lokar (too short)



hope this helps.

Very helpful! Thanks. I estimate that mine will come out of the floor a little more forward that yours. Maybe I just need to get the engine back a little further. Or, I can just shop around to see if I can find a handle that will work with my setup the way it is now. Thanks again!!!

[NC_John]

Those pictures were taken with the T-56 behind the small block. With the LS its going to be an inch or two further back and that is with the engine as far forward as it will go with the dirty dingo sliders and the engine perches in the rearward position (to allow clearance for the rack and pinion setup). Its going to be very close when its all done- it looks like I am going to have to shorten my driveshaft (again) by just an inch or two.