Power Window Project DIY 64-66 TRUCK

[rvrfoot]

Nice work.

[AZ66GMC]

First I want to thank Steve for this great thread and info to get my thoughts on this going again. For some time I figured that I could come up with something similar to the Nu-Relic's setup and never got around to it...

Thanks for your hard work and sharing Steve!

I had an old passenger side OEM regulator that had striped out splines on the crank shaft. Perfect for giving this a shot. I ordered the (4) motors from Amazon and had them in 2 days.

I followed your build but made a slight modification. I extended the regulator base so that I can mount the motor bracket to the regulator using the 3 intended mounting points. I had some scrap 16 gauge sheet metal which is the same thickness as the OEM regulator base.

I used your method of mounting the motor bracket to the regulator with 2 small sms/nuts in the 2 holes from the original hand crank rivits so that I could then drill out the holes for the 3 bigger mounting tabs.

It now bolts up to the base and is very solid. I tested it and it works perfect! The only issue is the rusty tension spring squeaking and creaking going up and down...

It took about 4hrs total for the one side. Now I just need to decide if I should get new regulators or hope the old OEM units hold up...

Steve, how's the quality of the regulator that you purchased?

Thanks again!

[AZ66GMC]

Here are a few more pics

[Ken Cook]

Awesome thread. Following.

[Steve Van Gent]

Originally Posted by AZ66GMC

First I want to thank Steve for this great thread and info to get my thoughts on this going again. For some time I figured that I could come up with something similar to the Nu-Relic's setup and never got around to it...

Thanks for your hard work and sharing Steve!

I had an old passenger side OEM regulator that had striped out splines on the crank shaft. Perfect for giving this a shot. I ordered the (4) motors from Amazon and had them in 2 days.

I followed your build but made a slight modification. I extended the regulator base so that I can mount the motor bracket to the regulator using the 3 intended mounting points. I had some scrap 16 gauge sheet metal which is the same thickness as the OEM regulator base.

I used your method of mounting the motor bracket to the regulator with 2 small sms/nuts in the 2 holes from the original hand crank rivits so that I could then drill out the holes for the 3 bigger mounting tabs.

It now bolts up to the base and is very solid. I tested it and it works perfect! The only issue is the rusty tension spring squeaking and creaking going up and down...

It took about 4hrs total for the one side. Now I just need to decide if I should get new regulators or hope the old OEM units hold up...

Steve, how's the quality of the regulator that you purchased?

Thanks again!

Hi Tony- great work! Love the fact you added material to bolt bracket to. I kept thinking that it must be in same plane as original mount, otherwise the teeth might not have enough overlap to stay engaged (slip if right on edge of tooth). You will need to let me know if this ever becomes issue.

The new regulator appears good quality, nice and tight action at scissor point. However, I will not know until i get few hours use on them.

FYI-the spring may not be needed at all, in fact, the Nu Relics has no spring with same motor. I probably will not put springs in after using for while, seems like not needed. I will keep you posted.

[Steve Van Gent]

Tony,

Sorry, after closer look, it appears you metal attachment is horseshoe shaped and does not cause motor to sit lower. My bad. Great add on! Those with mig and die grinder should be able to easily make upgrade.

[AZ66GMC]

Originally Posted by Steve Van Gent

Tony,

Sorry, after closer look, it appears you metal attachment is horseshoe shaped and does not cause motor to sit lower. My bad. Great add on! Those with mig and die grinder should be able to easily make upgrade.

Hi Steve, that’s correct, it’s a horseshoe around the raised base. I should have taken a pic of the plate completely cut. I still have to do the other side so I’ll get some more pics.

Been working a lot of hours the past few weeks, so have not gotten any further with my window project. Hopefully this weekend!

[LDO]

This is awesome. Gonna file it away until I am at that point on my project.

[Steve Van Gent]

UPDATED VIDEO;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9_7...ature=youtu.be

this shows my install of the retro window crank handle from Auto Loc; ALso my complaining of the PRICE!!! $100 per side; and the thing BINDS when engaged! What a low end piece of garbage, IMHO.

Speaking of low end pieces of garbage, you will see the other set of retro crank switches I bought, from Dannys Rod Shop on EBAY. these have a knurled shaft that does not even close fit my handles. My guess, fits 67-72. My loss, $139 gone.

In any case, the pass window is done on inside, now I need to run wires to ignition fused and GND.

BTW, does anyone know a good pass through that I can shuttle wires from cab to door? Something nice? I saw a spring with great mount for door and cab, wires ran through spring, I am sorry I did not buy when saw....

further, I have video coming where I do actual modification of regulator and mount motor to it for prep for drivers door, coming in next day or so.

Lastly, I may give you a sneak peak at a new product I am testing out, is a solid state module that will add one-touch express window up/down and power door lock control, also has receiver and transmitter fob for remote entry.

[TimE]

This is great Steve! I'll be putting this on my "to do" list for an old beater I'm throwing together.

[Clyde65]

Well done!!

[Steve Van Gent]

OK here is last item I promised; Parts 1, 2 and 3 of modifying the manual regulator and mounting motor . Is terrible video, shot in wrong light and angle, and I am told by wife I say the word "SO," far too much.

Maybe you can make it drinking game-every time I say word "SO" take a shot (tequila, my choice would be Don Julio Reposado), will not seem nearly as bad by end.

I may add one more video, I am adding a solid state relay controller that will add express up and down to window, maybe power door locks if I can find elegant way to add power locks, wireless remote...


Part 1: https://youtu.be/9sSZrrlKBo4

Part 2: https://youtu.be/_YLSsTWEdvg

Part 3: https://youtu.be/sZAsww1DURs


Enjoy!

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Steve Van Gent

...
BTW, does anyone know a good pass through that I can shuttle wires from cab to door? Something nice? I saw a spring with great mount for door and cab, wires ran through spring, I am sorry I did not buy when saw....
...

I'd like to know also. The A-Pillar is like two layers right?
Oh thank god for 64Shortbox (again) -
"...Oh, you will need to remove the front fenders to drill your holes in the door opening & door for your wiring conduits. The front bumper can stay on the truck but the cowl panels will need to come off. Be sure to tape up the bumper, door & fender edges, so you don't scratch them when removing & installing your fenders. Use SEVERAL layers of tape where you will be drilling on the door edge in case the drill chuck hits it. Better safe than sorry. As you can see I had a little blood loss - I healed your truck won't! I drilled BIG holes for my conduits because I used a Factory Power Window & Door Lock wiring harness from an 76 C-10 and needed to pass the factory wiring connectors through them. ..."
Link: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...74&postcount=9

[The Rocknrod]

What about the wires going inside the cab?

[Steve Van Gent]

These holes are Gynormous! in reality, only need 2 wires, 12V and GND. I plan on making hole only big enough for 2 wires and grommet;

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

I'd like to know also. The A-Pillar is like two layers right?
Oh thank god for 64Shortbox (again) -
"...Oh, you will need to remove the front fenders to drill your holes in the door opening & door for your wiring conduits. The front bumper can stay on the truck but the cowl panels will need to come off. Be sure to tape up the bumper, door & fender edges, so you don't scratch them when removing & installing your fenders. Use SEVERAL layers of tape where you will be drilling on the door edge in case the drill chuck hits it. Better safe than sorry. As you can see I had a little blood loss - I healed your truck won't! I drilled BIG holes for my conduits because I used a Factory Power Window & Door Lock wiring harness from an 76 C-10 and needed to pass the factory wiring connectors through them. ..."
Link: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...74&postcount=9

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Steve Van Gent

These holes are Gynormous! in reality, only need 2 wires, 12V and GND. I plan on making hole only big enough for 2 wires and grommet;

That is great Steve. So where exactly are you planning to drill these holes?

[Steve Van Gent]

I think you are on correct track; higher up on cab; This region should be single wall I hope, maybe easy drill. I will do some investigation this coming weekend;

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

What about the wires going inside the cab?

[63longfleet]

Has anyone tried this with knee knocker doors yet? Also can the "plate" that is needed off of the 73-87 style motor be sourced off of a square body at the salvage yard?

[The Rocknrod]

A month latter, do we have any news on the wiring path you used yet?

[seifer]

My power window mod is here...
http://www.c10australia.com.au/forum...uot-Pedro-quot

Still working on the switch.

[short n wide 72]

[short n wide 72]

Motors did not come with the brackets pictured.

[kieth]

My brother is making (with a stero lithograph printer) copies of the metal bracket required to adapt the 9 tooth power window unit. 10-12 of these will be available for free prototype testing. Only charge will be for postage....first come first served. Call or text 918-630-4665------email kieth.ruleco@hotmail.com

[LDO]

Email sent.

[The Rocknrod]

Almost two months latter Any info on the wire run?