Bad day - any suggestions?

[MiraclePieCo]

Today I was supposed to drive my '51 panel for the first time. It didn't work out that way...

After filling the engine with coolant, I noticed some leakage around a brass fitting in a water jacket. No problem, I'll pull it out and install thread sealer. Nope, the head of the fitting snapped off, leaving the threaded portion stuck in the head. I tried an EZ Out in the center but the plug wouldn't budge. The only solution I can think of now is to pull the head and take it to a machine shop - a lot of work, and a horrible letdown from thinking I was going to drive my truck today.

Anyone have any suggestions that might save me disassembling the engine?

[mikebte]

I have had good luck using a drill bit a few sizes smaller. Drill out the plug leaving the threads untouched. Followed by using a punch to fold the plug in on itself and removing with pliers.
Always following with a thread chaser. It’s in a tight spot and that’s kind of what makes it a pain.
May be easier to pull the head and do it on a bench.

[1project2many]

Is this a steel plug? If you have an oxy / acetelyne torch I strongly recommend as the first approach heating the plug (not the head) to red then letting it cool. After the plug has cooled try removing it with an easy out. This trick works amaingly well, even with plugs that are not broken.

The type of extractor makes a difference. Tapered extractors that thread in when turned counter clockwise are the least likely to work. I prefer straight extractors that are driven into the broken fastener.

You can sometimes use a carbide burr to thin the plug, making a notch. Grind extremely close to the threads then use a punch to tap a portion of the plug inward, compressing the plug to remove tension.

If you have an air hammer and patience it is sometimes possible to use the air hammer with the "mushroom" tip to gently tap, tap, tap, tap on the plug loosening it in the head.
Good luck...

[Foot Stomper]

My idea would be to cut a notch in the piece and use a big screw driver or flat bar that fits the notch and back it out. Much heat prior to attempting to unscrew it would definitely help the cause.

Good luck, let us know how this all turns out. Hoping you don't have to pull the head!!

[1project2many]

Just a quick story to note: That area on the SBC head is very thin. As a youngster I tried using the wrong type of torch, a simple propane torch, to heat a stuck plug. The slow application of heat by the torch warmed both the plug and the head. The plug came out but by the time the head was done cooling there was a small crack in the cast iron.

[joedoh]

my advice is pull the head. it sucks but pulling a head on a carbed 350 takes what, 30 minutes? better than farting with it at a bad angle and getting dents in the garage door from throwing tools.

people often find their destiny on the road they take to avoid it. so I will probably drown (terribly afraid of drowning, swallowing gallons and gallons of water) and you will probably booger up the repair and have to pull the head anyway.

as soon as you said "in a water jacket" my mind was made up. if I remember, hussey had a problem like this, or maybe it was coach, hell maybe it was both of them. they pulled the heads.

[Killer Bee]

I wouldn't pull the head for that, looks like there's plenty of working clearance.. sometimes the anchoring of the part on the engine is easier to work with than wrestling it on a bench..

couple of better tools for the task;
internal pipe wrench
straight fluted extractor

penetrant, copious amounts of penetrant..

get the extractors into the part of the fitting engaged in the head so it can dig in and turn.. try as much as possible not to spread on the part protruding.. tapered extractors are brutal on pipe fittings, very small contact point and usually not where you need it..

option mentioned above may be worth a shot as well, cut a slot across the part sticking out and fit a screwdriver type of tool to back it out.. I have a set of draglink sockets that work great.. in this case, tap the bit on the fitting and cut the slots on the witness marks.. keep it tight fitting as possible..

being brass and a hollow pipe fitting, it will collapse easily as well releasing thread tension.. simple curved jaw vise grips may back it off too..

overall key is traction on the fitting to force it to turn.. do as much as possible not to lose what's protruding.. once threads break away, the rest is gravy..

and even if you're not tooled up or comfortable with task, call a local machinist.. might be able to get a field call for few bucks or a twelve pak.. pulling the head isn't much but you'll be out gasket costs, time, and machine services anyway..

good luck and please let us know how it turns out!

[Driver_WT]

If it is minor leakage around the plug, I would think you could still drive the truck to a repair shop to have them remove the broken plug.

[mongocanfly]

Im with joedoh...pull the head...itll make life much easier...

[Volfandt]

Theres alot of thread to work with and with the exh manifold off looks like ample room.

I'd be tempted to try some heat with vise grips and a straight shank easy out.
Cutting slots sounds good too.

You may end up pulling the head but explore other options 1st.

Another option is to trailer it to a machine shop.

Good luck

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Im with joedoh...pull the head...itll make life much easier...

I too would remove the head, so you have to wait a few days to drive it, this way it's done and done by those that do this kind of work

[dsraven]

you mentioned the fitting in the head is brass, kinda hard to tell by the pic if you meant there was a brass fitting screwed into a steel fitting or if the part stuck in the head now is the brass part. what I have had luck with is to drill into it in one spot close to the threads with a small drill or use a burr to get a cut close to the threads in one spot. this will weaken the rest of the fitting because it is now not a full circle. then use a small chisel to collapse the fitting into the middle and out of the thread. use care with the chisel because, as mentioned, this is not a thick casting. you could also get a cut to the threads on 2 opposing sides and then collapse the brass into the middle and remove in 2 pieces. I have had luck with the pipe fitting removal tools as well. as seen below in the link. the other thing you could try is to thread the fitting and install a plug, then use the fitting in the other head or the fitting in the intake manifold near the thermostat for the temp gage. if the fitting is actually a brass fitting you will not really do well by attempting to weld to it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Pipe...X167/204218641

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inte...-204218626-_-N

[Killer Bee]

^ good point, relieving thread tension usually works, but I use that as last resort because you may not be able to use many other means afterwards..

something else I forgot to add above.. looks like about three threads showing.. trim a hex coupler down to a thread or two more than showing and thread it over the nipple that's exposed.. braze the the ends of the threads together and back it out..

tack welding a nut or bolt, whichever is applicable, to broken steel fasteners and fittings is quite common..

I still wouldn't pull the head just for that, if you're concerned about other cracks in that area, put a temp pipe plug in the hole after you remove the broken fitting and pressure test the coolant system, inspect for leaks and watch for pressure decay on the gauge..

a lot of varied replies but I guess it's just up to your personal skill level and experience in this type of work.. also depends on what you're equipped with in your shop.. I have all the tools and methods I mentioned above available in my home garage, but that may not be the case for everyone.. and certainly not to belittle your task at hand but that looks like a fairly straight forward extraction.. once you get one or two under your belt, the rest will be a cake walk..

working professionally on heavy junk in harsh climates including sea duty for 30 years, I've had my share of challenges in this area.. so a lot of your options depends on whether you want to be good at doing this yourself or just want it out of there and move on..

good luck!

[_Ogre]

i'd bet the right tool for the right job would remove it without pulling anything off
if you didn't have a pipe ez-out, get one, it should come out as we know it's not rusted in
a pipe ez-out may have bottomed out on the inner casting, causing it to slip
easily fixed by cutting of the ez-out with a cutoff wheel

[Second Series]

If it's just a plug, a quick fix could be some JBweld. I took my truck to the shop to repair a leaky freeze plug and they couldn't fix it without JBweld. It's still holding after a decade.

[mr48chev]

I'd have to agree with Joedoh probably the best way is to pull the head and take it to a machine shop.

If you finish the job in the truck I'd suggest as others did to drill the plug out almost to the threads and then knock the side in away from the threads. I've cut other fittings with a saw blade right up to the threads in a couple of spots to be able to knock a chunk out and then collapse the piece. That might be too tricky standing on your head though. Just make sure what ever you do don't into the threads in the head.

[franken]

Now for something completely different...
From the pic in post 1, I'd heat it, let it cool, then use a drift and gently (not one of my features) bash that thing in a ways, then grab it w/ some vicegrips. Maybe some penetrating oil (not wd40!) in between.
I might also pop the inner fender out to gain some access. Maybe jack it up a bit to drop the wheel and/or take the wheel off.

[MiraclePieCo]

Update: Plug 1, me 0.

I soaked it 24 hrs with PB Blaster, heated it with a torch (twice), then tried a series of removal tools: internal pipe wrench, pipe nipple extractor, air chisel, vice grips and spiral-style EZ Out. The EZ Out got the best grip, but I put MASSIVE pressure on it to no avail, probably just short of the extractor snapping off. The air chisel managed to mangle it but not budge it. There simply isn't room to get a drill, file or rotary burr into that area with sufficient visibility to avoid damage to the threads in the head. So...

The head has to come out. This is very demoralizing for me, as I was just ready to take the truck for it's first test run. Also the job would have been far easier when I had the front sheet metal off. With my schedule I estimate it will be about a month before I get back to square one now :-(

[joedoh]

ah crap, sorry to hear that

[Michel]

I would pull the head so no or less risk to damage the thread.
Just imagine if you were leaving here in France... pull the head, remove the plug, order the replacment parts, wait for at least 2 weeks for time to arrive and then reinstall the head. One month is not so much time ! hahaha
You will enjoy the first ride even more !
Cheers from France !

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Michel

I would pull the head so no or less risk to damage the thread.
Just imagine if you were leaving here in France... pull the head, remove the plug, order the replacment parts, wait for at least 2 weeks for time to arrive and then reinstall the head. One month is not so much time ! hahaha
You will enjoy the first ride even more !
Cheers from France !

Thanks for the perspective!

[1project2many]

Let no one say you didn't fight to the end. Seriously... You did all you could.

Anything special about the head? Could you grab another off CL or from a friend or local shop instead of waiting for the machinist?

[ndeep]

before i pulled the head, i would try to slit it first. first cut off off all that you can sticking out off the block.next take a sawsall blade, wrap tape on one end for a handle , stick it in the hole and slowly cut three pie cuts into it. then you can generally pop the pieces out without any thread damage. i am a plumber by trade and we do this all the time. good luck

[Killer Bee]

I've used Jerry's EDM in the past for advanced level brokens, they know their stuff

their videos are cool, but fast forward to about 6:00 and you'll see similar technic to what's posted above regarding relieving thread tension and breaking pieces loose into the hole..

https://youtu.be/YbeKxFBZrF8

water jacket on assembled engine may not be ideal setting due to contamination getting trapped inside but maybe the OP can pull this off afterall with head removed..

soft brass is not too bad, broken taps and extractors make you talk like a sailor

good luck!

[MARTINSR]

Damn that sucks! Sorry to hear it.

Brian