1964 C20 Turbo LQ4 Build

[Android04]

Looking good.

[tmills213]

A short update. Newborn makes things slower-er.

Messed around with steering and the firewall bolts solved it as far as i can tell. got it all lined up.

Got my overpriced firewall grommet installed for the computer behind the glovebox

I have an american shifter for 4l80 I bought used and the gate was worn to the point it didnt work. I found lokar parts work on this (are they the same company??) A.S. wanted something like $100 or some other ludicrous amount. LOK-S-6946 fits if fine for about $20

also started the hydroboost. think I am going to get the Tallon threaded shaft and get it together.

Also welded in the BOV in the alum intake tube.

Extra slow and steady. maybe my boys will finish it for prom...

[C10matt]

Nice build, cool to see another Michigan turbo truck

[tmills213]

Formerly mi lol. Back to ****ty Il.

[tmills213]

Did something. hydroboost mounted. Drew up and cut the brackets 3/16 and 3/8 for nut clearance. Tack welded a little booger so it doesnt rotate. I am unsure if I would do it again, just buy it probably. should work fine if anyone wants to try it.

I also made a square nut to remove the hyd nut.

[tmills213]

Not sure where almost a year went since I posted, oh wait, kids haha. I finally had enough again (again) and moved the truck to the lift so it motivated me to work on it.

-Fuel system
- -6 return -8 feed PTFE braid to Nicopp hard in between. going E85
- diesel truck fuel iflter 6 micron at the tank (fed be walb 450)
- jeep 16 gallon tank with custom sending unit/ AN bulkheads (super simple piece)
- made the bracket to mount it in the rear. did have to cut rivets on one crossbar. Will decide if it goes back in later.
-need to figure out filler neck/breather still

Trans
- cooler is 11" remote syst from am. volt. its a cheap one and ill see how it does. under passenger bed for ease. THis will be regular rubber trans hose and barb fitting. my AN fitting costs are getting ridiculous and dont think i needed here.

I'm sure there is something else in between...

miscellaneous :
-steering linkage mounted
-cruise control mounted
-turbski drain plumbed and fitting welded in pan.
-coils are mounted (in a weird spot but we will see)
-Ditched the stock harness and sold my soul for a holley Xmax.

[tmills213]

more pictures

[tmills213]

few things started
battery box, not sure about this one yet. targets a d38/78 battery dimensions, I had a batt close around and it was tight. like bolt head rubbing tight. I cut the corner of box down into the fender to give me some feel good spaced between the hood and the posts.

fuse panel- started using original mounting screws. the terminator will be in the glove box. all power has a short run through drivers. i will have to redo the body harness.

[tmills213]

I am using a volvo fan and had a hard time finding the relay plugs. the signal plugs are available from amazon. The main power wire I had to get from dave barton website. have to buy three individual parts. The gound i just cut and made a short run to my battery ring terminal

[tmills213]

Well somehow 2 years has escaped me. Time for a major update, I will try not to ramble. I have forgot what I have even posted so there may be some overlap

short story:
The truck was running and under its own power, then first test ride it hit 7 psi and blew three ring lands. End sad story haha.


Fuel:
-All lines were completed in Nicopp 1/2in feed 3/8 return
-A fuel filter was added off the tank with walboro 450.
-1/0 wire ran all the way to terminal for futur pump if needed.
-a crappy in bed nozzle was made to fill. not thrilled with it. The jeep tank sits close to the bed and I rush things

Engine,
-coil mounts were made to sit on top of the valve covers and I did not want to modify the new harness yet so i made the wires wrap around the headers and go from the underside.
-Ditched the GM and decided to just go Holley Terminator x max with 4l80e

Brakes
-Had brake line system and drive shaft quoted to have someone get the truck on the road and was told 5k. That helped me decide to get going on it myself. 700 later i was moving
-Big shout out to ORME brothers in Cali. I needed help talking myself through the mix match mess of 76 front 79 rear and 2002 MC. They helped me get through it and piece it out over the phone and ship what I needed. they were shop #6 i talked to trying to get help talking it out.
- Had to cut and modify the bar connecting the pedal to the hydroboost. little lathe work.

Driveline
-truck was brough to a fab shop on the trailer and said measure it. $320 later it was correct length and 3.5in diameter that I provided. little mixup with the 1410 ujoints vs the 1350 u joint in my 14 bolt rear. I bought a special adapter u joint until i change the rear.


power steering
-had to get some special hoses made and some certain AN fittings but not sure I am happy yet as they are aluminum and seem to leak slightly.



off subject.
I accidently bought a 1948 3600 into the mix for some reason.

[tmills213]

more

[tmills213]

https://youtube.com/shorts/WqlFdXRpn-o?feature=share

[88Stanger]

Oh damn!!

[Paul Y]

The broken ring lands are just a right of passage.....

$150 on eBay for a set of 8 rods and pistons, file the rings and your are good to go!

(he says safely from the comfort of his desk.....)

P.

[tmills213]

Sorry sometimes I get emails sometimes I don't about responses.

I couldn't justify the full forged route being the low target. I got 8 Gen4 rods and 8 Gen4 rods/pistons for $150. One piston was bad so I ended up buying another single off ebay. Mahle rings, and Clevite H bearins are waiting to go in after a dingle berry hone on 240 grit. This is favoring the Sloppy mech side of things. I was trying not to but I feel it'll get me down the road.

Other items like injectors (will prob get sent out or cleaned) and FPR to bring it back down.

[SkinnyG]

Do you know what caused the broken lands? Timing?

[tmills213]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Do you know what caused the broken lands? Timing?

Not completely sure. Cyl 8 was cold and tough time idling. I think it was trying to compensate for a bad injector and making other cylinder rich. It hit 7 psi and afr in log peaked to 16 for a split second. My fuel pressure was running at 65 as it was overpowering the regulator. Lot of red flags but live and learn. Try again.
Posted via Mobile Device

[SkinnyG]

A lean spike should melt a piston. Detonation breaks things. At 7 psi you should have no more than 15-20° on pump. That lean spike is also at 43kPa, so you're not actually in boost at all, so it shouldn't be hurt at that point in the datalog.

[tmills213]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

A lean spike should melt a piston. Detonation breaks things. At 7 psi you should have no more than 15-20° on pump. That lean spike is also at 43kPa, so you're not actually in boost at all, so it shouldn't be hurt at that point in the datalog.

Is bad luck an acceptable answer? It was on lowest spring waste. I honestly don’t know what to think. Is too much fuel due to high base cause wash down of cylinder and loose oil cooling on rings? There was a ton of fuel in oil. Cylinder walls look good.
Posted via Mobile Device

[SkinnyG]

Bad luck is acceptable.

"If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all."

[duramax55]

tmils123 what kind of air bags are those and where did you get them? also how dose it ride with those?

[SkinnyG]

They look like Universal Air "Air House 2" bags. I'm running them, but mine hasn't been on the street yet.

[tmills213]

Originally Posted by duramax55

tmils123 what kind of air bags are those and where did you get them? also how dose it ride with those?

Skinny g is right. I haven’t had on road long enough to not focus on if it going to blow up lol. They seem to be a little on the small side. I think mine are an older version and only rate to like 130 psi or something. I want to say last time I looked at them they are much higher rated now closer to 200. They struggle to lift the front and need every bit of 100+ to maintain but I also think I have an an arm rubbing as there are no shims or alignment is way off.

I have D2600 bags on the rear and my last short drive they all seem bouncy as hell with new shocks. Maybe shock geometry it off but I am not much lower than stock.

Ultimately I think I will pocket the LCA in front .
Posted via Mobile Device

[SkinnyG]

I need 125psi in those bags to life my '61 to ride height. Ride height is with the bag about 5.5" tall or so.

Being a small bag, it'll need higher pressure and be kinda firm, but bouncing on the front bumper it doesn't seem too firm, but I set my vehicles up QUITE firm.

[tmills213]

Short video of it idling. Been a fun summer. Needs new tires . I am over the catch can smell and exhaust fender dump but I’d rather enjoy for a minute. And get my 49 rolling. https://youtu.be/pCjRBacFe3Q?feature=shared