'65 Water temp gauge not warning lights

[jmcap]

Hey Guys,
I want to return to the old school look of the original dash cluster (that I have available to me ) rather than the aftermarket gauges in an after market dash cluster the PO has installed.
Particularly as it applies to wiring the Water Temp Gauge. The wiring diagrams all show hot and cold lights rather than a needle gauge. I know I need to change out the engine block sensor to the older style. The rear of the gauge has two contact points: one to the sensor and the other to ??

Your help is always appreciated,

John

[ray_mcavoy]

There were 2 types of instrument clusters used in these trucks. The standard instrument cluster had indicator/warning lights for "cold", "hot", "oil", and "gen". This is what's shown on many wiring diagrams.

The RPO Z53 "gauge cluster" replaced those lights with an actual temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge, and battery gauge (ammeter). These clusters were standard equipment in the larger conventional cab trucks (and optional in the lighter duty trucks). So you have to look at the wiring diagrams for the larger trucks to find the wiring for these gauge clusters.

The two terminals on the back of the factory temperature gauge are (as viewed from the rear): Left side is the the connection to the sending unit (typically a dark green wire on the diagrams). And the terminal on the right is the ignition-switched +12V power connection (typically a pink wire). The gauge also has a ground connection via the cluster case (which in turn grounds through contact with the dash).

[jmcap]

Always amazed at the wealth of knowledge out there!
Thanks Ray for yours.

John

[kens65fb]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

There were 2 types of instrument clusters used in these trucks. The standard instrument cluster had indicator/warning lights for "cold", "hot", "oil", and "gen". This is what's shown on many wiring diagrams.

The RPO Z53 "gauge cluster" replaced those lights with an actual temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge, and battery gauge (ammeter). These clusters were standard equipment in the larger conventional cab trucks (and optional in the lighter duty trucks). So you have to look at the wiring diagrams for the larger trucks to find the wiring for these gauge clusters.

The two terminals on the back of the factory temperature gauge are (as viewed from the rear): Left side is the the connection to the sending unit (typically a dark green wire on the diagrams). And the terminal on the right is the ignition-switched +12V power connection (typically a pink wire). The gauge also has a ground connection via the cluster case (which in turn grounds through contact with the dash).

Thanks for the info,, is the "TEMP SENDER" the same, for Gauge & idiot light ?
I know in early mustangs the engine sender was a different part for Gauge versus light.

[The Rocknrod]

If look under "Instruments" in the FAQ page you will find all kinds of threads with pictures and explinations etc. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=646002
For instance (just one mind you) - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=598240

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by kens65fb

Thanks for the info,, is the "TEMP SENDER" the same, for Gauge & idiot light ?
I know in early mustangs the engine sender was a different part for Gauge versus light.

No. The gauge sender only has one terminal and the light sender has two since the light cluster has both a hot and cold light.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by jmcap

Hey Guys,
I want to return to the old school look of the original dash cluster (that I have available to me ) rather than the aftermarket gauges in an after market dash cluster the PO has installed.
Particularly as it applies to wiring the Water Temp Gauge. The wiring diagrams all show hot and cold lights rather than a needle gauge. I know I need to change out the engine block sensor to the older style. The rear of the gauge has two contact points: one to the sensor and the other to ??

Your help is always appreciated,

John

The light cluster actually has 4. One pink for each light and one green (dark and light) for each light. Pretty sure they are two different connectors so you should be able to use which ever one you choose to plug into the gauge cluster and leave the other unhooked.