OEM style Nylon fuel line and connectors: Help me understand

[skyphix]

Hey everyone,
I had originally planned to do braided stainless line for my entire fuel system for my LS Swap but realized that this is a daily driver and thats a bit of overkill. I realized that a ton of new cars use the Nylon fuel line with barbed quick connect fittings.

I think I've mostly got things worked out with connectors, except for connecting to the 1987 sender.



This thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...or-outlet.html

Explained connecting to the Corvette fuel regulator/filter, and thats easy enough, but what about connecting to the fuel sender from an 87 FI truck? That looks like this



Now, in some ways that looks to be compatible with the quick connect fittings - will I need to modify it in any way? Like cut off the flare/barb? Or do the nylon quick connects just connect over it?

Apologies - this is my first EFI swap into a formerly carbureted vehicle so in the past fuel systems were just upgrade the pump and run it when I've swapped them. I'll be using all new tank/sender from the EFI square bodies, and an EP381 pump (I had thought about going Walbro but decided to just get it running for now as time is getting short before my deadline.)

I appreciate any and all info on how these nylon lines + quick connect ends work. They seem really straight forward but I am a visual learner and sometimes an explanation ahead of time goes a long way.

[kipps]

I'm doing similar. I'm doing dual tanks, so things are a little different though.

I have an 87 tank and 87 sender on each side of the truck. I'm not modifying the senders in any way. I purchased an ear clamp kit on Amazon, and am using j30r9 fuel hose to go from the sender to each filter/regulator. I'm using 3/8" hose for the pressure side, and 5/16" hose for the return. On the sender, I just shoved the hoses on the nipples as far as I reasonably could, and crimped an ear clamp down tight. I double clamped the high pressure side. On the regulator, I crimped the hoses onto Dorman quick connects. I used 800-122 for the 5/16" return fitting, and 800-124 for the 3/8" pressure fitting. Note that these fittings are 45 degrees, which worked best for my situation. You may prefer a 90 or straight fitting, depending on where you're mounting your filter.

I'm tucking both of my filters up inside the rear cab-support cross member. The vent lines will be crimped onto the senders, and coming together to a tee mounted on a frame rail, and then going up to the charcoal canister using factory vent line. I will not crimp the 1/4" vent hoses onto the tee fitting.

I'm modifying the factory two-pin weatherpack connector plus ground wire. Instead, I'm combining the whole thing into a three or four pin connector per tank.

When all is said and done, I'll be able to unhook the quick connects at the filter, pop the vent hose off the tee, unplug the electrical connector, and drop the tank, while snaking the hoses and wires down over the frame rail. The only reason to disturb the hose connections on the sender, is if the sender or hoses need replacing.

I also intend to cover the sender-to-filter hoses with 5/8" split loom. This is merely for abrasion resistance. 5/8" will fit over both the 5/16" and the 3/8" hose. 1/2" split loom will not. Might also add a reflective foil to the split loom if it's even remotely near the exhaust.

I hope to have some pics in a week or so.

This will likely not apply to your situation, but I'm using a sv20b valve to combine the two side tank feeds. This will connect the two filter outputs directly to a piece of nylon fuel line(also covered with 3/8" split loom) that runs up to the fuel rail. Obviously, this will not work with factory wiring.

[vannatta20]

https://youtu.be/cCFoPxXfhUA

Here is a tip in installing these fittings

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by skyphix

Hey everyone,
I had originally planned to do braided stainless line for my entire fuel system for my LS Swap but realized that this is a daily driver and thats a bit of overkill. I realized that a ton of new cars use the Nylon fuel line with barbed quick connect fittings.

I think I've mostly got things worked out with connectors, except for connecting to the 1987 sender.



This thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...or-outlet.html

Explained connecting to the Corvette fuel regulator/filter, and thats easy enough, but what about connecting to the fuel sender from an 87 FI truck? That looks like this



Now, in some ways that looks to be compatible with the quick connect fittings - will I need to modify it in any way? Like cut off the flare/barb? Or do the nylon quick connects just connect over it?

Apologies - this is my first EFI swap into a formerly carbureted vehicle so in the past fuel systems were just upgrade the pump and run it when I've swapped them. I'll be using all new tank/sender from the EFI square bodies, and an EP381 pump (I had thought about going Walbro but decided to just get it running for now as time is getting short before my deadline.)

I appreciate any and all info on how these nylon lines + quick connect ends work. They seem really straight forward but I am a visual learner and sometimes an explanation ahead of time goes a long way.

Dorman makes compression fittings that you can put on the lines coming out of the sender that have a barbed fitting on the other end so you can press on the nylon fuel line. Or, better yet, if you know anyone with a Mastercool flaring tool, you could cut the ends off and have them flared for the factory quick connect fittings.

[LeesTruk]

Sky, I've been running my truck for close to 4 yrs. now, using the Dorman nylon fuel lines and fittings. When I was still working, we used this stuff for most fuel line repairs needed from road salt corrosion. Anyways, the thing to know about nylon fuel line, is that the stuff does not have a memory, meaning that if you think you can heat it to insert a fitting, it won't relax to accept the fitting then tighten back up to create a tight seal. Spend the bucks to get the proper insertion tool (you don't need to buy the whole Dorman kit). With that being said, even with tool purchase, as well as lines and fittings, you'll still be money ahead, compared to AN fittings, and shielded/braided fuel lines. Yes, there are horror stories of vehicles going up in flames from using factory style fuel supply equipment made from nylon, but you have to wonder about it's construction and routing. Here's some pics of how I made mine. It also helps to use the hydraulic brake line tool to make a few fuel line pieces;

[LeesTruk]

The Dorman p/n for the insertion tool is Dorman 800-301, and most real autoparts stores can get one for you, or you can get it online;

[skyphix]

Thank you everyone for the explanation and photos! Thats a huge help - everyone - and even though dual tanks doesn't apply to me, I am sure it will someone else as that seems to be a super common question.


Lee - Those brass compression fittings on the sender, are those the ones that ls1Nova71 is referring to? Did you have to trim the barb off the sender to install them (seems like its trimmed off, not too big of a deal if so, just curious?)

The whole system looks pretty simple, but I don't have any of it in front of me right now so understanding what I need to order/get is where I am getting hung up. I had absolutely planned on buying the tool - in the scheme of things under $100 for a tool that I can use on every vehicle I own is perfectly reasonable and this for sure won't be my last swap or build.

The full braided fuel line kit is under $300 with the filter/regulator and all ends included, but from what I can see the nylon fuel lines and fittings will be under $100 (before the tool purchase, which I am not counting here, because tools are ALWAYS useful, especially living in a severe rust state) and easily repairable with parts store stuff rather than having to order AN stuff. I planned on using some split loom like the factory does for abrasion resistance and the reflective heat tape anywhere it comes even close to the exhaust. My plan is to route everything in the frame channel if possible to keep it away from as much stuff as I can, then I'll use 45 and 90 elbows, or the Dorman male to male metal piece, where needed. to make bends or keep things tidy. I will also likely try to reuse some of the brand new fuel line on my donor Yukon where I can, if I can. If not, I'll run the whole thing with NEW nylon line.

I'll go braided stainless and AN fittings when the race car build gets under way next year, but for the daily that is staying basically stock, simple, safe, and supportable is more ideal.

[kipps]

Skyphix, note that there are several styles of quick connects. Of three that I know off... #1 is the factory style, like what you see in the outlet end of the filter/regulator. #2 is the one Leestruk shows in his posts. #3 is the Dorman one I referenced in my post. I assume that #1 is the most dependable, but could be a bear to disconnect in tight quarters. #2 is very easy to disconnect. #3 is sometimes easy, and sometimes nearly impossible to disconnect. I wish I had used #2 instead of #3.

I have seen all three of these in a barbed form, allowing them to be clamped to rubber hose or pressed in to nylon line. #1 might only be available in metal. On #2, don't forget to remove the small clip before pressing it in.

Keep in mind, that it will be much harder to press-fit a 45 or 90 fitting, compared to a straight one. You may have to rig your own wooden clamps for doing this.

I've heard of folks installing ear clamps on the nylon line as a precaution. I'll do it because it's convenient. It's probably not necessary, though.

[skyphix]

Originally Posted by kipps

Skyphix, note that there are several styles of quick connects. Of three that I know off... #1 is the factory style, like what you see in the outlet end of the filter/regulator. #2 is the one Leestruk shows in his posts. #3 is the Dorman one I referenced in my post. I assume that #1 is the most dependable, but could be a bear to disconnect in tight quarters. #2 is very easy to disconnect. #3 is sometimes easy, and sometimes nearly impossible to disconnect. I wish I had used #2 instead of #3.

I have seen all three of these in a barbed form, allowing them to be clamped to rubber hose or pressed in to nylon line. #1 might only be available in metal. On #2, don't forget to remove the small clip before pressing it in.

Keep in mind, that it will be much harder to press-fit a 45 or 90 fitting, compared to a straight one. You may have to rig your own wooden clamps for doing this.

I've heard of folks installing ear clamps on the nylon line as a precaution. I'll do it because it's convenient. It's probably not necessary, though.

Awesome info, that makes sense. The more I think about it, bends would be better achieved with the male/male dorman piece in the link I posted, and using #2 style.

I think I'm finally getting my hands around it - thank you all!

[LeesTruk]

Sky, I've been looking at your initial picture of the sending unit and noticed it is different than the unit I used in my truck. For what year is that one? My unit had bulb type ends on the three lines (look closely at my pic., the middle/vent line can be seen) that I removed from the supply/return lines to allow fitment of the compression fittings. If you're careful with your fuel line run, you can make gentle bends in the lines without worry of kinks, or the need of 90* fittings. If my line came close to a heat source, I used aluminized sheathing to protect it. If there was a sharp edge that the line rubbed against, I used rubber hose sliced lengthwise to cover that section

[skyphix]

Originally Posted by LeesTruk

Sky, I've been looking at your initial picture of the sending unit and noticed it is different than the unit I used in my truck. For what year is that one? My unit had bulb type ends on the three lines (look closely at my pic., the middle/vent line can be seen) that I removed from the supply/return lines to allow fitment of the compression fittings. If you're careful with your fuel line run, you can make gentle bends in the lines without worry of kinks, or the need of 90* fittings. If my line came close to a heat source, I used aluminized sheathing to protect it. If there was a sharp edge that the line rubbed against, I used rubber hose sliced lengthwise to cover that section

I pulled that from Rock Auto - so who knows if its an actual picture of the sender or just a similar one. Its part number FG05N for a 1987 V10 pickup. From my research its the correct one to use for the EFI tank from the same year if you have a passenger side fill (Which I do.)


Good to know that you can do gentle bends. Because my truck is quite low I was just making best effort to keep everything as tight to the body or frame as is possible given this will see 3 season daily use on some questionable roads. I may be able to figure out a way to route that I wont need any hard line for corners, I'll have to play that by ear I suppose.