Will 15" x 10" wide rim with 4" backspace fit with stock rear?

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by goatless

Here's mine with 15x10, 325 50 15 Nitto drag tires. BS is 6.5". Wheels from Wheels Vintique. Probably could have done just 6" BS, or an even wider wheel.

Man! I've always liked the look of the fleetside without a tailgate or bumper.
Nice shot. Good rake.

[goatless]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Man! I've always liked the look of the fleetside without a tailgate or bumper.
Nice shot. Good rake.

LOL, thanks! No front bumper, either.

[88Stanger]

goatless
That is a nice ride with a good amount of rake. I am happy to hear this about the rims, that is almost exactly what i want. Thanks!!!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

goatless
That is a nice ride with a good amount of rake. I am happy to hear this about the rims, that is almost exactly what i want. Thanks!!!

But..... How much drop are you intending to have since your plan is to 'bag' the truck?

If you drive it low (more than a typical static coil w/block drop) & need the wheel opening lip trimmed to ensure clearance, the seam between the upper/lower bed half is @ the same dimension. You can't just roll it for clearance so it becomes more work required.

Like I stated about earlier responses, what might work for one truck might not for another based on what parts are used & how low/what the owner considers low. Based on the trucks I've done, this truck has a very mild drop & not what I would consider a 'bagged' ride.

[SCOTI]

These are what I consider 'bagged' ride heights.....

[goatless]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

But..... How much drop are you intending to have since your plan is to 'bag' the truck?

If you drive it low (more than a typical static coil w/block drop) & need the wheel opening lip trimmed to ensure clearance, the seam between the upper/lower bed half is @ the same dimension. You can't just roll it for clearance so it becomes more work required.

Like I stated about earlier responses, what might work for one truck might not for another based on what parts are used & how low/what the owner considers low. Based on the trucks I've done, this truck has a very mild drop & not what I would consider a 'bagged' ride.

I went and installed long-tube headers recently, so it's not going to get any lower for now.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by goatless

I went and installed long-tube headers recently, so it's not going to get any lower for now.

You're as low as I'd want to go.

[88Stanger]

Scoti
I think i may be close to those heights, maybe not that low because (I could be wrong) i think to get that low you really must do some drastic changes on the from cross member. I am leaving the front cross member as is but installing tubular upper and lower a-arms cupped for bags and the rear i am c-notching it, but not to an extreme.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Scoti
I think i may be close to those heights, maybe not that low because (I could be wrong) i think to get that low you really must do some drastic changes on the from cross member. I am leaving the front cross member as is but installing tubular upper and lower a-arms cupped for bags and the rear i am c-notching it, but not to an extreme.

Blue truck has a OE front x-member from what I remember. It was possibly pancaked but it was not an aftermarket unit.

The math can be done to get a better 'guess' of possible interference.... How tall of a rear tire is in the plan?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The stepsides have less room for tire and wheel than a fleetside. You will not be able to use a off the shelf 10" wide wheel on a stepside with a stock width differential, if it is lowered.

Originally Posted by Todd46

Thanks for asking the question. I'm looking at the same size rims on a 62 step side.


Thanks Captain! I appreciate all the information you share

Todd46, you could do an easy(ish) mini-tub & fit 10's but would still want 6"bs so things clear. I've sold multiple sets of fleetside wheel tubs to step-side guys. Center & set them in place against the bedside wall & floor to mark the area the wood floor needs to be trimmed back. trim the floor. Mark & drill some holes. Some cutting & drilling & bolt the tubs in. You do lose bed space so 4x8 sheets of plywood would have to ride on top of the tubs but your truck can still do truck stuff.

Wheel Vintiques does custom back space set-ups for $25/wheel on top of their regular price (they did this for me in 2018).

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Blue truck has a OE front x-member from what I remember. It was possibly pancaked but it was not an aftermarket unit.

The math can be done to get a better 'guess' of possible interference.... How tall of a rear tire is in the plan?

Scoti
Honestly, i am not sure yet. I am not set on any size really, not to tall, yet not to little. I know that is could be a wide number, but i am also looking at maybe running 18", 19" or 20" even, but the part i really am sure about is the 10" width.
By the way, thanks for your time here.

[LostMy65]

This thread can be helpful for deciding on size:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=379110

[88Stanger]

So here is the Rims i am looking at.
Ridler 695 Series Matte Black with Machined Lip Wheels 695-8973MB - Summit
They are 18" Rims and 9.5" Wide with 5.5" Back spacing. After all that i have read here and the research i can do, i still am nervous if these will fit. I think they will, just not sure how close to the outer fender i will be. Modifying the inside fender and bed are not a concern, just if it will hit the outer fender.

[SCOTI]

With those numbers, hitting/rubbing on the outer edge of the body shouldn't be an issue.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

With those numbers, hitting/rubbing on the outer edge of the body shouldn't be an issue.

Thank you Sir, that is what i think also, but i just wanted another opinion.

[88Stanger]

For the Fronts now. Would the same 20"x 9" Rims with 5.5" backspace work?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

For the Fronts now. Would the same 20"x 9" Rims with 5.5" backspace work?

Fronts get harder to assess. A 9" wheel w/that much back-spacing/offset is going to crowd things on the a-arm side of business. Disc brake spindles widen the track width. CPP's 'Modular' spindles are supposed to maintain drum brake hub track widths. Point being, the spindle used can change the dimensions so everything needs to be known for calculating & considerations.

What spindles?
What a-arms will be used? Are they narrowed vs. stock?
What tire size?

5.50"bs is aggressive up front. Watch-outs would be possible/probable a-arm, sway-bar, & possibly the frame or shock interference.

Beyond that, the visual aspect needs consideration. The track width is impacted by wheel width & back-spacing. You'll want to know where you are for one end to "match" the opposite end appropriately. 'Too narrow' of a front track width w/a rear track width that is as wide as allowable (because of sheet metal) may not 'look' right (or good). The opposite is true as well.... a narrower rear foot print vs. the front looks awkward & not well planned.

Bottom line, more info needs crunching before saying yes/no to your proposed combo working.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Fronts get harder to assess. A 9" wheel w/that much back-spacing/offset is going to crowd things on the a-arm side of business. Disc brake spindles widen the track width. CPP's 'Modular' spindles are supposed to maintain drum brake hub track widths. Point being, the spindle used can change the dimensions so everything needs to be known for calculating & considerations.

What spindles?
What a-arms will be used? Are they narrowed vs. stock?
What tire size?

5.50"bs is aggressive up front. Watch-outs would be possible/probable a-arm, sway-bar, & possibly the frame or shock interference.

Beyond that, the visual aspect needs consideration. The track width is impacted by wheel width & back-spacing. You'll want to know where you are for one end to "match" the opposite end appropriately. 'Too narrow' of a front track width w/a rear track width that is as wide as allowable (because of sheet metal) may not 'look' right (or good). The opposite is true as well.... a narrower rear foot print vs. the front looks awkward & not well planned.

Bottom line, more info needs crunching before saying yes/no to your proposed combo working.

Thank you sir for your time on this, i really appreciate it. I am not taking a closer look at what i will use. After reading this, i think it is better that i go with 8" rims up front, but i will need to look at what is offered. In the next week or so i will be ordering a set, when i get a good idea what i would like for sure, i will throw it on here and see what you think.
Again, thanks.

[88Stanger]

Ok, i am ready to buy rims and after much consideration, i think im going with a set of "20 x 9" and 4.75" backspace for the rears and then for the fronts 20"x 8.5 and 3.75" backspace with low profile tires. These are transit style rims offered by summit. I want the raw ones then i will powder coat them black with the edge coated white.
Thoughts?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok, i am ready to buy rims and after much consideration, i think im going with a set of "20 x 9" and 4.75" backspace for the rears and then for the fronts 20"x 8.5 and 3.75" backspace with low profile tires. These are transit style rims offered by summit. I want the raw ones then i will powder coat them black with the edge coated white.
Thoughts?

Unfamiliar w/the wheel choice.
Personally not liking the BS listed on the front option but it would likely work/function.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Unfamiliar w/the wheel choice.
Personally not liking the BS listed on the front option but it would likely work/function.

Thank you for the feedback. My issue is they offer the 20" in those sizes.
My spindles are 2.5" cop, I'm running tubular upper and lower control arms for bags, stock size but upgraded 1972 front disc conversion.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Thank you for the feedback. My issue is they offer the 20" in those sizes.
My spindles are 2.5" cop, I'm running tubular upper and lower control arms for bags, stock size but upgraded 1972 front disc conversion.

This is why I stick to steelies & 15" tires. Most mass produced wheels that are affordable have very generic sizing. They work on vehicles that are close to stock height but not so much on anything beyond.

My estimate is you're front wheels will be similarly placed as the ones in the pic from Post #18-19...

[joesscamaro]

I have a question related to the original post and didn’t want to create a new thread. I figured it could help being here. I’m trying to buy wheels for my ‘65 and need to take the proper measurements first. Problem is, I don’t have brakes yet due to the fact that I don’t know if I can fit the wheels I want on my stock width 12 bolt. If I can, I’ll buy disc brakes for the 12 bolt and take my measurements. If not, I plan to buy a narrowed 9” and buy brakes to fit. I’m new to this, so how do I figure this out?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by joesscamaro

I have a question related to the original post and didn’t want to create a new thread. I figured it could help being here. I’m trying to buy wheels for my ‘65 and need to take the proper measurements first. Problem is, I don’t have brakes yet due to the fact that I don’t know if I can fit the wheels I want on my stock width 12 bolt. If I can, I’ll buy disc brakes for the 12 bolt and take my measurements. If not, I plan to buy a narrowed 9” and buy brakes to fit. I’m new to this, so how do I figure this out?

Ok.... Lots of unknowns.

Let's start w/what you want (what you're wanting to accomplish)? Is there a certain look you want? Certain diameter?

[joesscamaro]

For the rear I'm wanting to go with the Raceline Classico in a 20x14 with the MT Sportsman SR 29x15 tire. I have disc brakes on the front already and can get the measurements I need...so I'm not too concerned about that. Mainly talking about the rear.