I can't be the only one confused about 2nd design bolts!

[fastlane]

I'm building an lq4 and replacing the stock TTY bolts with stock bolts. Problem is I can't get the old conrod bolts out. I don't want to smash-whack them out, if I slip I ruin the fractured rod surface. Any Ideas? And no, new forged rods with ARP bolts isn't an option! That'll feed my kids for a month and a half!

[CarlsLQ9SS]

Originally Posted by fastlane

I'm building an lq4 and replacing the stock TTY bolts with stock bolts. Problem is I can't get the old conrod bolts out. I don't want to smash-whack them out, if I slip I ruin the fractured rod surface. Any Ideas? And no, new forged rods with ARP bolts isn't an option! That'll feed my kids for a month and a half!

The connecting rod bolts are not TTY bolts are they? I thought the only TTY bolts on a LS engine was the head bolts. I have never replaced the rod bolts in these engines, but if you want to change them you may be able to clamp them down in a vice to get them out.

[mongocanfly]

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/...nes-need-know/

Copied this

Which LS Fasteners are TTY?
On a GM LS engine, the cylinder head bolts are TTY and cannot be re-used.

The connecting rod bolts are also TTY, but can be tightened up to three times for bearing checking.

The balancer bolt is also a torque-to-yield fastener.

[LS short box]

And if I recall correctly if you replace the rod bolts with aftermarket you have to resize the con rods because the new bolts tighten differently. Check over on LS1tech.

[AZ 67 C10]

Pull 1 bolt out, put new bolt in and torque. Do that 16 times. Many people have done it this way with no issues on a stock bottom end. This is assuming you don't have the bottom end torn apart.

Why are you wanting to replace the bolts in the first place? Stock bolts are fine if you don't see >6500rpm consistently. ARP rod bolts are around $100, and I see no need for forged rods unless you're after huge HP.

[fastlane]

Originally Posted by AZ 67 C10

Pull 1 bolt out, put new bolt in and torque. Do that 16 times. Many people have done it this way with no issues on a stock bottom end. This is assuming you don't have the bottom end torn apart.

Why are you wanting to replace the bolts in the first place? Stock bolts are fine if you don't see >6500rpm consistently. ARP rod bolts are around $100, and I see no need for forged rods unless you're after huge HP.

Sorry, I must have been unclear. The engine is completely tore apart. It's awaiting a boring of. 030 to receive +4cc pistons.

The problem is, the bolts don't just come out. There is some sort of sleeve on the shaft of said bolt and pressed into the cap off the conrod.

My question is had anyone else delt with this and what did you do?

[mongocanfly]

Found this video... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=F8ISw9Q3CrU
He just basically screws the bolt out..

[71cadc10]

tap with a plastic mallet they will knock out.
use soft face something so you don't affect the fractured surface