Bed removal

[65chevysub]

This is a strange question but it's the only way I can do the project. Can I remove the bed on my 84 Sierra one piece at a time, and which piece do I remove first? I need to replace the front bed panel, but also want to clean the chassis, and replace the original rubber fuel lines and sending unit. I dont have any help to get the bed off in one piece.
Thanks

[Pontiac1976]

I know for sure that 75 is full bolt un-bolt bed if needed. I not sure how far up they went pretty sure 84 has some panels that have some spot welds but are for the most part bolt new ones in. I think if you look around the tale gate area's you see for sure.
You can try the area's see if come out then look for spot weld if it not to badly rusted you or to much paint on them they show easy.
Maybe some other know how far passed 75 they went.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

You can do it but it would be exceedingly frustrating. As a few of the bolts will be blocked by the cab or frame, and the bed will have to be pulled back a foot for room.

A cherry picker with truckers rope can easily lift a bed so you can drive out from underneath it. Then 6 buckets make a decent holder for it while you pull it apart. Liberly soak the bolts in PB blaster for a day or two to help. Also a impact gun, amd a mapp gas torch will come in handy.

[mongocanfly]

I've removed beds by myself before...remove all bed2frame bolts, set some sawhorses behind the truck, and you can "walk" the bed off the frame onto the sawhorses...I've also seen people use engine hoists and ratchet straps to remove a bed...if you dont have a engine hoist ,you can rent one
I know you said you dont have help, but 4 people can lift one off in a matter of minutes...

[Dead Parrot]

IIRC - there are a couple of spot welds back by the tailgate. Most everything else are bolts. The problem is a lot of the bolts are going to be nearly impossible to get to without pulling the bed or at least sliding it several inches to the rear. And a lot of those bolts/nuts are probably rusted to the point of having to twist shear the bolt to get it off.

I was able to replace the tank hoses on my 75 by sliding the bed to the rear. A hungry mouse had sampled both suction hoses on a dual tank setup. Not sure the senders will clear the cab as I didn't replace those.

Sliding the bed is doable by yourself.

Can you somehow obtain an engine cherry picker? Those are supposed to be able to pick the bed off the frame.

[65chevysub]

Thanks everyone. The one thing I forgot to mention is my apartment has a dirt/rock driveway. I'll try the sawhorse trick and slide it back on to them. My topper is sitting on them right now but it will be moved in a couple weeks. Pic is of my truck with topper on.

[Getter-Done]

Remove tailgate.
Remove rear bumper.
Disconnect taillight harness.
Check if rear axle vent tube is clamped to the bed(still).
Use a wrench (Ratcheting wrench would be nice) and remove bolts that hold front bed panel to fenders.
Grind welds on rear bed post (check out link in video below)
Disconnect the fuel filler neck.
Then take all the bolts out of the side fenders.
Take side fenders off.
Then remove the bed floor bolts.
Then remove floor.

Link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywSQ9lUSeWs











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[Dead Parrot]

Add to the list above:
Start spraying any bolts/nuts with penetrating oil several days before the planed removal.
Have a large rock, heavy tool box, etc to set on the heads of the bed bolts to keep them from raising out of the holes and spinning as you loosen the nuts. The bed bolts are carriage bolts and if you strip out the square hole in the bed or the square on the bolt, the removal job gets a lot harder.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Add to the list above:
Start spraying any bolts/nuts with penetrating oil several days before the planed removal.
Have a large rock, heavy tool box, etc to set on the heads of the bed bolts to keep them from raising out of the holes and spinning as you loosen the nuts. The bed bolts are carriage bolts and if you strip out the square hole in the bed or the square on the bolt, the removal job gets a lot harder.

You got that Right

Spray only the nut on the carriage bed bolts.
That way is the bolts are stuck in the bed they will stay there.(Maybe)












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[1976gmc20]

When I pulled the bed off my 73 many years ago, I cut a couple pieces of 4x4 (?) just long enough to fit cross-ways under the bed rails. Then I lifted it with chains from a forklift. I know you don't have a forklift, but you could use an engine hoist, a stout tree limb, or rig up some sort of gallows out of scrap wood.

[44th Miss Inf]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

When I pulled the bed off my 73 many years ago, I cut a couple pieces of 4x4 (?) just long enough to fit cross-ways under the bed rails. Then I lifted it with chains from a forklift. I know you don't have a forklift, but you could use an engine hoist, a stout tree limb, or rig up some sort of gallows out of scrap wood.

I have done it this way for years myself. Only thing I (now) do extra is remove the tailgate, so I can use the pallet forks on the front end loader of my tractor.,

I have done cinder blocks and 4x4 also, by myself (really helps to have someone add blocks while you hold up one side) and driven/rolled the truck out from under the bed.

[wraprail]

This is how I did mine.
Remove tailgate.
The wheel wells, wheel house have a ton of bolts and can be removed first thing. Like 2 on each end, 8 connecting to the floor and a bunch connecting to the bed side. Then push down and out after removing tires.
Then you can do the bed sides. 3 or 4 bolts connect to front bed panel. spot welds by tailgate. My swb has 3 bolts in front and behind wheel house connecting side to floor.
Then you have some brackets and braces that all bolt on. Once you get the sides off is easy to handle the floor with front panel attached by yourself
Good luck

[old Rusty C10]

easiest way to remove the bed is four eye bolts through the stake pockets with straps and a motor hoist.. for good measure i stick a rolled up moving blanket bu the lower rear panel so it doesnt smash into the hoist's hydraulic boom

[LT7A]

Lots of good info here already, so I won't add to it. But I will say, you got a clean truck, and about to get cleaner! Good luck!