77 K10 - rear leaf spring shackle

[Dleslie212]

Does anybody know where to find a set of rear leaf spring shackles that aren’t for lifting/lowering, and that don’t already have bushings installed? I bent mine pretty good trying to hammer the bushing sleeve out of it this morning, and I already have a brand new set of red poly bushings so I don’t want the Dorman set that have rubber in them. I’ve checked Jegs and Summit already

Edit - I found these on ORD website. Doesn’t anyone know if they should work?

https://www.offroaddesign.com/catalo.../category/653/

[THI]

Yes they will work, I used them on my 1978 Camper Special, heavy duty compared to the stock ones.

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by THI

Yes they will work, I used them on my 1978 Camper Special, heavy duty compared to the stock ones.

Awesome. Any idea if the price shown is for a single or for a pair?

[sweetk30]

ord is a SUPER company . what you see in the pic is what you get . note the description says PAIR

those will be just fine and a solid upgrade over the tin stamped stockers .

all the years i have been buying from them i should have stock options in the company .

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

ord is a SUPER company . what you see in the pic is what you get . note the description says PAIR

those will be just fine and a solid upgrade over the tin stamped stockers .

all the years i have been buying from them i should have stock options in the company .

Totally missed the word PAIR. Thanks

[KQQL IT]

Their steering box brace is a nice way to tighten up the front end too.
Made a big difference on my C10

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Their steering box brace is a nice way to tighten up the front end too.
Made a big difference on my C10

What kind of difference?

I just got finished completely redoing my front end and the 20 or so miles I've driven it before I started the rear felt really nice

Somebody must have replaced some stuff on the front before, because all that stuff, the bushings and what not, came apart like cake compared to my rear. What a nightmare taking the rear apart has been so far. I've had to cut out every single leaf spring bolt so far on BOTH sides of the bold... They are completely seized inside the bushing pins. So I can't even just cut the nut side off and slide the bolt through

[KQQL IT]

Tightened up the feel?
After watching the frame move when someone else sawed on the wheel was almost alarming. Now it doesn't move and just feels better.

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Tightened up the feel?
After watching the frame move when someone else sawed on the wheel was almost alarming. Now it doesn't move and just feels better.

Yes the feel especially going over bumps. The steering has felt like butter since I bought it. I can literally steer with my pinky, and I'm on 35s

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

ord is a SUPER company . what you see in the pic is what you get . note the description says PAIR

those will be just fine and a solid upgrade over the tin stamped stockers .

all the years i have been buying from them i should have stock options in the company .

The new shackles just came in the mail today. Where the end of the shackle slips over the end of the leaf spring, there's about a 1/4" gap on either side, like the shackle is too wide. The new poly bushings don't make contact with the inside of the shackle. How big of a problem is this? Should I get a different shackle? I spent 70 bucks on these after shipping, I'd rather not just trash them

[Dleslie212]

I’m wondering if I can use washers between the inside of the shackle and outside of the poly bushing on both sides to make up the difference? Pretty much using washers linke shims?

[cadillac_al]

That's the only thing I can think of. Why not call ORD and ask them why they are wider and what other people do with them. good luck

[Dead Parrot]

I looked at my 75 C10 and 84 CUCV/K30 and both have similar gaps in the rear shackle where the spring fits. The gaps between the bushings and shackle is fairly small but there is light on both ends. There is more gap between the spring and shackle.

Could be a design feature to allow the springs to not bind when the frame flexes.

I will try to post up a pic later. It is raining here now.

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

I looked at my 75 C10 and 84 CUCV/K30 and both have similar gaps in the rear shackle where the spring fits. The gaps between the bushings and shackle is fairly small but there is light on both ends. There is more gap between the spring and shackle.

Could be a design feature to allow the springs to not bind when the frame flexes.

I will try to post up a pic later. It is raining here now.

Would you suggest leaving the gap then? I'm afraid it'll allow too much side to side movement of the spring, if that's even a thing

[Dead Parrot]

Here are a couple of pics of the CUCV shackle. The gaps on the C10 rear shackles were similar.

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Here are a couple of pics of the CUCV shackle. The gaps on the C10 rear shackles were similar.

It looks like your bushings are at least touching the inside of the shackle there. Mine are still a 1/4" gap on either side, where all you would see is the bolt coming thru

[pound41]

I put a new lift kit on my 72 blazer used the poly bushing that came with the kit. Drove like a dog. Finally figured out the poly bushing in the the shackle are not biting into the shackle like the oem ones do. if you stand on the rear bumper and jump up and you can see the shackle move. This is allowing the rear end and spring to move when I apply the brakes or turn. Have an old oem set that I will switch back to

[Dead Parrot]

If your spring to shackle gap is similar to the picts, you probably have a good set of shackles. Might give the vendor a call on the bushings and verify how much gap there should be between the bushings and shackles. Possible some shipping person grabbed the wrong set of bushings when packing your box. (Or a stock person miss binned the bushings when they came in from the factory).

The bushings in my pic are most likely the factory original set.

[Dleslie212]

I went ahead and drilled the holes in the shackle to allow for the 9/16" bolt and then put two 1 1/2" diameter grade 8 washers on either side of the bushing. I guess we'll see how it goes when I finally finish the differential and drop it back down.

[pound41]

The factory ones when new the metal sleeve stuck out just past the rubber and had a sawtooth pattern on the end. my guess to grab onto the shackle.