"Bourbon" 1975 Suburban Scottsdale

[ShortHaul]

Originally Posted by RotaryRocketeer

Good score on a sweet truck! Quite the test drive. You really don't mess around getting work done on it either. Any plans for a drivetrain swap?

Thank you! Yeah there’s a couple things I had to jam on right away... wheels are next, just got em back from powdercoat and tires are on order.

As far as drivetrain... I really do want to LSx and a 4l80 or even 6L80 Trans. The whole plan behind this rig is for it to be a “do it all” family hauler. Hop in and go, whether it’s 5 minutes to school or ice cream, or 2000 mile road trip towing the trailer to Yellowstone, Tetons and Rocky Mountains... I want it to be able to do all that without complaint, with the AC blasting.

So yes, the long story short is that I do hope to swap it. I love the big block, and it’s originality. I have been thinking I may pull it and rebuild, then swap it into my C20 Sweet Pea so it doesn’t go to waste!

I put a 6.0L lq4 in my 62 Impala and I LOVE it. So I’m a definite believer in the LS power... just gotta work out the details, and start putting the pennies aside for the parts!

[RotaryRocketeer]

Nice! Sounds like you've got a solid plan for an already great truck. Can't wait to see the end result.

[ShortHaul]

New Shoes!! Finally got my Wheel Vintiques 16x8's back from powdercoat! Had em mounted up with General Grabber ATX 265/75/16's. Love it! Just waiting on a set of hubcaps to arrive from Ebay...

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[swissarmychainsaw]

Glad you finally got to pick up the Burb, I know it was a LONG wait!

Now, get that AC fired up! :-)

[ShortHaul]

Originally Posted by swissarmychainsaw

Glad you finally got to pick up the Burb, I know it was a LONG wait!

Now, get that AC fired up! :-)

So... on that note... bad news. Went by my local shop and had them take a look, as the AC components are all in place. Mechanic says I have a bad condenser AND bad accumulator. Booooo! He quoted around $1300 to repair. Which I laughed heartily at and walked away.

But it does tell me that I’m probably going to wait on fixing the Ac until I get the drivetrain swap under way.

[v30crewcab]

Thats pretty sweet.

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by ShortHaul

So... on that note... bad news. Went by my local shop and had them take a look, as the AC components are all in place. Mechanic says I have a bad condenser AND bad accumulator. Booooo! He quoted around $1300 to repair. Which I laughed heartily at and walked away.

But it does tell me that I’m probably going to wait on fixing the Ac until I get the drivetrain swap under way.

What are you putting in for a drive train?
I had $1500 in *parts for my AC build. It's not cheap, but its worth it (and I know two things: 1. You live where its hot 2. you have a wife and kids!)
:-)

[RyanAK]

Oh man. Sorry to hear, pal. I just did a compressor and accumulator on my ‘78. Was quoted a similar dollar amount. Decided to wrench on it on my own and have a friend draw the vacuum and charge it. The accumulator is cheap enough. The only ones I could find at the time need a second part to make the bend in the tube to mate up with the a/c lines. Summit has the tube. But I think LMC has stock 1-piece accumulators. Like $30. Literally two fittings and two screws to swap. 30 mins top.

A quick look shows a stock-style condenser for rear air trucks for $100-$250. A bit of a PITA to swap, but not too bad. Depending on your engine swap, both of these things can stay.

Orifice tube and other misc parts, add $50. Then get it drawn down and charged. Done.

My Burb has front air only and I’m surprised how well it does in the 90*+ humid heat here in Pennsylvania. The chainsaw essentially rebuilt and added rear air in his rig. In your situation I’d swap the condenser and accumulator. As said... you have a wife and kids!

(Local billboard here: “Your wife is HOT! Fix your A/C!”)

[ShortHaul]

Originally Posted by swissarmychainsaw

What are you putting in for a drive train?
I had $1500 in *parts for my AC build. It's not cheap, but its worth it (and I know two things: 1. You live where its hot 2. you have a wife and kids!)
:-)

Pretty sure I'll be going LS... tried and true platform. Considered Diesel, since this rig is going to be a long hauler/travel trailer towing family mobile as well as an around-towner... but hp/tq per dollar I'm having a hard time justifying diesel...

Originally Posted by RyanAK

Oh man. Sorry to hear, pal. I just did a compressor and accumulator on my ‘78. Was quoted a similar dollar amount. Decided to wrench on it on my own and have a friend draw the vacuum and charge it. The accumulator is cheap enough. The only ones I could find at the time need a second part to make the bend in the tube to mate up with the a/c lines. Summit has the tube. But I think LMC has stock 1-piece accumulators. Like $30. Literally two fittings and two screws to swap. 30 mins top.

A quick look shows a stock-style condenser for rear air trucks for $100-$250. A bit of a PITA to swap, but not too bad. Depending on your engine swap, both of these things can stay.

Orifice tube and other misc parts, add $50. Then get it drawn down and charged. Done.

My Burb has front air only and I’m surprised how well it does in the 90*+ humid heat here in Pennsylvania. The chainsaw essentially rebuilt and added rear air in his rig. In your situation I’d swap the condenser and accumulator. As said... you have a wife and kids!

(Local billboard here: “Your wife is HOT! Fix your A/C!”)

Good intel as always Ryan, I appreciate it. And I love the billboard ad

I stumbled upon Chainsaw's AC thread and after reading a few pages of it I felt like Russel Crowe in "A Beautiful Mind". AC stuff is foreign to me... I can't help but be tempted to just take the easier route and go Vintage Air, but like i said, AC is still pretty far down the importance list. Hell I still need mirrors!

[Ryan Hubbard]

I went through my A/C on my suburban a few years ago but I got most of my parts at RockAuto.com.

I put in a new condensor, evaporator and all new hoses except the ones to the back a/c unit. It has work well over the years.

I am actually just transfering over the R4 compressor to my LS3 because I don't want to mess with the A/C when changing engines.

[ShortHaul]

Got my roof rack installed finally! Big thanks to Jeff AZpartslocator for selling it to me, and Missburban1977 for hooking up some helpful pictures and tips on install... It was pretty nerve racking drilling the giant 3/8" holes into the perfectly good roof... but in the end I'm really happy with how it turned out.

I lined up the rack based on photos from MissBurban1977, marked the locations and got busy drilling. I used a Nutsert tool to drop 1/4-20 threaded inserts into the roof skin, then lined the rack over the nutserts and luckily my aim was good... The only hangup was I had two nutserts not seat properly so they spin in the their hole. GRRR. Someday I'll have the headliner out and I can grab on to them from the inside and thread the bolts in properly, but until then 10/12 bolts isn't terrible. I really don't plan on putting much up there, mostly for the look...

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Untitled by awesome_adawson, on Flickr

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Live action shots!
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The Nutserts...
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[ShortHaul]

Also scored this little beauty! Nice to have an armrest and a place to keep some road sodas nice n frosty. Color scheme fits the Burb perfectly!

Untitled by awesome_adawson, on Flickr

Untitled by awesome_adawson, on Flickr

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I used the bolt & nut method after more than one instance where there isn't room for the tool pictured & the smaller rivet-gun style of tool wore my hand out after the 2nd or 3rd insert. Then, while @ my local 'premium' hardware outlet Elliott's, I found a set-up that's like the nut/bolt method but is easier to use. They were about $10 for each size needed.

Just to follow up on this.... I was asked in a PM about what I used/found @ my local 'premium' hardware joint. Here is an image of the set-up. I purchase one for each size I commonly use (1/4", 5/16, & 3/8). The nut-sert goes into the panel (keep the hole small enough so the inserts serrated edges grip the metal). The die slips over the bolt. Thread the bolt into the inset. As the bolt tightens, the die helps keep the insert from moving while it collapses the insert 'barrel'. They were less than $10 for each size. I put a dab of anti-seize on the bolt threads to prolong the thread life.

[Factory Guy]

Nice score with the 'burb.

Looking Good.

I am thinking about an LS Swap as well for mine. You might want to consider doing a Vintage air kit for your A/C, as you get a complete kit (all new stuff for right at $1500). That includes new condenser, Evap, compressor, lines, switches and a small HVAC box which will completely fit under your dash and you can eliminate that huge black box on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

My A/C just went out as well. So that is the route I am planning to go (Vintage Air). Plus the VA unit is modern so it will probably even cool better than these old units.

[LT7A]

Started a thread on the nutserts here:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=810970

Thought we had discussed it enough in your thread. Thanks for your patience.

LT7A

[ShortHaul]

Finally got mirrors!!

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Untitled by awesome_adawson, on Flickr

Untitled by awesome_adawson, on Flickr

Untitled by awesome_adawson, on Flickr

[Corts60]

Very cool rig! I myself just scored a low mileage suburban for the family. And we all love it as well!

As for the a/c, considering parts cost for a condenser and accumulator (probably $400 your cost) and labor to evacuate and charge, $1300 is a good deal. If you're not handy with HVAC, it'll be worth the price to have them change it out. OR, purchase the condenser yourself and have them install it and save on the mark up. I just rebuilt the a/c system myself on my '67 and have over $1k in parts alone to replace condenser, compressor, accumulator, refrigerant, etc. I did all the work myself though as I have my EPA license.

Just a thought.

Great story on the cruise home. I've been to all the places you've visited as I lived in the PNW for 18 years before moving to the midwest last year. I miss all the beauty!

[ShortHaul]

Originally Posted by Factory Guy

Nice score with the 'burb.

Looking Good.

I am thinking about an LS Swap as well for mine. You might want to consider doing a Vintage air kit for your A/C, as you get a complete kit (all new stuff for right at $1500). That includes new condenser, Evap, compressor, lines, switches and a small HVAC box which will completely fit under your dash and you can eliminate that huge black box on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

My A/C just went out as well. So that is the route I am planning to go (Vintage Air). Plus the VA unit is modern so it will probably even cool better than these old units.

I feel like your truck is too original for a LS!! And I hear ya on Vintage Air. A buddy of mine has it in his Chevelle and K5 and swears by it.

[ShortHaul]

Been a little absent here lately... Haven't done a whole heck of a lot to Bourbon recently, a new set of spark plugs, a few plug wires changed, scored a sweet vintage cooler that matches real well! Other than that I've been driving her quite a bit...

Family crusier!
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Scored this rad Thermos cooler for free-fifty free on some guy's driveway. Matches pretty darn good
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[Corts60]

Very Sweet!

I have a random question: you brought your burb into Cali from out of state, correct? How did Cali deal with the federal emissions? Do they make you put on the California stuff. I've always wondered if I ever moved back there if I would be able to bring my classics with me.

[ShortHaul]

Originally Posted by Corts60

Very Sweet!

I have a random question: you brought your burb into Cali from out of state, correct? How did Cali deal with the federal emissions? Do they make you put on the California stuff. I've always wondered if I ever moved back there if I would be able to bring my classics with me.

Correct, I purchased this Burb in Washington. Since it’s a 1975 it is smog exempt in CA so I didn’t have to do a thing. Smog laws in CA are pretty gnarly, so I stick to 75 and earlier to avoid the headache. If it is a 76 or newer, they do require you to have the vehicle pass emissions in order to be registered. There are probably threads on the subject itself, but far as I know it will have to pass a visual test (all factory smog equipment must be present) a tailpipe sniffer test and a fuel tank leak test (where they check for leaking vapors from your fuel tank)

All that stuff scares the hell out of me so I avoid smog era vehicles like the plague.

There is a helpful website called asktheref.org that puts you in touch with a smog referee, and they can answer detailed questions about your vehicles and what requirements they would face.

[Corts60]

OK awesome. Thanks!

[ShortHaul]

Doing her towing duties a while back...

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And all set up for show at a local car meet up.
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[SCOTI]

The chairs & cooler are spot-on!

[ShortHaul]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The chairs & cooler are spot-on!

Thanks! Definitely going for that "period correct" vibe Lotta orange and brown going on in the mid 70's!