Advice on tire size and 3-4” drop

[Asshat]

Brothers Truck catalog recommends a 3” front drop and a 4” rear drop; they have coil springs for the drop; 1963 C20.

I am going with 16” rims instead of the 16.5 stock wheels.

Would like to get some recommendations on tires size and if the 3” front, 4” rear drop will work for my truck. Pros/cons?

The pic shows how my truck looks sitting with the stock 16.5 wheels and tires.

Seriously considering the purchase of these springs and doing this drop

What do you guys think?

[AcampoDave]

Most of us are only accustom to dropping half tons myself included. If it were a half ton I would encourage you to use drop spindles in the front as 3 inches removes the majority of your suspension travel essentially putting it on the bump stops. 4 inches in back will have some effect on shock angle and stroke but would be just up to the limit of where you would need additional mods....remember whether its a half ton or bigger.....the lower you go, the more $$$ you need to spend to do it right.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Brothers Truck catalog recommends a 3” front drop and a 4” rear drop; they have coil springs for the drop; 1963 C20.

I am going with 16” rims instead of the 16.5 stock wheels.

Would like to get some recommendations on tires size and if the 3” front, 4” rear drop will work for my truck. Pros/cons?

The pic shows how my truck looks sitting with the stock 16.5 wheels and tires.

Seriously considering the purchase of these springs and doing this drop

What do you guys think?

What is the current tire size on the 16.5's?
Do you like their size or would you do things different if given the option?

That being said, I would keep the rear spring as tall as possible & go w/a lowering block for some of the drop (2" drop coil + 2" blocks). Yes, it's slightly more expensive but it helps keep the shock angle changes to a minimum.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What is the current tire size on the 16.5's?
Do you like their size or would you do things different if given the option?

That being said, I would keep the rear spring as tall as possible & go w/a lowering block for some of the drop (2" drop coil + 2" blocks). Yes, it's slightly more expensive but it helps keep the shock angle changes to a minimum.

I picked up some 16” wheels. Thinking about using the 2” drop springs/shocks in front and 3” drop springs/shocks in rear. Then maybe front 205-60-16 and rear 235-60-16. Or, maybe same size tire front and rear.
What do you think?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I picked up some 16” wheels. Thinking about using the 2” drop springs/shocks in front and 3” drop springs/shocks in rear. Then maybe front 205-60-16 and rear 235-60-16. Or, maybe same size tire front and rear.
What do you think?

Thinking about using the 2” drop springs/shocks in front

Might not need drop shocks for just a 2" spring. You want to keep the shock as long as possible. Are those 'drop shocks' shorter? Stock length but re-valved?
YOU need this info to make an informed decision. Without it, you're buying generic parts.

and 3” drop springs/shocks in rear.

Springs ok. Shocks? Same as the front. Are they just shorter or stock length & re-valved?

Then maybe front 205-60-16 and rear 235-60-16. Or, maybe same size tire front and rear.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

*What is the current tire size on the 16.5's?
*Do you like their size

Tire sizing can compliment or kill a change in suspension height. Really need answers/info to help you make informed decisions. "Do you like their size" tells us do you like their height or are they way to tall.

The rears for the C10 generation trucks are typically 2" higher vs. the front. So, 'level' drops typically follow those numbers: 1/3; 2/4; 3/5; 4/6; 4/7".
A 2/3 drop could yield a slightly noticed rake ESPECIALLY w/different size F/R tires.

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I picked up some 16” wheels. Thinking about using the 2” drop springs/shocks in front and 3” drop springs/shocks in rear. Then maybe front 205-60-16 and rear 235-60-16. Or, maybe same size tire front and rear.
What do you think?

Sounds good. It will bring it down without it looking "obviously lowered" and you will still be able to slide under it for impromptu repairs. You coluld always add a block kit to the rear later if you decide you want it down a bit more.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Might not need drop shocks for just a 2" spring. You want to keep the shock as long as possible. Are those 'drop shocks' shorter? Stock length but re-valved?
YOU need this info to make an informed decision. Without it, you're buying generic parts.

Springs ok. Shocks? Same as the front. Are they just shorter or stock length & re-valved?

Tire sizing can compliment or kill a change in suspension height. Really need answers/info to help you make informed decisions. "Do you like their size" tells us do you like their height or are they way to tall.

The rears for the C10 generation trucks are typically 2" higher vs. the front. So, 'level' drops typically follow those numbers: 1/3; 2/4; 3/5; 4/6; 4/7".
A 2/3 drop could yield a slightly noticed rake ESPECIALLY w/different size F/R tires.

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Sounds good. It will bring it down without it looking "obviously lowered" and you will still be able to slide under it for impromptu repairs. You coluld always add a block kit to the rear later if you decide you want it down a bit more.

Brothers Truck Supply sells springs and shocks to match the drop. They recommend a 3 / 4 drop, however, that may be too much and I don’t really want to notch it. Not sure what that involves.

Another truck I saw for sale has a 2 / 4 drop, and to me, it doesn’t look right.

Attaching a pic of the catalog page and the other truck.
That truck has the 2/4 drop and front 205-60-16 and rear 235-60-16.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Brothers Truck Supply soles springs and shocks to match the drop. They recommend a 3 / 4 drop, however, that may be too much and I don’t really want to notch it. Not sure what that involves.

Another truck I saw for sale has a 2 / 4 drop, and to me, it doesn’t look right.

Attaching a pic of the catalog page and the other truck.
That truck has the 2/4 drop and front 205-60-16 and rear 235-60-16.

Ask Brothers for technical info.... any technical info for either the shocks or the spring rates.

If you like that truck & it's using Brothers parts then go for it.

[Asshat]

What do you guys think of using a P-rated tire on the C20? I know if I go into a tire shop they would say, that tire doesn't fit your truck. I just do not want an all-terrain tire on my truck. And, I'm not that worried about the speed rating, its not like I will be doing 80-90mph on the freeway.

So, I'm thinking of just picking up four 235/60-16 tires - what do you guys think?

[AcampoDave]

My '66 and '64 half tons have P235/75/15 tires and P225/35/15 tires. I've always understood the "P" to mean "passenger vehicle so always figured it's okay because I just pretty much use them as such. Every now again I might haul a load to the dump but nothing too heavy. I suppose I were going to work it harder I would step up to LT but I have a 2017 Silverado for the hard work

[AcampoDave]

One more thing Mr. Hat, as to the Brothers 3/4 recomendation....i would be more concerned about removing 3" of travel from the front springs than 4" out back. My half ton has a 2" drop spring in front and it does hit the stops now and again. I wouldn't want an even shorter spring because there just simply isn't enough travel to spare.

[cwcarpenter98]

I have P tires on my truck right now. I'm not sure if it's my lead foot, P tires on a half ton truck, or a combination of both that seems to have worn the tires out much quicker than they should have. Probably a combination of both, but I'll be going with a light truck tire next go around. I also don't want an A/T tire as I don't take the truck off road enough to justify them. I do a lot of street miles and a fair amount of highway miles with plans to do more highway miles once I get some A/C in it, so I'll be going with a LT highway tire

[short&wide65]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

I have P tires on my truck right now. I'm not sure if it's my lead foot, P tires on a half ton truck, or a combination of both that seems to have worn the tires out much quicker than they should have. Probably a combination of both, but I'll be going with a light truck tire next go around. I also don't want an A/T tire as I don't take the truck off road enough to justify them. I do a lot of street miles and a fair amount of highway miles with plans to do more highway miles once I get some A/C in it, so I'll be going with a LT highway tire

There are way too many variables to say definitively that was the cause for quicker wear. A P tire versus an LT tire doesn't automatically mean more wear as different tires have different treadwear ratings.

[pdxhall]

I've studied and measured for new wheels and tires for weeks. I have finally found the right combination for me. I've got 17"x8" wheels and the tires are 225x50rx17 and the rears are 245x60rx17. I've got the wheels and the front tires arrived yesterday. Not mounted yet. The rear tires will be here Friday. I have 2 1/2 inch drop spindles and 1" drop springs in front and 5" drop springs in back.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Asshat

What do you guys think of using a P-rated tire on the C20? I know if I go into a tire shop they would say, that tire doesn't fit your truck. I just do not want an all-terrain tire on my truck. And, I'm not that worried about the speed rating, its not like I will be doing 80-90mph on the freeway.

So, I'm thinking of just picking up four 235/60-16 tires - what do you guys think?

My initial plan is to just get some tires for it with the stock suspension. If I decide to do the drop, it will be some time in the future.

I'm thinking the 235/60-16s will look too small, they are 3" less in diameter than the stock tires.

I guess I could look for some used tires, for the mean-time, just to get it rolling and see how she drives. Maybe the 70 or 75 series tires would suffice.

I'm just worried about getting a 60 series tire and it looking weird with the gap between the fender and tire. Might look goofy. What do you guys think?

[AcampoDave]

I agree with you. I'm old school with my classics and I like the tires to have a decent sidewall. I tried the big wheel small tire thing once on a Tacoma. The ride sucked and the tires wore out quickly. I sold "em after that and put the factory ones back on.

[G8rN@te61]

I have 235/75/15 on my truck with a static 3" drop. 3" springs in rear and dialed down torsion up front. The rear wheel arch is about 1" above the whitewall. It has a nice stance I wish I had done the 4" drop.

[Justin71105]

Installed a 3/5 drop on my 64 C10, spindles in front and coils in rear along with shock relocation brackets and a C notch. Just put the wheel on it to see what it looked like after finally getting the bed back on. Will be running 235/60/17 soft 8s or D windows on it....havent decided quite yet which one.

The one pictured is a 15x8 rally with 235/70/15 so should be near identical height to my new wheels/tires.

[Asshat]

Picked up some tires yesterday, 236/65-16. Rated as an LT tire.
Didn’t drop it on the ground yet, still need to get the exhaust squared away.

Thinking about powder coating the hubcaps red.

[Asshat]

This thing has been up on jack stands for months. First time hitting the floor with the tires and wheels. Going to try and drive it tomorrow, and get some better pics.

[Asshat]

It starts up, with choke real quick. Idles well. Major noise from driveline. Sounds like the driveshaft maybe? Can’t really tell.
And, the motor smokes when accelerating. When it was idling it also smoked, but it didn’t seem like it was coming out of the tailpipe. I think most of the smoke at idle was oil burning off the manifold, had a valve cover gasket leak.
Guess it’s time to pull the drive train.

[cwcarpenter98]

Nice! If you have a 2 piece drive shaft, good chance the carrier bearing is taking a one way trip to the scrap heap

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

Nice! If you have a 2 piece drive shaft, good chance the carrier bearing is taking a one way trip to the scrap heap

I did replace that, but the u-joints are pretty old. Maybe I should drop the trans and replace the clutch too.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I did replace that, but the u-joints are pretty old. Maybe I should drop the trans and replace the clutch too.

Well, I crawled underneath it an quickly determined one of the ujoints was really bad. So, I replaced all three. And, the major clatter I heard is gone, however, there’s still a grinding noise coming from the transmission cover. I figure this is probably the throw-out bearing. The noise went away when I pushed in the clutch.
Definitely gotta drop the transmission.

[AcampoDave]

Throw out bearings make noise when you press in the clutch. How is the oil level in the trans?