Rear Coil Spring removal?

[kens65fb]

I'm about to install rear drop springs in my 64.

I was able to remove the upper coil spring retainer and bolt without too much trouble, but the lower retainer gave me fits.

I raised the frame to get the tension of the spring, and it was clear by about an inch.

I was not able to get a socket on the lower bolt as it was partially recessed into the control arm, is this normal?

Should there be a washer between the bolt and the control arm

How do you remove the lower retainer??

[roll_the_dice]

I've been thinking of changing my springs too and it always looks easy, but 50+ years of those bolts hanging on makes it tough I am sure. I am sure you have seen this, but you can see he struggled too...spring removal starts at around the 3:15 mark.

chevy c10 4''drop on rear - YouTube

[kens65fb]

Originally Posted by roll_the_dice

I've been thinking of changing my springs too and it always looks easy, but 50+ years of those bolts hanging on makes it tough I am sure. I am sure you have seen this, but you can see he struggled too...spring removal starts at around the 3:15 mark.

chevy c10 4''drop on rear - YouTube

I did watch that video, and he was able to get a socket on the bottom bolt.
The bottom bolts on my springs , are partially recessed into the control arm, and I cannot get enough of a bite with a 3/4 socket.

[The Rocknrod]

Your going to havle to cut them out or drill them out. Maybe drill the heads off?
I'd remove the upper bolts, the trailing arms bolts (to the cross-member) and work on them off the truck. But that's just me.

[kens65fb]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Your going to havle to cut them out or drill them out. Maybe drill the heads off?
I'd remove the upper bolts, the trailing arms bolts (to the cross-member) and work on them off the truck. But that's just me.

I wonder if there should be some type of washer between the bolt & control arm, so the bolt doesn't bury itself, then you can get a socket on it.

[The Rocknrod]

I would.

[pdxhall]

If the bolts are as you said, you will probably need new lower spring perches and bolts. If the hole in the control arm is buggered out a washer may work but you will know what's going on when you get it torn apart. I cut mine out and replaced everything.

[roll_the_dice]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Your going to havle to cut them out or drill them out. Maybe drill the heads off?
I'd remove the upper bolts, the trailing arms bolts (to the cross-member) and work on them off the truck. But that's just me.

That's a good idea...beats laying on your back doing it!

[lolife99]

I always start rear spring removal but cutting the spring with a cutoff wheel and getting it out of the way.
Remove the shock and lower the rearend so you can get in there and work.
Everyone tries to save the old spring.
Make things easy on yourself.
Just my 2 cents.

[cwcarpenter98]

I have a washer on the underside of the spring bolt that goes through the trailing arm.
After 50+ years, the washer could have rusted away or broke apart

[Heater63]

Everything needs to be replaced with NEW, so cut everything...torch or wheel.

[Riverstory]

I used a breaker bar with a 4' cheater pipe. Came right off. No sense in cutting when you don't have to.

[forestb]

Have you tied spinning the coil. If you can spin the coil and the bottom bolt stays in place then you should be able to get it out.