For the guys that did 73-87 crossmember swaps vs. buying a kit

[T.W.Dustin]

Well there is no search function right now so I will just ask my specific question here. I am building a short step 292 w/ S10 5 speed build here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=616643 that I plan to use pretty regular here in AZ. I am to the point of re-assembling the chassis and I am trying to finalize my direction on which disk brake solution to employ. I am staying 6 lug and using my stock trailing arms and rear end. I want to go down a couple of inches at least (maybe more but no more than 4. I will likely add power steering.

Here are my questions:

Am I going to save money and be happy doing the 73-87 crossmember swap once it's said and done?

Or should I just pop for a kit from someone like Brothers with dropped spindles and all new parts while they are 15% off till the end of the month? I am leaning towards spending the $$ for the full kit.

I guess a side question would be: Is there a better kit I should be looking at?

And finally, the first crossmember I found was $350 or $400 w/ the steering box but I just started looking. Is that a fair price if it is clean or should I keep looking if I go that direction? I am not committed either way yet.

Thanks in advance - probably make the call by the end of the month, just a few days (Jan 31). Tom

[gmcdeadhead]

i did the swap on my 66 c-20, i bought a 1987 chevy r30 sing axel rolling chassis from a guy that was parting out the r30. i did the whole front end conversion , which he had already replaced all the front end parts , i got the steering box which he had already replaced and was practically new , did the hydro boost that came on the r30 , and i did the 10 bolt rear axle , got the whole thing for $600 buck , you cant beat that deal at all, i would look for a donor truck with half way decent parts and buy it that way. just my opinion .

[PGSigns]

I have done both my trucks swapping everything but the cross member. I also have one more complete front frame section here that I got for free. I just ordered all the parts to rebuild them from Amazon. Used all Moog parts. Ordered new drop spindle for one truck and got the other set with the front end parts on the other. If there is a pick and pull close parts are cheap. Power steering and power brake brackets are from Captainfab here on the board. 6 lug rotors from Summit racing is the best price. I also did a few mods from the make it handle thread.
Jimmy

[buds56]

The thing about going to a later cross member is your getting 5 lug wheels.
I too wanted to keep my 6 lugs on my 61 project and was going to go with this kit from Scarebird.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=156

But I also wanted a sway bar, power steering and that stuff adds up buying one at a time, so I found an 87 a guy was parting and got the rolling frame for $100. I'm into a lot more work, wasn't planning on a rear axle change.

I've used the Scarebird stuff on my 56 Pontiac and the appealing part of their kit is the rotors and calipers and bearings are stock items at any napa store, they just supply their brackets and spacers.

Hopefully this helps in your decision

[T.W.Dustin]

Thanks guys. I do have a PS box but need to check to see what it is exactly. I'll have to get the numbers off it but it was rigged up on my truck when I got it and it wasn't mounted with a proper bracket. I like the idea of finding a lot of the parts in the scrap yard - I have a bunch of those here in the valley. Thanks for the references too. I have read a lot of the FAQ posts and have learned a lot in those threads. Sounds as though so far the guys that have done the swaps like them.

[Gooker928]

CPP sells 6 lug rotors. I used Belltech 3 1/2 drop spindles.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by buds56

The thing about going to a later cross member is your getting 5 lug wheels.
I too wanted to keep my 6 lugs on my 61 project and was going to go with this kit from Scarebird.

https://scarebird.com/index.php?rout...product_id=156

But I also wanted a sway bar, power steering and that stuff adds up buying one at a time, so I found an 87 a guy was parting and got the rolling frame for $100. I'm into a lot more work, wasn't planning on a rear axle change.

I've used the Scarebird stuff on my 56 Pontiac and the appealing part of their kit is the rotors and calipers and bearings are stock items at any napa store, they just supply their brackets and spacers.

Hopefully this helps in your decision

The 6 lug rotors at Summit will work on those spindles.

[T.W.Dustin]

Thanks for the responses. Here is where I am starting from (pics below).

The box with a number 197A0 is on the aluminum cap. The box is not mounted properly but it appears to be a 73-87 style gear box - condition unknown.

I may have found an entire 3/4 ton 87 suspension w/ 8 lug rotors which I would have to change, but If I am changing my springs and rotors anyway would this hub to hub setup work (may change to drop spindles too)?

[AcampoDave]

I did the swap re-using my factory height '66 springs. I got some stuff from the junk yard, some from the parts store...when I got done my front end was like 2" lower. I don't know why, especially since I used stock height spindles and my old springs but I bought 2"drop coils for the rear just to restore my factory rake.

[64shortbed]

My 64 GMC i just swaped A arms and bought the frame adapter for steering box. All my parts are from a 85 chevy. If you want to keep 6 lug and disc just buy the 6 lug rotor as stated before. You will have to use the 73-87 steering linkage and pitman arm.

P.S. also a good idea to buy new lower control arm u bolts for the 73-87 control arms and drill the factory hole out for bigger u bolts.

[cheessee]

Where did u get the frame adapter for the steering box

[T.W.Dustin]

Originally Posted by cheessee

Where did u get the frame adapter for the steering box

There isn't an adapter, the box is mounted with spacers which is not a good solution. I plan to change it.

Still trying to see if a hub-hub 87 C20 will work if I change springs and rotors.

[AcampoDave]

http://www.earlyclassic.com/tech.asp...e%20Big%20Ship check this out.

Still trying to see if a hub-hub 87 C20 will work if I change springs and rotors.[/QUOTE]

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by cheessee

Where did u get the frame adapter for the steering box

Here.. http://www.classicparts.com/1960-66-...ctinfo/76-979/ Capt Fab has one also.

[Captainfab]

The easiest way to get 5 or 6 lug front disc brakes is to find a C10 front suspension. I don't think those rotors from ECE will work on factory spindles, but I could be wrong.

The advantage I have had with swapping the complete suspension is that unless your donor is just completely worn out, you can change the entire suspension in a weekend with a friends help, and be driving it again on Monday. Then just fix what needs to be fixed on the suspension and steering.

I make power steering box adapter plates as well as many other products for the '60-'72 trucks. There are for sale links in my sig line.

Originally Posted by T.W.Dustin

There isn't an adapter, the box is mounted with spacers which is not a good solution. I plan to change it.

Still trying to see if a hub-hub 87 C20 will work if I change springs and rotors.

[scottofksu]

I swapped the center-link, and idler arm bracket from a 73-87 truck; used Captain Fabs adapter and added a power steering gear from an 80 C-10; upgraded the lower-control arm u-bolts to 73-87 units (they are MUCH larger than the weak stock units); bought 2.5 inch drop spindles and 6 lug rotors from CPP; found a 1.25 inch sway bar on a 1 ton truck at the junk yard; 1 inch lowering springs from ECE (I think); new calipers, bearings, etc from RockAuto; new control arm shafts from PartsGeek; and all new tie-rods, idler and pitman arms, and ball-joints from RockAuto (all Moog). All said, I probably have over $500-600 in the front suspension/steering, but I could buy it a piece at a time, which helped my budget.

[T.W.Dustin]

Well I decided to go the 73-87 route sprinkled with some upgrades like 6 lug rotors and dropped spindles from Summit. I PM'd Captain Fab to purchase his booster and power steering plates. Thanks for all the feedback!!!

[gmcdeadhead]

Captainfab, I make power steering box adapter plates as well as many other products for the '60-'72 trucks

i would go with captain fabs steering box adapter, there the best. i also bought the steering shaft coupler, hydro boast firewall plate , and the 10 bolt rear perches , there really top notch stuff.

[Captainfab]

Thank you for the kind words

Originally Posted by gmcdeadhead

i would go with captain fabs steering box adapter, there the best. i also bought the steering shaft coupler, hydro boast firewall plate , and the 10 bolt rear perches , there really top notch stuff.

[T.W.Dustin]

I located a complete '87 Suburban front end. The frame rails were cut at the firewall and everything is intact including the gear box. I will go get it tomorrow. Now the fun starts :-)

[T.W.Dustin]

Got the front frame clip today for $200. Everything is real clean and has the 1.25" HD brakes and the steering box plus the sway bar.. This was actually off an '88 but the 2WD Suburbans and Blazer front ends are good through 91.

I ordered 6 lug disks from Summit and my parts from Captain Fab are ordered up so all looking good. Still debating if to drop right now as everything is pretty clean.

[999Tinman]

So i know this is a old thread but i have a question. I will be ordering cpp lower and uper arms for my 1972 c20. They will be the 73-87 and so will the spindles and brakes. Which contril shaft and idler arms do i use? I am excited to convert the farm truck(dads the original owner) to half ton for more suspension options and wheel options

[GMC-V6]

Anybody done the 73-87 swap with a 60-62 torsion bar suspension truck? I have a 1962 C30 that I need to update the front end... 1962 GMC dually 305D V6 SM420 4spd..

My wheel bearings went obsolete and I need to modernize it.
Mike

[SkinnyG]

I did an '84 'Burb front under my '61 Apache.

I think less of the bolts line up than others have found on the 63+. I pancaked mine 2" and moved it forward 1" when I installed it, so the bolts lining up or not really don't matter to me.

Documented here, and the action starts around post #44:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=756182&page=2