47-55.1 Using original heater.

[47 Fasttoys]

From time to time a thread comes up about can you use original heater. Many think you cannot because of the higher pressure when using modern drive train. So I have been running the original heater in my truck for the last 7 years. I run a LS swapped '47 COE which also has a vintage air under dash AC unit. Because a couple of weeks ago I started to loose a little coolant I was thinking maybe the heater was leaking. I built a test gig to test the original core at higher pressure just to see. Here are the results. The core will hold 16 PSI for as long as needed, at least 24 hours, so this is not the issue. I have also included pictures of the motor I used for 12 volts. As far as will it last? my build currently has almost 200k miles on it so yes it will hold up. This is my 3rd time using an original heater with modern engine. Hope this helps others.
Rob

[nvrdone]

Ive had the same good luck. I replaced the heater core in my '49 at least 40+ years ago. and its still working good. Dont know if the coolant pressure in a 327 is less than in an LS.
I just flush and refill the cooling system every winter when I put the truck in storage.

[mr48chev]

Thats either being pretty lucky or both of you had aftermarket replacement cores that were built to handle more pressure.
I've got three or four of those deluxe heaters out in the shed all with bad cores.

[whitedog76]

Do you have to use an anode when using LS engines with the old heater cores?

[47 Fasttoys]

I did not use an anode.

[_Ogre]

I've driven many an old truck with a stock heater, you guys are in temperate climates. At subzero temperature the stock heater won't defrost the windshield, much less heat the cab. That would be my problem with stock heater. I won't drive TRUK in snow cuz of salt, but I'll drive it in cold weather. I've never blown up a heater core.

[fauXGT]

My Deluxe Fresh Air heater had a leaky core. tested before re-assembe and had drips (8psi). Found no one in town to fix. Got the modern replacement that coud handle higher pressure, is what they say, for not much more than new stock core.
Now it sits in a box until ready for installation.
p.s. only going to be used to warm or defrost on early spring or late fall runs.

[mr48chev]

I've never actually run anything except a stock fresh air "Deluxe heater" . Still for the guy who isn't doing a 100% original show room stock truck it doesn't really make much finanical sense to rebuild one and change it to 12 volt when other and probably better options are out there for far less money.

Lets examine the cost of rebuilding one like the ones I have out in the shed.

Heater core. one of the few that is rated for over 15 lbs right now is the one from Jim Carter.
https://oldchevytrucks.com/meh246.html Current inflation price on that one is 255.00 That is up from 170 something a few months ago.

12 Volt motor https://oldchevytrucks.com/el116.html

That one is a somewhat reasonable 59.95.

Heater control valve https://oldchevytrucks.com/reme202.html They almost always have some issue and need repaired or replaced

214.00 at Jim carter if they still redo your core if you have a rebuildable core or 155.00 if the price holds to rebuild yours at the Filling Station https://store.fillingstation.com/det...E_REBUILD.html


The proper silver-brown heater paint from Jim carter https://oldchevytrucks.com/pt137s.html
17.95

If you have a 47/52 the proper heater emblem for Chevy or GMC https://oldchevytrucks.com/catalogse...+Heater+emblem
24.50


Lets see now

heater core---------- 255.00
12 V heater motot-----59.95
heater control valve -214.00
Paint -------------------17.95
Decal-------------------24.50
_______________________
Total ------------------571.40

Potentially 571.40 to correctly restore and convert a deluxe heater to 12 volt and install it and the control valve.

That doesn't count buying a heater if you don't have one nor rounding up a core for the control valve. Nor does it count buying a new blower switch and the control pieces for the control valve.

That is just something to think about if you are building one of these trucks as a hot rod truck and not restoring it to show point original.

[fauXGT]

My control valve is shot and can't find a reasonable replacement.
I'm going to rig it open, run a cable shut valve off of the "T" throttle cable being I'm not using it. Putting in a 350 with the v-belt setup and stamped 'Chevrolet' valve covers.
Making it to look 50's, but run modern.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by fauXGT

My control valve is shot and can't find a reasonable replacement.
I'm going to rig it open, run a cable shut valve off of the "T" throttle cable being I'm not using it. Putting in a 350 with the v-belt setup and stamped 'Chevrolet' valve covers.
Making it to look 50's, but run modern.

This will do exactly what you are thinking of https://www.ebay.com/itm/310234390594

You can of course get a similar valve locally or from other sources.

The original heater valve works as a bypass valve when you aren't running the heater and that may be an issue with a stock engine, probably not and issue with a later engine.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Lets see now

heater core---------- 255.00
12 V heater motot-----59.95
heater control valve -214.00
Paint -------------------17.95
Decal-------------------24.50
_______________________
Total ------------------571.40

Potentially 571.40 to correctly restore and convert a deluxe heater to 12 volt and install it and the control valve.

do an amazon search for in cab heater. $75-$200. screw the original cover to it. bam.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by joedoh

do an amazon search for in cab heater. $75-$200. screw the original cover to it. bam.

I Guess my thing is that I am well beyond "original" I'm not going to drop 500 bucks into an old heater that didn't work all that great to begin with just because it looks original. If I was restoring a truck to stone stock original to compete in judged shows as an original as it left the showroom floor truck, yes I would spend the money.

I just don't want someone building a hot rod pickup to overpay for an old heater and then spend up to 500 bucks rebuilding it because someone told him/her that the Deluxe heater was the way to go. Buyer beware, know what you are getting into and know your options.


I've got an old decco recirculating heater in the shed that I am going to do just what you said with for another project. Find a modern core that fits, find a low cost blower motor and basically use the shell with common internals.

You can buy a Vintage air Gen 3 heat only unit for 290 that will roast you out of an AD cab. plus there are probably less expensive but equal units around if you hunt a bit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/v...HUaNOTz2TqYatA

[fauXGT]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

This will do exactly what you are thinking of https://www.ebay.com/itm/310234390594

You can of course get a similar valve locally or from other sources.

The original heater valve works as a bypass valve when you aren't running the heater and that may be an issue with a stock engine, probably not and issue with a later engine.

Yep. That's what will go in. May have to adjust the location of the 'T' handle to have enough cable to make it to the shut off, but that's a bit away being still prepping the cab for paint. Then spent the winter assembling.