47-59 VIN verification help

[-Dan-]

The data plate on this truck is pretty well wiped out. The only numbers that I see are - 20JP-E then after that is 5920. The numbers do not match anything from the LMC Truck chassis chart. Can anyone tell me what the numbers mean? What does a real data plate look like? The truck did not come with a title. PO said it is a 51.

[joedoh]

20 is LA plant, J is 1951, P is a 1/2 ton 3100, E is May, and 5920 was the serialized production number. that definitely looks like the original stamping on the original plate, and it matches the LMC chassis chart.

[mr48chev]

That stamped number is the only thing that means anythng on that plate as far as the state is concerned.

When I moved back to Washington my door post plate had about 8 layers of paint on it and the state patrolman who was the inspector took his knife and scraped away the paint over the serial number and that is the way the plate is to this day.

The state is not interested in the printed info on the plate, they are far more interested in the fact that the original rivets are holding the plate on and that it has the correct serial number.

This is a 51/52 door post plate repro.

If you have a title and the number doesn't match the door post it shoul match the serial number on the engine block.

The info for the engine serial number is here http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm

Or in the pfd for 51 trucks in the GM Heritage archives https://www.gm.com/content/dam/compa...olet-Truck.pdf

Scroll to the how to find the serial number section.

[-Dan-]

Originally Posted by joedoh

20 is LA plant, J is 1951, P is a 1/2 ton 3100, E is May, and 5920 was the serialized production number. that definitely looks like the original stamping on the original plate, and it matches the LMC chassis chart.

Thank you for the chart reading lesson!

Originally Posted by mr48chev

That stamped number is the only thing that means anythng on that plate as far as the state is concerned.

When I moved back to Washington my door post plate had about 8 layers of paint on it and the state patrolman who was the inspector took his knife and scraped away the paint over the serial number and that is the way the plate is to this day.

The state is not interested in the printed info on the plate, they are far more interested in the fact that the original rivets are holding the plate on and that it has the correct serial number.

This is a 51/52 door post plate repro.

If you have a title and the number doesn't match the door post it shoul match the serial number on the engine block.

The info for the engine serial number is here http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm

Or in the pfd for 51 trucks in the GM Heritage archives https://www.gm.com/content/dam/compa...olet-Truck.pdf

Scroll to the how to find the serial number section.

Thank you

[vintovka]

Was thinking that taking a clear closeup of a plate and printing it on a full page may help during any registration process. Sometime DMV staff here use a camera to snap a close up pic of a plate so they can see it better on screen.

[mr48chev]

Somewhere in the process in most states someone from the state or with authority from the state has to physically check the numbers and that the tag they are on is mounted with the correct fasteners. The check harder for stolen vehicles thing is behind that. I've heard of a few guys who got rejected by the dmv because the vehicle had the wrong fasteners holding the plate.

Still having a clear image of the plate as it sits on the cab in you build book if you are building one from pieces like Joedoe and a few others might do with their frame swap trucks where that cab off the grain truck works great on your build helps with the process as sometimes does a photo of the cab or truck where it was sittiing when you bought it plus a printed out copy of the add from the net if it was advertised on FB, Craigslist or another site. Plus if you didn't get a title a legit looking bill of sale. You can get bill of sale forms off the net and print them out to take along on the quest.

I tossed in the view from the backyard this moorning when I want out to get a clear shot of the door post tag on the 51 1-1/2 ton tag.

Here is the how I found it shot. When I went up and bought the two trucks.




Back when you could buy both of them for 100 for the pair. And then spend twice that getting them off the hill. That was just a few months before scrap metal when sky high That is more if you are doing the assembled from parts with no title though.

[mr48chev]

So much for having things in the order I wanted them in in post 6.

[joedoh]

yes and pay attention to whats coming on your state legislature, just a year ago (two this summer!) the kansas house lobbied and passed a law that you could complete antique registration without inspection on vehicles 60 years old and older. the previous law was written as older than 1950, so if you wanted to build an old truck and it wasnt running, the butt mucher sphincter inspectors would only give you a non-highway title for 1950 and newer, even though there was nothing in the law about it. 1949 and down though, bill of sale, insurance, and you had a tag that day and a title in a week. now its 1963 and down! no inspection. the year prior they passed law that an antique could have any combination of old and new parts as long as the body and title were antique. this last year they said private restorers and rebuilders could remove serial and VIN tags without a trooper present. thats a big deal!

i had this kind of trouble with a non highway inspection on my 1972 barn find BMW, they would not let me complete registration, until i asked the inspection supervisor to show me the exact passage of law that said I couldnt. she couldnt, or wouldnt, and allowed me to register the car. my point is to BE THE EXPERT. know what they look for, know the process. every time I titled the 1949 and older trucks before the rule change, the tag gals would insist i needed an inspection, but the manager of the tag office would always correct them.


be the expert!

[mr48chev]

Joedoo's last comment in post 8 says somethign to remember, Usually it is far better to go up the food chain at the DMV or in a licensing office.

Here I usually go to Cascade liscensing in Union Gap For title changes, they are three blocks from the WSP inspection station. The inspectors here are usually older WSP officers who have been a patrolman for over 20 years and they know their stuff. The owner of Cascade (Nvrdone this is where you go) is one of the most knowledgable title guys I have ever met. He and his staff won't do anything shady or close to it but if there is a question he can't answer he knows exactly who in Olympia to call.