47-55.1 Radiator for 48 Chev 350 TPI

[Thadious]

So, the current build is coming along, and I've just finished rebuilding the motor. The old rad that came with it shows signs of leakage over the years and looking to replace it with an aluminum one.

It's easy to find an aftermarket replacement with the standard fittings for an SBC... the problem is that I am using a TPI motor and the air filter is right under the neck of the return. I'd like to have the return on the driver's side of the rad as I also have a custom bracket system going in to move the PS pump and alternator up beside the the valve covers.

Has anyone used an OEM shaped rad from another vehicle that has the inlet/outlet on opposite sides of it? Just looking to see if something else will fit.

Cheers!
Ted.

[jweb]

Not an OEM but you could contact Superior Radiator. I'm sure they can move the inlet/ outlet where you want.

https://superiorradiator.net/shop/ol...or-ls1-ls2-ls3

[mr48chev]

They aren't cheap compared to a lot of the popular Ebay radiators or even the one I have but Brice Thomas / CGJ makes a quality product in the US and does custom assemble them to order. They will paint them black if you like too.

https://cgj.com/product/gm-2007-alum...truck-radiator

CGJ is the same parent company that owns US radiator.

[leegreen]

these guys look flexible in their approach
https://www.rndfabrication.com/ChevyGMC47-54.html


years back I saw a rad installed upside down to solve a swap problem. Rad cap was on the bottom, a remote expansion tank/ filler from a '60s ford car was used to relocate the filler. I assume they used a high pressure cap on the bottom of rad and a lower pressure cap on expansion tank.
this would give you inlet center bottom, outlet top right

[nvrdone]

OK, here's a question. Is your frame original with no boxing / reinforcements etc, or is it a custom unit with lots of reinforcement?
The reason I ask is that I have seen aluminum radiators in old vehicles crack due to chassis flex.
Any chance you have a radiator shop somewhere near you that could build a custom copper / brass radiator. ?

[mr48chev]

US radiators will build a brass radiator as will Johnsons Radiator works that bought Walkers. All of the shops are in the same town in Alabama.

https://usradiator.com/radiator-find...uck&_year=1951

[Thadious]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

OK, here's a question. Is your frame original with no boxing / reinforcements etc, or is it a custom unit with lots of reinforcement?
The reason I ask is that I have seen aluminum radiators in old vehicles crack due to chassis flex.
Any chance you have a radiator shop somewhere near you that could build a custom copper / brass radiator. ?

Frame is actually from a 2002 Eddie Bauer Explorer. Fully boxed over the entire length and IFS/IRS with an 8.8 Limited slip rear end 3.73 gears.

No custom rad shops in the area, closest is Spokane, WA @ 2.5hr drive.

Was looking at the fleabay ones and just looking at something that might be stock sizes for another vehicle but will bolt into the 47-54 chev spot that had a stock configuration that would work. Trying to stay away from the custom weld ups as it does significantly add to the price.

Cheers!
Ted.

[fauXGT]

I went for a new stock brass (about $300, as of 2 years ago) being it will drop into stock core support and is designed for modern engines, but I'm running a stock looking V8 (350 with built internals) with a Holley Sniper and the thermo hose is sitting to feed straight to the center of the radiator.... kinda stock... for 1st V8's. Where is the direction of the upper rad hose on a TPI? You could make it easy and get a stock rad and go to a CaNaDa Napa equilivant to dig thru their rad hoses for a close to fit. I've done that, and they just let me go to the back and hunt. Especially when they they hear what year/model I'm looking for. If it's close....

[leegreen]

There is quite a bit of motor that sticks out in front of the TPI throttle body, maybe enough room for a silicon 90 so you can relocate the filter?

if it is any incentive we had a z28 with 305 TPI that someone had stuck a newish cone filter onto the TB, 'cold air intake' style. Throwing that out and going back to the stock intake & filter gave an immediate and noticeable improvement in drivability. A lot of off idle stumble just went away and the butt dyno was pleased to note a power increase.


I just read some encouraging words online that west kootenay radiator might be worth a call

[mr48chev]

I'm thinking that the guys that have aluminum radiators break are the same ones who remove all the stock bracing on the front end in the name of "cleaning it up.

[mobileortho]

I had TPI in my rig before the LS swap. I used the Champion rad with the center outlet with no issues. Before I I installed the cold air intake, I used the K&N RC 5000 but I always liked the look of this one from O'Brien Truckers .

[dsraven]

as a heavy duty mechanic I can say that a lot of equipment uses steel tubing with rubber connectors on each end (or special connections/housings that use "O" rings) for rad hose. that way there are maybe more connections but possibly less lineal feet of rubber to cause problems. maybe an idea like that could be used. I suggest to fab the part and fit it and then epoxy the inside of the tubing so as not to rust. I have used endura epoxy before to spray the outside of steel water lines used in residential water supply, it is what the city spec'd, so I assume it must be good stuff for that. it is also used a lot in the aircraft realm. aluminum or stainless tubing could also be used but steel wouldbe cheaper and easier to work with. also, remember to keep the hose/tube in an upward swing the whole length so as not to encourage places where bubbles or air pockets can form.

[Thadious]

Originally Posted by leegreen

There is quite a bit of motor that sticks out in front of the TPI throttle body, maybe enough room for a silicon 90 so you can relocate the filter?

if it is any incentive we had a z28 with 305 TPI that someone had stuck a newish cone filter onto the TB, 'cold air intake' style. Throwing that out and going back to the stock intake & filter gave an immediate and noticeable improvement in drivability. A lot of off idle stumble just went away and the butt dyno was pleased to note a power increase.


I just read some encouraging words online that west kootenay radiator might be worth a call

The motor that I bought, off a guy in Victoria, came with that K&N oval cone filter attached directly to the TB, I may replace it with a new one, but definitely keeping it. I've removed the air pump and a/c on it and so moved the alt and ps pump up with a custom bracket like the ones made by March (Revolver model).

https://marchperformance.com/chevy-s...g-21110-c.html

So far, without going to a custom rad, I've been looking at this one and pretty sure it will fit... it's about 1" narrower and 1-1/2 shorter but the config is right.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125758123066

I've also reached out to Champion Radiators to see what they might have in way of what I'm after and waiting to hear on their response. It's a shame you can't narrow all the options down with a sizing chart of core and overall sizes then go through configurations... it would make it so much easier for hotrodders!

Cheers,
Ted.

[Thadious]

Originally Posted by dsraven

as a heavy duty mechanic I can say that a lot of equipment uses steel tubing with rubber connectors on each end (or special connections/housings that use "O" rings) for rad hose. that way there are maybe more connections but possibly less lineal feet of rubber to cause problems. maybe an idea like that could be used. I suggest to fab the part and fit it and then epoxy the inside of the tubing so as not to rust. I have used endura epoxy before to spray the outside of steel water lines used in residential water supply, it is what the city spec'd, so I assume it must be good stuff for that. it is also used a lot in the aircraft realm. aluminum or stainless tubing could also be used but steel wouldbe cheaper and easier to work with. also, remember to keep the hose/tube in an upward swing the whole length so as not to encourage places where bubbles or air pockets can form.

I have considered that exact idea with the hard tubing for 95% of it and rubber connector ends. I am going to have to replace the water neck for something that comes off at more of a 90deg to the motor, as it would likely run into the PS pump due to it's new location. Hard piping would allow me to run a very specific routing that wouldn't rot out over time and would certainly remove one more possibility of a burst hose over time. I was looking at 304SS tubing, exhaust or other wise. Just buy the mandrel bends, fit and weld them up. I've already done about 50% of a dual 2-1/2 stainless exhaust system, so I'm definitely geared up for it!

[dsraven]

You could also look at the spectra rad site for sizes, number of rows, fitment etc

[leegreen]

smooth ss pipe does not hold onto radiator hose well, you need a barb or bead to clamp against.

[Thadious]

So... think I will settle on this one...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334262292093

Outlets in the right spot, drain in a good spot on the bottom and after measuring the core support, I have 20 5/8" between uprights and just have to trim the "wings" to fit the max with of the support, mark the mounting holes and I should be good.

[Rickysnickers]

For ideas for your TPI engine, look here post #95 , http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=501998&page=4