4x4 Wheel bearings

[1985K10]

The pass side front wheel bearing in my 85K10 is shot. It has WARN manual locking hubs. Can anyone tell me how big of a project it is to replace wheel bearings? Maybe any tips?

And will a spanner wrench that fits a 76K20 work on my truck, or will i need a different one?

Thanks!

[1972]

The same spanner wrench will fit as long as it was for the front of the K20, it should be a 4 prong socket. The wheel bearings are fairly easy to replace. Remove the brake caliper. Remove the lock-out hub. Remove the locking nut, the locking washer, then the second nut ( that holds the hub on). Remove the old wheel seal. Remove and replace the races and grease up the new bearings. Install the inner bearing and the new seal. Put the hub back on the spindle. Put the outter bearing in and put the first nut back on (be sure to use the correct nut, it will be the one with the pin on it that will go into the lock washer). You will need a torque wrench to properly torque the nut. Put the locking washer back in, be sure that the pin from the nut goes into one of the holes in the locking washer. If not, remove the locking washer and turn it around and put it in the other way. If it still doesn't engage the pin just tighten the nut a bit more until the pin will go into one of the holes in the locking washer. Then put the locking nut on and torque it to the specified amount. Re-install the lock-out hub and caliper. I can't remember the amount to torque the bearings. If you decide to replace the bearings I can find the torque ratings.

[1985K10]

Thanks,I actually have a book with the torque specs and everything, I was wondering how much work it was, and if the wrench I have would fit.
You answered my question, thanks!

[white82]

i was wandering the same thing but i dont have tork specs mine is a 82 1/2 ton chevy 4x4 i have the auto hubs and i got one that sticks all the time

[1985K10]

For 81-83 it says the outer locknut should be torqued to 160-205 ft.-lb.'s.(10,20,1500,&2500 series)

[Grim Reaper]

Originally Posted by 1985K10

For 81-83 it says the outer locknut should be torqued to 160-205 ft.-lb.'s.(10,20,1500,&2500 series)

Straight out of the factory manual for 1988 for all 1/2 and 3/4 solid axles from 73-91 should be the same if it had the small hub with internal locking.

Tighten first ring to 50lbft while turning hub to seat bearings on spindle.

Back off 1/4 turn. Retorque to 35lb ft and back off no more then 3/8s turn or a little less till you can line up the lock ring.

Lock nut is then torqued to 160 it says but I have never done more then 125 and never had a problem. Older books say less then new do. I see no reason to torque that much on the lock nut and none of my buddies ever do either. Most do it by feel and end up around 100-125. Putting that much torque on those 4 prong sockets is a pain in the but at 100 I don't see how you can keep one engaged to do 160lbft without using a impact so you can lean on it.

[1985K10]

I checked my bearings....wow....the locknut was not even finger tight and the bearing nut?? was also no where near finger tight. I inspected the bearings, they were suprisingly fine, tightened the nuts, put the wheels back on and there was no play at all(a small amount in the ball joints) and the truck goes down the road nice and straight now. Oh, after taking the tire and brake caliper off, it took 5-10 minutes to adjust the bearings. VERY easy job.

I wouldnt wanna do it with auto hubs though!