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View Poll Results: Repops or Originals? | |||
Reproduction Fenders (Goodmark) | 26 | 47.27% | |
Fix the Originals. | 29 | 52.73% | |
Voters: 55. You may not vote on this poll |
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12-15-2004, 01:02 PM | #26 |
This, is my BOOMSTICK!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Berlin, CT
Posts: 1,310
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Hey demi, I'm originally from PA too. At least you were smart and moved to a place where you won't have to deal with rot. Your truck thanks you, i'm sure.
Me, I jumped out of the frying pan and into the fire by moving to CT. What the hell was I thinking?
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Larry Got rid of my projects for now. 1980 Jeep CJ7 1998 Nissan Sentra (my car) 2001 Toyota Sienna (wife's, of course) |
12-15-2004, 01:29 PM | #27 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 305
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Hey Spencra - I couldn't believe the condition vehicles are in out here. There are so many 30+ year old vehicles being used as daily drivers that have never been painted or anything running around. As for our year trucks, there are so many out here as daily driver beaters it's staggering.
I used to work in a fab shop back east and removing and replacing rot was the daily grind. I don't miss doing that type of repair at all - unless there is absolutely no choice. Then out here when I look at vehicles and I see a small spot of rust through - someone from originally out here would say, "Hell, that's really rotted, it's trash." I would say that if one could find really nice oem sheetmetal ie. no dents or rust - to use it. I have also noticed that not all Arizona sheetmetal is originally from Az. This place is comprised of transplants - mostly from the northern mid-west or rust belt states. |
12-15-2004, 01:45 PM | #28 | |
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Location: South West Michigan
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Quote:
Randy- Pics are a plus, but I've heard from numerous people that getting good repro fenders is like drawing straws. Maybe you just drew the right straw. Truck looks great nonetheless. I know this question has been asked before, but I don't remember the answer. Is it true that you can only get passenger side cups?
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Horsepower is how FAST you hit the wall, torque is how HARD |
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12-15-2004, 01:57 PM | #29 | |
Keepin an eye out
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: So.Cal
Posts: 3,920
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Quote:
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1970 Chevy C10 SWB 5.3 1996 Toyota Tacoma SR5 4x4 2007 Vespa GTS 250 Scooter ZIP 91351 |
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12-15-2004, 05:30 PM | #30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Perrysburg, Ohio, USA
Posts: 409
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I've had only one repop so far. And it was a nitemare installing. So as far as I'm concered I'd rather fix the old part frist. Besides it's cheaper to fix what you got then buy new anyday.
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'91 suburban 350 TBI - R 700 4 new daily driver '72 Cheyenne Super 49,000miles 350/350 frame up resto w/ matching numbers. |
12-15-2004, 07:36 PM | #31 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,094
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Quote:
My vote is a between-er. If the original is salvageable, do so. If not, a re-pop is only a nip/tuck away from a good fit & you don't have to mess w/all the rust in hard to reach (impossible to reach) spots.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 12-15-2004 at 07:38 PM. |
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12-15-2004, 07:54 PM | #32 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Medicine Hat,AB, Canada
Posts: 194
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I wanted to do this once and use the truck as my daily driver, so I replaced everything that was rusty with Triplus. However, it isn't installed yet so I can't vouch for the fit. I got hood, doors, fenders, bumpers, grill.
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Michael 1971 GMC Suburban "Crusty" 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd 1978 Scout II 1992 Passat Syncro |
12-15-2004, 08:01 PM | #33 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Deer Park, Tx.
Posts: 2,522
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I can tell you guys this is that if many of you do not do your own bodywork on your trucks than buy repro fenders. Sometimes it is more expensive to repair an oem part than it is to bolt on a new undamaged panel. Plus, I can tell you that if someone came in to my shop with all new sheetmetal hanging on it and I give them a bid to paint it, it will be less expensive than if I have to prime and block the whole truck for two weeks due to bodyworked panels all over the vehicle. Sometimes it is worth trying to align the panels. Heck these truck came with about 5 lbs. of shims in them. Go with repro panels unless your panels are perfect with only minor dings. It will save you time and money in the long run. Plus if you come in to a bodyshop needing all bodywork, it will take longer than just sanding and shooting new panels.
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12-15-2004, 09:56 PM | #34 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Jackson, New Jersey
Posts: 1,560
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how about those tri plus doors. do they have that same nice solid thud as origanls when shut. are they as solid and as heavy. and are they making the 72 doors with the screw hole by the vent.
i prefer origanal but i dont want old repairs rotting on me in five years. i have 2 new take off origanl tailgates here i wouldnt trade for 10 repos
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2004 Silverado 2500HD Crewcab 4x4 2000 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 1971 CHEYENNE LWB (THE LOVE SHACK) 1967 c-10 lwb (THE FARMERS DAUGHTER) |
12-15-2004, 10:10 PM | #35 |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,051
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I would fix the originals if they were in reason. You know the fit and line up just make sure you prime and paint the back of the patch that's where alot of people go wrong.
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
12-15-2004, 10:19 PM | #36 |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada
Posts: 4,051
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I am hate when part's dont line up. Do you see the area in red how fender sitcks out pass the grill ? Is that the way they looked from the factory ? It does not look right to me.
I don't mean to take a hit on your truck so dont get pissed. Please just wondering......
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1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD |
12-15-2004, 10:48 PM | #37 |
10/30/19
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ottawa kansas
Posts: 5,256
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Yes,they have a bit of a reveal.Looks just like my factory 72.
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12-15-2004, 11:36 PM | #38 |
My other Love
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Castlegar B.C. Canada
Posts: 4,085
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I dont know about the 67-72 fenders, but having worked on the 73-87 fenders, no matter how much farting around I and my friends have done, half the time those things never seem to fit right, and you should some of the ways we have had to make 73-87 doors fit properly like a stack of 5 washers on the cab striker for gods sake. Im still confused on this debate as well, guess it depends who made the parts, because theres good then there's really really bad
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Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Eh!) Hooter_5@hotmail.com First generation Monte Carlo club pictures of my life |
12-16-2004, 10:05 AM | #39 |
This, is my BOOMSTICK!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Berlin, CT
Posts: 1,310
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Sometimes body parts suppliers will let you know that you may have to do some work on these panels because they may arrive with some imperfections (dents, scratches et..) because they are shipped from overseas. They also state that you might have to do some work to get things to fit right. I would say avoid that if you can.
The only way that I can think to avoid that is to buy local. A parts dealer isn't going to sell you a damaged part personally, and it's too easy to get away with that in the mail. I have yet to mail order body parts (patch panels) via mail but plan on it after Christmas because I could get free shipping and the product seems to be a little cheaper. You can bet that I will inquire as to who makes the product.
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Larry Got rid of my projects for now. 1980 Jeep CJ7 1998 Nissan Sentra (my car) 2001 Toyota Sienna (wife's, of course) Last edited by spencra; 12-16-2004 at 10:07 AM. |
12-16-2004, 01:29 PM | #40 |
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Location: South West Michigan
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Ugh. This is really helping alot. Even the the poll is 50/50!
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Horsepower is how FAST you hit the wall, torque is how HARD |
12-16-2004, 01:44 PM | #41 |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A.
Posts: 15,320
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I guess it is kinda hit-and-miss, but every repro item I've bought fits perfect. So far I have (repro items) front fenders, rear fenders, front bed panel, tail gate, front and rear bumpers, tail lights and drivers side mirror. I don't have any complaints whatsoever on any of these parts. I must say though, you have to know what you're doing when it comes to proper fit and alignment of any part, repop or OEM. I started building hotrods more than 20 years ago and sometimes I still do some hammering to get things right. Patience....and a box of "body shims" will make your project look flawless.
Also....support your board venders!!!! |
12-16-2004, 01:52 PM | #42 |
Mike
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: west chester pa
Posts: 2,473
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The only repop item I had a real issue with was the taigate on my blazer.The PO put it on.Not sure what manufacture but it is thin.Can't put any wieght on it.The new ones that most of the board vendors sell are supposed to be heavier.The gate is about 6 years old.
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70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires |
12-16-2004, 05:16 PM | #43 | |
This, is my BOOMSTICK!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Berlin, CT
Posts: 1,310
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Quote:
Yeah, if i've heard anything consistently bad about repops it's that the repop tailgates can be really flimsy.
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Larry Got rid of my projects for now. 1980 Jeep CJ7 1998 Nissan Sentra (my car) 2001 Toyota Sienna (wife's, of course) |
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