Fuel Tank Conversion Question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dkooi · 12-16-2004, 03:04 PM

I'm in the process of installing a blazer fuel tank in my 72' Chevy fleet side shortbed with wood floor. I have the tank in position between the frame rails and can see that the filler neck is going to interfere with the bed support, precisely where the bolt goes through that holds the bed to the frame. I could re-drill all 8 holes (4 for the straps, and 4 for the index tabs on the tank) and move the tank towards the rear, but everything is powdercoated and I would like to avoid that if at all possible. Plus I don't want a swiss-cheese style frame with numerous unutilized holes. I'm wondering if anyone has come accross this problem and how they handled it. Any insight and/or pictures would be greatly appreciated!

Deuce · 12-16-2004, 03:58 PM

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...r+tank+install

72MARIO · 12-16-2004, 05:23 PM

I had the same problem. I took the tank back. You have to hack out nearly all of the rear box crossmembe. If it's a poly tank you have to heat the area around the filler neck and tweek it to the position you need it. I would not use that tank.

Later Mario

dkooi · 12-16-2004, 05:41 PM

I knew that I was going to have to notch the crosmember quite a bit, but the problem with the filler neck position was a total suprise. And I steered clear from the poly tank because I thought the hot Arizona sun might end up distorting its shape. I suppose I could take the crossmember out of the equation completely, but I'm afraid of not having the proper support for the bed.

12-16-2004, 03:04 PM	#1
dkooi Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 175	Fuel Tank Conversion Question I'm in the process of installing a blazer fuel tank in my 72' Chevy fleet side shortbed with wood floor. I have the tank in position between the frame rails and can see that the filler neck is going to interfere with the bed support, precisely where the bolt goes through that holds the bed to the frame. I could re-drill all 8 holes (4 for the straps, and 4 for the index tabs on the tank) and move the tank towards the rear, but everything is powdercoated and I would like to avoid that if at all possible. Plus I don't want a swiss-cheese style frame with numerous unutilized holes. I'm wondering if anyone has come accross this problem and how they handled it. Any insight and/or pictures would be greatly appreciated!

12-16-2004, 03:58 PM	#2
Deuce Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Calgary, Alberta,Canada Posts: 1,595	http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...r+tank+install __________________ I know what your thinking.......I have ESPN. Sometimes it's easier to do things the hard way. Fesler Built 1968 Chevy C10....Must resist the urge to mess with it!!

12-16-2004, 05:23 PM	#3
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,051	I had the same problem. I took the tank back. You have to hack out nearly all of the rear box crossmembe. If it's a poly tank you have to heat the area around the filler neck and tweek it to the position you need it. I would not use that tank. Later Mario __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

12-16-2004, 05:41 PM	#4
dkooi Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 175	I knew that I was going to have to notch the crosmember quite a bit, but the problem with the filler neck position was a total suprise. And I steered clear from the poly tank because I thought the hot Arizona sun might end up distorting its shape. I suppose I could take the crossmember out of the equation completely, but I'm afraid of not having the proper support for the bed.



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