74 SM465 Clutch Linkage

[Russell]

Can someone run outside to their truck and get me pictures of the different parts needed for the clutch linkage on my 74, along with pictures of how it is all setup?

I've got a Z-bar, some small thinger with a nut on it, a spring on the frame rail, and a couple cotter pins. The pedal and such is all good, I just don't know how the linkage works going from the clutch pedal rod to the transmission.

I need to know how this works so I can get the truck back on the road tommorow.

Thanks if anyone can help me! I searched all over the place, but I was unable to find any really clear pictures of how it all worked (though CaptKaos did give a description, I didn't really understand it, lol)

Thanks again!

[Captkaos]

I can find where I answered that, and wondered how confusing it was after I read it, but in that post I listed a link to badone07's pics:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=137712

If that doesn't help, let me know and I will see what I can come up with.

[784X4GUY]

Russell if the pics aint good enough for you that the Captin posted, Ill run outside and snap a few pics of mine...Later Mike

[784X4GUY]

Sorry Russell about the quality of the pics, but I can't figure out how to get great pics out of it yet. But here ya go I don't know if these are going to help you or not. But its the best I could get. Good luck man...Later Mike

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[Russell]

Thanks guys, I think I've got it now Your last picture was the ticket Mike

[784X4GUY]

Not a problem russell, take care and good luck with it...Later Mike

[willaygarn]

To All:
I just replaced the old worn-out clutch in my '76 Chevy P/U. If it makes any difference, mine has the 250 straight six & 3-speed Saginaw tranny.

As far as I can tell I reassembled it correctly, but now the clutch won't disengage.

First try, before installing the tranny to the bell housing I set the linkage so that the throw-out bearing just cleared the fingers of the pressure plate. I'm assuming that it's not intended to turn all of the time, just when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Set up this way the clutch wouldn't disengage and when I tried to shift into gear it either wouldn't go in at all or it would clash gears.
I ended up extending the linkage fully and the throw out bearing is pushing on the fingers continually, and I still can't get the clutch to disengage.

I'm about to crawl under there again & start taking things apart, but I'm at the voodoo stage now, where I'm going through the motions and hoping it works next time.

Any suggestions or ideas out there?
Thanks
Will A.

[60-66 Nut]

Did you grease the inside of the throwout bearing where it slides on the input shaft collar? It could be binding on the collar. Seen that several times, especially when the transmission got washed while it was out. Hope that helps.

60-66 Nut

[60-66 Nut]

By the way, if you did grease the bearing and it's working smoothly(your pedal would probably be hard to press) check to be sure the disc is the right size for the pressure plate. If all else looks OK, you could have a bad pressure plate.

60-66 Nut

[willaygarn]

10-4, and I'll look into those things.
I just pulled the tranny and the jackshaft collar is pretty dry.

I didn't do a side by side comparison of the pressure plates but nothing caught my attention. One thing I'll also do is measure the distance from the flywheel to the finger ends and see if it is comparable to the old one. I had to compress it some while bolting it up and I think the distance looked about right compared to the old one. but maybe the new one doesn't extend back as far as the old one. It's a new one, not a rebuild, but maybe something got mixed up.

The thing is, my problem is not that it won't engage the tranny, it won't disengage it. If I pushed in on the pedal and disengaged the clutch, allowing the tranny to spin freely and then upon releasing the pedal the trans still spun freely I'd think there was something preventing the throwout bearing from sliding back but the problem seems to be that it isn't sliding in far enough.

But now I have to go to work and I'll be back at it again in the morning, weather permitting. I can tolerate the cold but I don't want to court pnemonia laying on wet concrete.

[Captkaos]

Just to be sure, but you are saying when you push the clutch pedal in the clutch won't disengage? Is it hard as a brick when you push on the pedal? It is either stuck in gear or stuck out of gear?

[willaygarn]

I had it in neutral and I couldn't get it into gear. I didn't want to try to start it in gear because first it was on a set of ramps and now the front end is on jack stands. When I pressed the pedal the resistance was fairly light and uniform.

I'm going to try again tomorrow, following the reassembly instructions in my Haynes manual. Reading it tonight I discovered that there is a gage hole in the lever and I'll see if using it makes any difference.

But first I have to see to my VW Beetle, which died on me as I drove to work yesterday. Good thing my motorcycle is running.

[784X4GUY]

Sorry to hear about your luck, hope ya get everything figured out...Later Mike

[82 Silverado 4X]

I have no idea what the book says to do, but when I installed my new clutch and pressure plate last week, after everything was back in, hooked up and tightened, I pushed back on the fork by hand until the throwout bearing just contacted the pressure plate. I then turned out my clutch adjustment rod until it made solid contact then I turned it back in one full turn and tightened the lock nuts. When I fired it up and took it for a trial run it was good.

[willaygarn]

I'm now thinking that the clutch plate may have been imperfectly centered. I greased the throwout bearing & the transmission shaft sleeve & reassembled all. The gage hole method resulted in way too much pedal free travel but the lever is "wallered out" some, so I adjusted the linkage until it felt about right. Still the inability to shift into gear, but this time the truck was on the ground so I tried starting in gear. The shifting was a little rough the first few times but it is shifting good now.

I'm holding my breath for awhile until I'm sure it isn't setting me up for more trouble.

"Keep yer tools handy" is my policy, "and the machine won't get so many funny ideas".

[YumaKaraoke]

I don't want to insult anybody's intelligence, but, I had a problem just like that many years ago when I changed the clutch in my 79. Tried to rush, it got dark and I accidently installed the clutch backwards. Sure enough it would not release unless I made EXTREME adjustements to the linkage. Ended up pulling it all back apart. The clutch should be marked on one side that say's "flywheel side" or something to that effect. Never know....

[willaygarn]

No insult taken on my end. One of my little gripes about the pamphlet that came with the new clutch was that it didn't say which way to turn it. I went by the illustration (having not paid close attention to the old clutch's position) and later, after reading my manual it did say that the built-up side goes towards the tranny.

I had a flywheel on my previous truck that had been resurfaced so many times that the springs hit the bolts and I had to find some low-profile bolts to replace 'em with.

Well, I have ran about 60 miles on the truck since last night and it seems to be working fine now. To all, I appreciate the comments and advice.

Will A.

[784X4GUY]

Thats cool man, congrats on everything working now. Hope everything holds up for the future...Later Mike

[Russell]

Yeah, glad it worked out. I was fortunate enought to be warned about the clutch only going in one way before I installed it, otherwise Murphey would have struck again for sure!