hot little wire

[greenvilledave]

The little wire that comes off the pos battery terminal and goes to the fender mounted junction box is what i am talking about. just getting to the point of putting front end back together and hooked that wire up to test ignition and engine. Seems to have power going to/from it even when key is off. is this normal seems like it would drain battery down suggestions? thanks dave

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by greenvilledave

The little wire that comes off the pos battery terminal and goes to the fender mounted junction box is what i am talking about. just getting to the point of putting front end back together and hooked that wire up to test ignition and engine. Seems to have power going to/from it even when key is off. is this normal seems like it would drain battery down suggestions? thanks dave

If it comes off the pos terminal then it is hot constantly, and it is supposed to be that way. I am not sure why, but the junction block is like that on all of my trucks, Blazers, and Suburbans

[Putter]

That wire leaves the junction box and travels across the radiator support and up the left fender into the cab.....feeding the fuse box. From there it is distributed out to the circuits.
That is how you have brake lights, headlights, horn, etc...with the key off. Or at least that is close to how it works. The alternator wire is in there somewhere also.....

[Longhorn Man]

The power sits in that wire unused...think of it as a pipe going to the sink. The water is there, it is pressurized, but you aren't draining the water tower untill you turn on the faucet. (water tower is the battery, pipes are the wires, and the faucet is the electrical load)

[Green Machine]

Also, I think that wire should be a fusible link. Often when they get corroded or damaged, it is replaced with a plain piece of wire (both my trucks are that way) but I am not 100% sure on that, anyone know for sure ??

[Longhorn Man]

Green is correct, there should be a fusable link in that wire.

[krue]

Definitely need a fusible link, although I don't think any of mine have them. Do as I say, not as I do.

[Hart_Rod]

I'll vouch for the use of a fusible link, since not having one almost burnt my Burb to the ground. The PO didn't have one between the alternator and the voltage regulator. The VR shorted out while I was driving home about a month ago. I started smelling that "burnt wire smell" first a little and then it kept getting worse. I finally pulled off the road and shut'r down. When I opend the hood, the wire between the alt and VR had completed melted the plastic coating off and was sparking on the inner fender. The battery was also spitting acid out!! I disconnected the battery and had to call my buddy for a tow. When I rewired everything --- I ADDED A FUSIBLE LINK. It is very cheap insurance.

R

[Green Machine]

What is the correct gauge for the link, isn't it supposed to be 2 sizes (4 numbers) smaller ??

[dennislbrooks]

I have a 30 amp horseshoe fuse in the wire from the battery to the fender connector. And I also carry a fire extigusher in my 67 C10 and my 85 C4.

[GMC Jim]

Quote from the 1971 Chevroklet Truck Chassis Service Manual. " Fusible links in the Chevrolet wiring are four gauge sizes smaller than the cable it is designed to protect". The engine compartment wiring is illustrated as a 10 gauge red wire coming from ythe battery + to a junction block. A fusible link of 16 gauge wire attaches to the junction block and red 12 guage wire then to the various circuits. If you desire to construct your own link; use a short piece ( 1" or so) of solid ( not stranded!) wire attached to the junction. Slide a piece of heat shrink tubing down the 12 gauge wire and then solder the 16 gauge to the 12 guage. When solder joint has cooled; slide the heat shrink tubeing over the juntion of the 16 & 12 guage wires. ......... Jim