Custom Chassis with canti setup

[Shane]

Originally Posted by HOOPTY67

hey what's the problem? you don't return pm's, no answer on tire size...suddenly its top secret info?

Hell, I don't blame him ... I wouldn't answer your PM's either if you addressed me that way.

[HOOPTY67]

addressed him in what way? i dont see where i've called him a name or anything negative.

he responded to all the questions in the thread except mine. pardon me for asking again.

sheesh. tough room.

[PBFAB.COM]

Sounds like someone might need a peer mediator! Hoopty, ValleyCustoms has been more than generous sharing information on this build, and I highly doubt he intended to neglect answering your question about tire size. If you step back and read your post it definitely could come across as negative. Not a tough room, just poorly worded post.

[cornutz]

JR.... what the H E double toothpicks happened to you on Tues. Or Wed. as you had said??? I thought we were cool? I guess that is what I get for thinkin?

Bill

[redneckdds]

hoopty... bro, lemme throw you a bone... read post #192...
btw, everyone will read/take a post a different way

Valleycustoms, hey that blue truck is tite! got any other pics of it?

good luck

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by HOOPTY67

hey what's the problem? you don't return pm's, no answer on tire size...suddenly its top secret info?

Oops sorry on that. I'm running 285/35-22 The tire is 30"

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by redneckdds

hoopty... bro, lemme throw you a bone... read post #192...
btw, everyone will read/take a post a different way

Valleycustoms, hey that blue truck is tite! got any other pics of it?

good luck

I don't have anymore pictures of the blue truck right now. That is the next project in the making. It's going to have a Jim Meyers front end and a full custom IRS in the rear running 20" 22".

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by cornutz

JR.... what the H E double toothpicks happened to you on Tues. Or Wed. as you had said??? I thought we were cool? I guess that is what I get for thinkin?

Bill

I left a message on your phone sir. We will get something else together and I will hook you up because of this. And we are still cool, but don't think too hard you might hurt yourself.

[67Fleet]

Jr, I just wanted to say your truck is definitely inspirational. Your fabwork is some of the best I've ever seen, as is the creativity. That truck is definitely mag cover material in the making. The twisted Vista 6's look killer on it, I may be getting those for my 67 soon after it's bagged. Oh yeah.........

NEED MORE PICS!!!!!!!!

[onehot69stepside]

I don't know how many times I have read every post and stare at every pic of this thread. I have pondered upon it so much and have decided to build a chassis as you have done. I think my fab skills are decent enough now after bagging about a dozen trucks or so. I was just wondering if i could pick your brain on a few things.

I have a whole crap load of 3" square tubing in my dads yard to build my table but it is 1/8 inch thick rather than 1/4 inch thick. Will there be a problem with give or warpage if i use the 1/8" thick steel even if i put legs at more intervals?

My biggest question is how you cut the angles on the rails where it narrows into the front clip. Did you have them cut on a compound angle band saw or what. I was thinking that if I jigged up the horizontal section that the upr ctrl arm and bag mounts to on the table, and i jig up the horizontal section that lays on the ground under the cab on the table, i could measure the lengths of each corresponding corners and do my own compound cuts with a cut off wheel and keep attempting till i get it right. Or should i get my hands on a nice compound miter saw and say screw it and throw a metal blade in it.

The front suspension I pretty much have it worked out being that i did one big unsafe experiment on my ride about a year ago. I didn't want to z my frame so i built a custom crossmember and control arms and mounted a mustang rack on it. I did a few things wrong on it and it has horrible bumpsteer but I have figured out what needs to be done. First, I'm going to jig up my stock arms and build tubulars. Then, so i can use a mustang rack and pinion, Im going to widen the ctrl arm mounting locations a 1/4 inch (1/8 inch on each side to account for the differences between the inner tie rod ball joint centers. A mustang r & p's center to center dimension is 24" and a 63-87's centerlink inner tie rod center to center dimension is 23 3/4") Then I have to set the rack n pinions inner balljoints at the exact vertical and front to back location ( looking at the frame from the front) as the centerlinks ball joints. Does that make sense?

I have all sorts of ideas for my chassis and ill post more of my ideas if i think they need criticism. thanks

[PBFAB.COM]

Onehot69stepside-
Unless you have a death-wish or are just tired of ten fingers, two arms, two legs, or whatever other limbs or protruding body parts that could be lopped off or obliterated when the metal cutting blade in the coumpond miter saw comes apart. The compoud miter saws you're talking about are designed to cut wood and spin way too fast to cut metal. You'd be much better off marking the tubing with a template and cut the compond miter with a cut-off wheel, sawzall, or even a hacksaw if you need a good arm workout. Whatever you do DO NOT put a metal cutting blade in a compound miter designed to cut wood and go to town.

[pharcydekm]

Good advice!!

[onehot69stepside]

lol. ok thanks for the advice. lol. I probably wouldn't have done it that way anyways. When you said template, styrofoam came to mind. I thought, hey, ill build those 3 sections of the frame out of some styrofoam or wood since its much easier to cut than 3/16 wall box tubing, and then make a template to transfer the cut marks to the steel. How does that sound?

[Center Stage Customs]

JR dont like to call anyone back, **** i bet i dont even get a call back bout tomorrow

what a jerk, and he ignore's people asking ?'s, damn the kid was just askin what tire size he's goin with, King JR didnt have to give em the cold shoulder

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

just F**kin around. even though in all actuality , you guys keep praising the C10 but really thats the farthest you'll ever see it go LOL



I think Jr should give me a call

[Chevyboy1962]

JR,
It was nice meeting you at the car show over the weekend.
For those that has'nt got to see this chassis in person, you're missing out.
Words can't describe how nice this chassis had been built, I wish this chassis was under the cab of my truck.
David

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by Center Stage Customs

JR dont like to call anyone back, **** i bet i dont even get a call back bout tomorrow

what a jerk, and he ignore's people asking ?'s, damn the kid was just askin what tire size he's goin with, King JR didnt have to give em the cold shoulder

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

just F**kin around. even though in all actuality , you guys keep praising the C10 but really thats the farthest you'll ever see it go LOL



I think Jr should give me a call

I busted my work phone and I don't have your # I sent you an IM. Call me at that #

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by Chevyboy1962

JR,
It was nice meeting you at the car show over the weekend.
For those that has'nt got to see this chassis in person, you're missing out.
Words can't describe how nice this chassis had been built, I wish this chassis was under the cab of my truck.
David

Again thanks for the help pushing the truck on the trailer.

[culookn]

Valley I commend you on your building/fabracating knowledge. I myself own a 70 c10 longbed that I am getting ready to bag myself. My bag setup wont be as complex as your(basically a sucidedoors set up) but still along the same lines. My question is I myself will be using a set of devious 22" billets on the front and rear. But will the stock frame allow me to do this in the front? I have been doing some reasearch and people have been telling me to Z the frame or fab up a set of custome control arms an relocate the control arm mounts. But again, I dont have the building knowledge to fab up a set of custom control arms. Any chance on making an extra set that you would be interested in selling? .Oh yeh, I plan on doing a stock floor BD as well. Any help will be much appreciated.

[culookn]

this is the kit i was thinking about. what do you think?

[XXL]

Originally Posted by culookn

My question is I myself will be using a set of devious 22" billets on the front and rear. But will the stock frame allow me to do this in the front? I have been doing some reasearch and people have been telling me to Z the frame or fab up a set of custome control arms an relocate the control arm mounts.

A very common discussion point, and a real misconception, is the idea of wheel diameter being the critical element in lowering and clearance. The issue here is whether the tire will fit, not the wheel. You've got PLENTY of room for a 22" diameter wheel (assuming wheel width is OK), but you're going to want a tire on that wheel or you're going to really scuff up the lip and the rid will be just plain awful. So... let's talk in terms of tire diameter. With a 27" tire (that's what I have-- 255/50/17), dropped spindles, bags, 1.5" xmember section, and ART control arms, I've got the crossmember sitting on the ground and the tires have about 1" of clearance in my VERY sectioned fender (inner fender is gone and stock inner arch is moved up to within an inch of the top edge of the gutter that receives the hood.

Now, back to your 22's. I'm guessing you're going to have something a little bigger than a rubber band on that wheel, so let's go with 28" tire to start. That's a meager 3" of rubber (3" top + 3" bottom + 22" wheel = 28 " overall diameter). That means you've got 1/2" more truck to drop than mine, which is not particularly close to what valleycustom has got going on.

[XXL]

Here's a shot of the fender clearance I mentioned above...

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by onehot69stepside

I don't know how many times I have read every post and stare at every pic of this thread. I have pondered upon it so much and have decided to build a chassis as you have done. I think my fab skills are decent enough now after bagging about a dozen trucks or so. I was just wondering if i could pick your brain on a few things.

I have a whole crap load of 3" square tubing in my dads yard to build my table but it is 1/8 inch thick rather than 1/4 inch thick. Will there be a problem with give or warpage if i use the 1/8" thick steel even if i put legs at more intervals?

My biggest question is how you cut the angles on the rails where it narrows into the front clip. Did you have them cut on a compound angle band saw or what. I was thinking that if I jigged up the horizontal section that the upr ctrl arm and bag mounts to on the table, and i jig up the horizontal section that lays on the ground under the cab on the table, i could measure the lengths of each corresponding corners and do my own compound cuts with a cut off wheel and keep attempting till i get it right. Or should i get my hands on a nice compound miter saw and say screw it and throw a metal blade in it.

The front suspension I pretty much have it worked out being that i did one big unsafe experiment on my ride about a year ago. I didn't want to z my frame so i built a custom crossmember and control arms and mounted a mustang rack on it. I did a few things wrong on it and it has horrible bumpsteer but I have figured out what needs to be done. First, I'm going to jig up my stock arms and build tubulars. Then, so i can use a mustang rack and pinion, Im going to widen the ctrl arm mounting locations a 1/4 inch (1/8 inch on each side to account for the differences between the inner tie rod ball joint centers. A mustang r & p's center to center dimension is 24" and a 63-87's centerlink inner tie rod center to center dimension is 23 3/4") Then I have to set the rack n pinions inner balljoints at the exact vertical and front to back location ( looking at the frame from the front) as the centerlinks ball joints. Does that make sense?

I have all sorts of ideas for my chassis and ill post more of my ideas if i think they need criticism. thanks

1/8" I feel isn't thick enough for a table. I would go with at least 3/16". As for cutting the frame rails I took my bandsaw and went to town. It took a while but I finally got the angles I needed.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by XXL

A very common discussion point, and a real misconception, is the idea of wheel diameter being the critical element in lowering and clearance. The issue here is whether the tire will fit, not the wheel. You've got PLENTY of room for a 22" diameter wheel (assuming wheel width is OK), but you're going to want a tire on that wheel or you're going to really scuff up the lip and the rid will be just plain awful. So... let's talk in terms of tire diameter. With a 27" tire (that's what I have-- 255/50/17), dropped spindles, bags, 1.5" xmember section, and ART control arms, I've got the crossmember sitting on the ground and the tires have about 1" of clearance in my VERY sectioned fender (inner fender is gone and stock inner arch is moved up to within an inch of the top edge of the gutter that receives the hood.

Now, back to your 22's. I'm guessing you're going to have something a little bigger than a rubber band on that wheel, so let's go with 28" tire to start. That's a meager 3" of rubber (3" top + 3" bottom + 22" wheel = 28 " overall diameter). That means you've got 1/2" more truck to drop than mine, which is not particularly close to what valleycustom has got going on.

The wheel and tire combo I'm running is 30". I'm running 285/35-22

[valleycustom]

Well I'm going to be putting this truck on the back 40 for a while. I'm going to start on the blue 71 that was in my driveway. I'm going to get a new thread going for that also. It's going to be running a custom canti setup with a jag rearend. It's also going to be rolling on 20" 22" bonspeeds. Just wait until you see the setup in the truck now.

[culookn]

valley i need some updates on that blue truck. your work is top notch by the way.