new complete floor pan or patch panels?

[Blizz]

i have the pans already but i'm thinking it's gonna be a pain in the butt so i'm seriously considering replacing the entire floor with the complete floor pan. what are the pros and cons? what would be easier?

[Blizz]

ttt

[lawricker]

Don't you think you are gonna increase the pain by replacing the whole floor?
the pans are a small pain..don't know what brand etc you have, but you will have to do some fitting, but generally not a huge deal.. the whole floor a much bigger deal IMO..Like all body work, Paitience....measure twice...

[Sgt.Booya]

Like this one from Goodmark? I think it comes with new front and rear cab supports attached too. $299.95 I think.

I'm considering this too (down the road when i get to the bodywork). I know its just a new product just this summer but I'd be interested to hear anybody's experiences with these? Wondering how hard this might be for someone new to welding?

[Huck]

Most experienced body shops will recommend replacing just what needs replacing to minimize the time, and the alignment issues. Blazers especially are subject to body twist, sag, etc. If it rusted through in multiple places that significantly inpact strength of the overall--then you probably would be better off with a complete replacement. A few small rust through spots are not the justification in my mind. OUter rockers and inner rockers are almost normal these days but a complete floor pan followed by inner torque boxes then rockers---well that is a big job that you may regret once into it. Better know how to use a torch, keep the firewall to rear quarters aligned with the top on etc.

[Blizz]

part of my floor support is gone....where could i get a piece like that if not from a whole floo?\r?

[Scrubby]

I too have been looking at this. My floor rust is pretty extensive and in the end, a full floor might just be easier. I agree with Blizz, if part of the supports are gone, where can you get that? Your going to have to fab it. I think the full floor makes more sense.

Measure twice and keep everything in alignment. I don't think it would be too bad.

Pete

[Blizz]

would putting the top on and welding in some braces in the door openings take care of some of the flexing/twisting?

[72CSTC5]

Blizz you are better off just replacing the sections of floor that you need. I would bet money that the floor is probably a little bit off as far as dimensions go and probably thinner gauge sheetmetal.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Blizz

would putting the top on and welding in some braces in the door openings take care of some of the flexing/twisting?

Yep, do that and it'll help alot.

No answers/suggestion's on the cmplete floor thing but interested in seeing one installed.

[Classic Heartbeat]

Replacing the floor with this piece would require some modifications to the new floor, but would be do-able if you were so inclined. You would however have to remove any structure that the door opening has to do this though. I have seen a few guys on this board do it though with parts from donor trucks though. I think that it would be a misstake to leave the top on for this particular venture though. I would take some good measurements, modify the new floor and then cut the old floor, and firewall off. Then it would be test fit time!! I would temperarily reassemble starting with the floor, then the firewall and windshield frame. I would install the top and doors at this time, using them as my gauges to make sure that everything is back where it belongs. Once I was happy with the looks of the door opening and top placement, I would then weld it up tight with the top and doors on. Then finally I would install the new rocker box rear support, rockerbox, and rocker box end cap. Not a job for the faint of heart..lol WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com