going from 6 lug to 5 lug

[69 air cab]

anyone have any suggestions on the best (easy and lowest cost) way to change my 69 C10 from a 6 wheel lug to a 5 lug? Is it better to change the rearend all together?....and if so what should I use. I also plan to add disc brks on the front and drop it so I guess the lug change can happen on the front then.......correct?
Thanks

[N2TRUX]

Probably the most economical way is to find a later model donor truck that you can swap the parts from. Locate a rusted or wrecked truck that can be bought for cheap, swap all the parts and sell anything left to recover your money.

The 73-87 crossmember swap is pretty common. The rear is a different story due to width. I "think" 69 was the transition year that had two different widths. I'm sure some of the resident 67-72 experts will stop in and clarify that for you...

[SCOTI]

Changing to 5-lug up front is a simple disc brake conversion. For the rear bolt pattern, you can:
1) Re-drill the original axles & use 71~72 drums. This would be cheapest but then you'll still have 30+ year old axles.
2) Swap in a later rear w/the correct bolt pattern. If you can get another rear end cheap & you can do some med difficulty fabrication (or know of a shop to do it for you) yhis can be a cost effective alternative.
3) Or..... swap the axles w/new upgraded strength axles that are the correct bolt pattern & use 71~72 drums. There's several vendors that sell '6 to 5-lug' conversion kits. This is not only is the easiest to do, you get brand new higher quality/strength axles in the process.

Choice # 3 would be what I suggest.

[lilpup69chevy]

i heard from a person who has done the swap before so don't quote me on this but he told me that 70 had the wider rearend

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lilpup69chevy

i heard from a person who has done the swap before so don't quote me on this but he told me that 70 had the wider rearend

From what I've experienced & from what others have discussed, the width change occurred sometime during the 70 year model so some could possibly still have the 'shorter' 67~69 rear.

[lilpup69chevy]

thanks for clearing that up scoti, guess the best way would be to measure it and find out what ya got

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

From what I've experienced & from what others have discussed, the width change occurred sometime during the 70 year model so some could possibly still have the 'shorter' 67~69 rear.

So 1970 was the transition year? I didn't miss it by much...

[69 air cab]

Re-drill the original axles & use 71~72 drums. This would be cheapest but then you'll still have 30+ year old axles.

So Scoti..........do I have to pull the axle to redrill it? Sorry for what might be a dumb question but I am not an axle guy.
thanks

[roj2323]

i've been looking into the redrilling the rear axles and it's not as simple as drilling a couple holes. no matter how you place the 5 lug drum on the 6 lug axle the holes tend to overlap. since the holes do overlap the old holes will need to be welded in before you can drill. also the centering flange "or whatever it's called" is too big to fit the 71 drums. it needs to be turned down around 11mm to fit the drums. by the time it's all said and done, unless you have a machine shop, it's cheaper to just buy replacement axles.
ondrew

[Robznob11]

i bought moser axles with 1/2 screw in studs for my rear for 280.00 to the door, you can get a little cheaper if you buy regular studs.. some places offer cheaper axles too but mine are 40% stronger than stock and non tapered!!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 69 air cab

.... do I have to pull the axle to redrill it? Sorry for what might be a dumb question but I am not an axle guy.
thanks

Yes, the axles are pulled to re-drill the bolt pattern.

Originally Posted by roj2323

i've been looking into the redrilling the rear axles and it's not as simple as drilling a couple holes. no matter how you place the 5 lug drum on the 6 lug axle the holes tend to overlap. since the holes do overlap the old holes will need to be welded in before you can drill.

Only 1 of the holes will need to be plugged (welded up) before redrilling. The rest can be drilled when you rotate the pattern slightly (that's how my original axles were done). Yes, the axle 'hub' will also need to be cut down slightly as well.

Originally Posted by Robznob11

i bought moser axles with 1/2 screw in studs for my rear for 280.00 to the door, you can get a little cheaper if you buy regular studs.. some places offer cheaper axles too but mine are 40% stronger than stock and non tapered!!

This is how I went the second time around. I wasn't to pleased w/Moser as the splines were not quite right so it was frustrating getting the issues worked out (they lost my spider gear & said I must not have put it in the box yet it was taped to the axle to keep the 2pcs together..... & they got the axle!).

[dennislbrooks]

If I do another set, I would only weld the single hole that has to overlap.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=163480

[junkyardjohn]

I Have A 9" Ford Rear End Out Of A 75 Mkiv For My 72 1/2 Ton Project . I Had It Rebuilt With A Possi Center Section & A 355-1 Ring & Pinion. They Came Stock With A 5 On 5 Boltpattern (same As Our Trucks) & It Has Disc Brakes. The Rear End Was About $80 Out Of A Boneyard & I Bartered With A Guy That I Knew That Owned A Driveline Shop To Rebuild It. John