Extreme Drop Crossmember

[stepside67]

Looking for advice on ECE Extreme Drop Crossmember for my 67 SWB Stepside project . Right now I am early stages of frame off resto - truck is in pieces in my garage. I am going with ECE 4/6 Drop. Should I go ahead and get Drop Crossmember while I have it torn down? Would be alot easier to install as this stage... Any feedback appreciated

[powell72]

I personally would put my money towards something else on the project.

[IvelDesigns]

i'm asking this out of ignorance, but what are the advantages of a drop crossmember?

[stepside67]

From what I have read on the ECE siteyou get an extra 2.5" ground clearance, driveshaft loop is elongated on top to keep driveshaft from rubbing and cutout for dual exhaust to pass-thru the crossmember. Actually when I bought my drop kit from ECE they said I really was not necessary with 4/6...

-Keith

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by IvelDesigns

i'm asking this out of ignorance, but what are the advantages of a drop crossmember?

The "drop crossmember" from ECE offers:

1) It keeps the lower part of the trailing arm c.member flush w/the bottom of the frame rails (stockers hang down enough to be a problem if you're trying to plant the frame rails. Same thing can be accomplished w/a stock c.member, some fab skills & hand tools.)

2) Allows you to reduce the amount of pinion angle by relocating the mounting tabs higher on the c.member (same thing can be accomplished w/a stock c.member, some fab skills & hand tools.)

3) Has holes to allow exhaust to pass through & remain above the frame rails (another problem for those that are more than moderately low. Same thing can be accomplished w/a stock c.member, some fab skills & hand tools.)

4) It allows you to run faster because you have less weight in your pockets to slow you down (that being said, I have one I bought used from a board member for such a good price it was cheaper than my time to get dirty fabbing the stock c.member).

[IvelDesigns]

oh ok, so we're not talkin about he c=member under the engine. this is the one for the carrier bearing.

i read many of the articles talking about the things you mentioned, like for the exhaust holes, etc.

i plan to bag my truck, but it won't be layin frame. i may need to look into buying one of these at some point. I'd fab one myself, but don't quite trust my fab skills for something like this

[stepside67]

TTT - anyone else installed one ?

[lvscott]

I used it, now is the time to install it if you are down to the frame. If you are thinking 4-link in the future don't waste your money, but if that is not an option, go for it, there is nothing like the brown truck bringing you a new toy and having it installed an hour latter and really feeling like you accomplished something. Make sure you get the one from ece though, on the classic performance ones they welded on the trailing arm mounting brakets.

[see ten]

I have one in my C10 and I could see where it would be easier to install with the cab removed. Even if your project ends up going another direction and you don't need the xmember, it should still work with a 1 piece driveshaft.

[CJJ67]

lvscott, why would the welded on brackets for the trailing arms be a bad thing? How are the brackets for the ece crossmember mounted? I am learning what to do and not to do.

[thekid54]

Don't mean to step on anyones toes, but allow me to jump in here. I learned the hard way on this, so I wanted to pass on what I learned. The ECE brackets are bolted to the crossmember, while the CPP ones are welded. In addition to welding them, CPP inverted them in order to correct pinion angle issues. This also moves the mounting point of the trailing arms up about 2". If you plan on going really low (say more than 5-6") using the CPP version, the trailing arms will hit the frame rails much sooner, limiting how low you can go. ECE bolts their brackets to the cross member and you have the option of keeping them in the stock location, or inverting them to correct pinion angle issues. I'm going to get rid of my CPP crossmember, especially since I made my own trailing arms that run on the outside of the frame rail.

[CJJ67]

thanks thekid54...here's another reason why I'm glad I found this site...

[lvscott]

Originally Posted by thekid54

Don't mean to step on anyones toes, but allow me to jump in here. I learned the hard way on this, so I wanted to pass on what I learned. The ECE brackets are bolted to the crossmember, while the CPP ones are welded. In addition to welding them, CPP inverted them in order to correct pinion angle issues. This also moves the mounting point of the trailing arms up about 2". If you plan on going really low (say more than 5-6") using the CPP version, the trailing arms will hit the frame rails much sooner, limiting how low you can go. ECE bolts their brackets to the cross member and you have the option of keeping them in the stock location, or inverting them to correct pinion angle issues. I'm going to get rid of my CPP crossmember, especially since I made my own trailing arms that run on the outside of the frame rail.

Thats the same problem that other people on the board have complained about when using the cpp version. one member said that it actually raised his truck in the rear.

[thekid54]

Yeah, what really sucks is that they misrepresent the product on their website! I don't know if they have fixed it yet, even for 2-3 months after I bought mine and complained they still had on old picture of it on the website. I bought mine directly form them and stupid me didn't open the box to check it out. I got it home put it in my frame, installed the trailing arms, and then...hey wait a minute what's going on here?! It wasn't until I saw the ECE site and realized what the problem was.