Rear Set-up

[BigShoe24]

Ok guys, I have been thinking about this for awhile and cant make my mind up. As of now, I have installed my kpcomponent step-notch. I have a 68 swb and already have the front bagged. Im wondering what is the most practical way to set-up the rear. Should I keep the stock setup, two long trailing arms? Should I replace them with some aftermarket ones? Or should I go with a
4-link? This is my first truck, so I dont want to get crazy, but I want to do it right. Any pictures of rear suspension's would help tremendously! Thanks

[jimmydean]

The easiest would be to keep the stock trailing arms if they are in good shape and just add bags to the rear. If the arms are rusted or starting to come apart, then tubular arms would be a nice option.

If you want to get low, then a 4 link would be nice.

[leftcoast66]

ya, sounds like ur not plannin to lay on the ground by any means, so I'd go for just bags ontop of your trailing arms, or a 4 link of the trailing arms are fallin apart.

[project76]

I agree bags and blocks for the stock trailing arms will get you really low.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by project76

I agree bags and blocks for the stock trailing arms will get you really low.

With only a stepnotch I don't think he'd have room to go any higher with blocks. The axle tucks up high to begin with and would probably only be able to use 1 inch block at most IMO.

[BigShoe24]

Its a 7" notch, Also, what kinda of money would it be to rebuild my rearend? Im pretty sure everthing is shot, also need to swith from 6 to 5 lug. Does anyone have a few pics? I need some visual please!

[jimmydean]

When I called around about a rebuild, it was about $800, but that included a rebuild of the posi unit. I ended up changing the oil and adding the friction modifier, cleared the "clunk" I had right up.

They now offer a 5 lug axel that you can swap out if you're having the rear done anyway.

[BigShoe24]

Sorry, Im attempting to upload some pics

[project76]

Looks great!! With the drop spindles on there and a decent size tire you will be laying that crossmember on the ground. I had the same kp notch out back and with bags and blocks you will be laying it lower than the front. Are you looking to go disk or stay drum when you go to 5 lug out back?

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by project76

Looks great!! With the drop spindles on there and a decent size tire you will be laying that crossmember on the ground. I had the same kp notch out back and with bags and blocks you will be laying it lower than the front. Are you looking to go disk or stay drum when you go to 5 lug out back?

Where do you have your bags mounted out back? With the KP step notch where do they mount up top? Still in the factory spring location? Reason I ask is because I just have the CPP bolt-in c-notch and have Slam RE7 bags and they are on the internal bumpstops when I air it out and the axle is just touching the top of the notch without the snubber in it. I don't see how I'd get any lower with the bags in the factory location so it would be pointless to do a stepnotch unless I mount the bags elsewhere. Do you have any pics of your setup?

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by BigShoe24

Its a 7" notch, Also, what kinda of money would it be to rebuild my rearend? Im pretty sure everthing is shot, also need to swith from 6 to 5 lug. Does anyone have a few pics? I need some visual please!

I stand corrected, 7" notch u'll want either tubular trailing arms or somehtin like that to get it lower or blocks like bigshoe suggested.

[project76]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

Where do you have your bags mounted out back? With the KP step notch where do they mount up top? Still in the factory spring location? Reason I ask is because I just have the CPP bolt-in c-notch and have Slam RE7 bags and they are on the internal bumpstops when I air it out and the axle is just touching the top of the notch without the snubber in it. I don't see how I'd get any lower with the bags in the factory location so it would be pointless to do a stepnotch unless I mount the bags elsewhere. Do you have any pics of your setup?

I ditched the setup last month and im building a full backhalf with a kp 4 link as we speak. I am buying a dropmember from porterbuilt in a few months so i need to get the rear a few inches lower. When i had the step notch i made a bridge between the notch's and mounted my bags on the front of the axle with a kit from suicidedoors. I dont have any pics but its just your basic bridge kit with bags mounted in front of the axle not over it like some do. If you want to keep the bags in the stock location and get very low, you are gonna have to build your own notch and bring it all the way up past where the trailing arms cross under the frame. How low do you wanna go? Keep in mind that your not gonna get much lower without going into the bed floor.

[BigShoe24]

As of know, Im planning on staying with the stock trailing arms, perhaps replacing them with tubular bars. With the Kp notch, slam bags, and will probably place the bags in front of the rear-end. The guy that owns use to have a black truck posted on this site with the exact set-up. If anyone can find it, I would appreciate it. Keep comming with the input though, every idea help!

[el curioso]

I know that im going to get chewed out on this but here it goes

If your willing to stay with your trailing arm set up and have some fab skills why not build a 2 link set up running along the uot side of your frame and have the pinion angle at ride hight. Thene later if you whant to four link the bars can easily be modified for a 4 link set up.

JMO.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by el curioso

I know that im going to get chewed out on this but here it goes

If your willing to stay with your trailing arm set up and have some fab skills why not build a 2 link set up running along the uot side of your frame and have the pinion angle at ride hight. Thene later if you whant to four link the bars can easily be modified for a 4 link set up.

JMO.

because 2-links ride like dog-s*$@. I'd rather have air-over-leaf than a 2-link, and that's not saying much..... Every truck I've ridden in with a 2-link was awful. Driveline vibration, wheel hop, and rough ride. The driveline vibration can be fixed if you always want to keep it at a fixed ride height, but the other issues don't go away.