Lift Kit Installation - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Purs · 12-12-2002, 08:14 PM

I just got my 2" lift from ORD in today and thought I'd get some advice from some folks who've done this before. Can anyone give me some "Do's and Don't's" about the install. Can't wait to see what she looks like!

Here's a before pic

the tires are 33x12.50's on 8" wheels

67cst · 12-12-2002, 08:19 PM

dude that sits awesome as it is, when will we see the after pic?

Alexis · 12-12-2002, 08:24 PM

What does the kit come with? Doing lifts on our trucks is a whole lot more simple then new trucks. it almost like lowering them. shouldn't take more then 2 hours if you got everything layed out right. If you replacing eye bolt be very careful cause you can strip them while getting them through the leaf spring or bolting them down. Do one side at a time dont just bring down the whole axle. Somtime you got to loosen up the u-bolt on the other side of the axle just to have some ease at putting in one side so dont tighten one side down all the way leave some room to flew the suspension a little. The front, just disconnect what connected to the axle nothing more. grrrrr hope it helps.

Purs · 12-12-2002, 09:03 PM

the kit comes with front springs rear blocks and all the hardware, ubolts, etc. thanks for the responses so far. Keep'em coming!

**Classic Heartbeat** · 12-12-2002, 09:46 PM

Ya!! Don't do it!!! LOL No not realy.. I kinda wished that my 72 Didn't have the 4" lift in it though. It rides real rough in comparison to the original springs. What I do is to unbolt the shocks and the rear end from the springs while the truck is still on the ground and place a jack stand under the nose of the rear end to keep it from rotating toward the ground while lifting the truck. Then I jack the back of the truck up, leaving the rear end on the floor. I allways do the rear then front because the rear all you will be doing is adding the block so it is easier to do.) With a 2" lift you won't even have to unbolt the drivelines, brake lines or e-brake cables. Add the blocks and shims if supplied, then lower the truck back down on the rear end and bolt it back together. For the front, Did you get a new steering arm? That is the tough one to replace... Especially after all these years...LOL I wish I new an easy way to remove that!! I unbolt the 3 bolts, spray the living crap out of the studs and cone shaped shims with w-d 40, then let it set for an hour or so. The go under the truck with a 3lb fist maul and beat the heck out of the steering arm to brake the shims loose. (I hope someone has an easier way to do that). Anyway repeat the process with the front end (again don't try to save the bolts,) just break out the toarch..... Additionally you will need to take the drag link loose from the steering arm (befor you lift the truck up) a pickle fork helps that process emensly.. You won't have to take your front brake lines or driveline loose here either...Lift the truck high enough to make enough room to work (without suspending the front end by the brake lines...LOL) I unbolt the shackles and let the rear of the springs drop down then do the front spring pin to remove them. Reverce the process to put back together, let the truck down, and admire your work!! WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

OLDCHEV4X4 · 12-12-2002, 10:05 PM

If your kit didnt come with the front spring eye bolts , find them befor you start. They are a odd size. ..9/16-18 x 5" long..with the thick washers and a robertson nut,(self locking). You need 2 bolts.
At the shackle end you need 7/16-20 x 5" long with the thick washers and robertson nuts.. You need 4 bolts.
You might want to replace the shackle bushings in the frame while its apart.
Tighten the rear u bolts evenly and in increments so that you dont break the ears off of the u bolt plate that goes under the axle.
With a 2" lift, i dont think you'll have to lengthen brake lines or put on a stearing arm.
Randy

chris 71K5 · 12-13-2002, 02:05 AM

Use plenty of grease on the bushings and don't over tourque the shackles, this is why a lot of trucks ride terrible after a lift

**JIMs70GMC** · 12-13-2002, 06:18 AM

I ordered the same kit earlier this week and I'm waiting paitently for it to arrive. In regards to the shackle end you want to tighten them after you remove the jacks and have the full weight on the springs, if not you'll kind of preload them. As mentioned earlier do not over tighten. I have not seen the directions yet, but you'll want to recheck all the bolts after about 50 miles of driving. Also, as mentioned earlier replace the bushing in the frame.

tim m · 12-13-2002, 07:56 AM

Do you have a web site, or phone number for ORD. I have never heard of them. I want to get a 2 1/2 lift, but I have had trouble finding one.

**JIMs70GMC** · 12-13-2002, 09:23 AM

www.offroaddesign.com

694X4 · 12-13-2002, 05:09 PM

The bushings for the shakles in the frame are like $36 from energy suspention and a very good idea. You should not need the stearing arm and be thankful for that. I have one still on a stearing knuckle and every time I walk buy it in the garage I hit it 20-30 times with a 3lb. sledge and I have been doing that for about 2 years now and the old ***** still wont give up and fall off.

teeitup · 12-13-2002, 05:41 PM

Purs, You'll like the 2 inch lift thats what I got on my burb and 67. To me it makes the trucks look better! I got 33x12.50x15 on mine also. Good luck I did both of mine but still cussed alot.

Randy

Purs · 12-13-2002, 07:55 PM

thanks for the responses. Do you guys think that I can get the bushings locally like autozone, pep boys, etc...?

Randy, thanks. Your truck and a couple others I've seen on the board with the 2" lifts are the reason I wanted to get mine!

Milenko72276 · 12-14-2002, 12:53 AM

2 inches????Does that look any different?Just kiddin,nice looking truck.

OLDCHEV4X4 · 12-14-2002, 12:59 PM

purs...is that a gas filler door on the left rear of your bed??
Did you find the bolts yet?
Randy

Purs · 12-14-2002, 04:51 PM

Randy,

10-4 on the gas filler door, and I haven't had a chance to even open the boxes yet. My wife has had me remodling one of our bathrooms. It's hard to tile a shower while all your thinking about is your new lift kit!

JJk10 · 12-15-2002, 12:15 AM

My brother and I put on a 4" lift on my truck during the spring, I had rebuilt the front end previous to this had it istalled before I could afford the lift. You guys all mentioned the trouble of removing the steering arm, mine had been on for 30 years in the northeast...rust belt. what is suppose to happen in after removing the bolts you take a punch to the opening on the cone washers, this is suppose to loosen them so that they can be removed. I ended up bringing it to a welding shop and the owner and I went at it with some heat, and many chisels. the best tool ended up being a large wedge shaped peice of 3/4 steal that was eventually able to get it off. we still had to beat the washers to get them out of the arm. I know the story is a little long but some of you mentioned that you still have the arm attached. before installing the cone washers I added some antiseize to them, this may help whenerver I get around to putting the new steering arm that came with the lift on.

**Yukon Jack** · 12-15-2002, 10:31 AM

You can check out my website as I detailed my 4" lift install. Should have gone 6", oh hell, should have gone 8". I'm never satisfied. Good luck and have fun.

breeh · 12-15-2002, 02:43 PM

Here is a pic of the ORD shackles. They are much beefier.

12-12-2002, 08:14 PM	#1
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	Lift Kit Installation I just got my 2" lift from ORD in today and thought I'd get some advice from some folks who've done this before. Can anyone give me some "Do's and Don't's" about the install. Can't wait to see what she looks like! Here's a before pic the tires are 33x12.50's on 8" wheels Attached Images __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

12-12-2002, 08:19 PM	#2
67cst i love summertime Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Kelowna BC Posts: 4,302	dude that sits awesome as it is, when will we see the after pic? __________________ 1967 shortbox stepside Chevy, 365 hp 327, th400. GLOVE BOX LIGHTS FORSALE, click link for info http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=273724

12-12-2002, 09:03 PM	#4
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	the kit comes with front springs rear blocks and all the hardware, ubolts, etc. thanks for the responses so far. Keep'em coming! __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

12-12-2002, 09:46 PM	#5
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,766	Ya!! Don't do it!!! LOL No not realy.. I kinda wished that my 72 Didn't have the 4" lift in it though. It rides real rough in comparison to the original springs. What I do is to unbolt the shocks and the rear end from the springs while the truck is still on the ground and place a jack stand under the nose of the rear end to keep it from rotating toward the ground while lifting the truck. Then I jack the back of the truck up, leaving the rear end on the floor. I allways do the rear then front because the rear all you will be doing is adding the block so it is easier to do.) With a 2" lift you won't even have to unbolt the drivelines, brake lines or e-brake cables. Add the blocks and shims if supplied, then lower the truck back down on the rear end and bolt it back together. For the front, Did you get a new steering arm? That is the tough one to replace... Especially after all these years...LOL I wish I new an easy way to remove that!! I unbolt the 3 bolts, spray the living crap out of the studs and cone shaped shims with w-d 40, then let it set for an hour or so. The go under the truck with a 3lb fist maul and beat the heck out of the steering arm to brake the shims loose. (I hope someone has an easier way to do that). Anyway repeat the process with the front end (again don't try to save the bolts,) just break out the toarch..... Additionally you will need to take the drag link loose from the steering arm (befor you lift the truck up) a pickle fork helps that process emensly.. You won't have to take your front brake lines or driveline loose here either...Lift the truck high enough to make enough room to work (without suspending the front end by the brake lines...LOL) I unbolt the shackles and let the rear of the springs drop down then do the front spring pin to remove them. Reverce the process to put back together, let the truck down, and admire your work!! WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

12-12-2002, 10:05 PM	#6
OLDCHEV4X4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Chester County PA, USA Posts: 1,228	If your kit didnt come with the front spring eye bolts , find them befor you start. They are a odd size. ..9/16-18 x 5" long..with the thick washers and a robertson nut,(self locking). You need 2 bolts. At the shackle end you need 7/16-20 x 5" long with the thick washers and robertson nuts.. You need 4 bolts. You might want to replace the shackle bushings in the frame while its apart. Tighten the rear u bolts evenly and in increments so that you dont break the ears off of the u bolt plate that goes under the axle. With a 2" lift, i dont think you'll have to lengthen brake lines or put on a stearing arm. Randy __________________ 72 k/10 short wideside 72 k/5 Blazer 72 K/5 Blazer - obstacle course racer 72 custom/10 8' bed 70 K/5 Blazer 67 C-30 GMC Flat bed 86 GMC K2500 Plow Truck 85 GMC K3500 84 M1008 85 M1008 77 G30 Motor Home 72 Sears 12hp Tractor Glenmoore, Pennsylvania

12-12-2002, 08:24 PM	#3
Alexis Member since 2000 Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Mountain View Ca / Mexico Posts: 7,874	What does the kit come with? Doing lifts on our trucks is a whole lot more simple then new trucks. it almost like lowering them. shouldn't take more then 2 hours if you got everything layed out right. If you replacing eye bolt be very careful cause you can strip them while getting them through the leaf spring or bolting them down. Do one side at a time dont just bring down the whole axle. Somtime you got to loosen up the u-bolt on the other side of the axle just to have some ease at putting in one side so dont tighten one side down all the way leave some room to flew the suspension a little. The front, just disconnect what connected to the axle nothing more. grrrrr hope it helps.

12-13-2002, 02:05 AM	#7
chris 71K5 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Dumont NJ Posts: 31	Use plenty of grease on the bushings and don't over tourque the shackles, this is why a lot of trucks ride terrible after a lift __________________ 71 K5 w/ mods Click Here

12-13-2002, 06:18 AM	#8
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	I ordered the same kit earlier this week and I'm waiting paitently for it to arrive. In regards to the shackle end you want to tighten them after you remove the jacks and have the full weight on the springs, if not you'll kind of preload them. As mentioned earlier do not over tighten. I have not seen the directions yet, but you'll want to recheck all the bolts after about 50 miles of driving. Also, as mentioned earlier replace the bushing in the frame. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

12-13-2002, 07:56 AM	#9
tim m Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Gilbert Az Posts: 286	Do you have a web site, or phone number for ORD. I have never heard of them. I want to get a 2 1/2 lift, but I have had trouble finding one. __________________ 1970 k10 1971 C10 Gilbert Az

12-13-2002, 09:23 AM	#10
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	www.offroaddesign.com __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

12-13-2002, 05:09 PM	#11
694X4 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: utica, oh, Posts: 249	The bushings for the shakles in the frame are like $36 from energy suspention and a very good idea. You should not need the stearing arm and be thankful for that. I have one still on a stearing knuckle and every time I walk buy it in the garage I hit it 20-30 times with a 3lb. sledge and I have been doing that for about 2 years now and the old ***** still wont give up and fall off. __________________ 69 3/4 ton 4x4 gmc with 6" sky jacker soft ride. 350 / th350 / 205 work in progress

12-13-2002, 05:41 PM	#12
teeitup Just like to part out trucks!! Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Meriden, Ks-North of Topeka 10 miles Posts: 27,395	Purs, You'll like the 2 inch lift thats what I got on my burb and 67. To me it makes the trucks look better! I got 33x12.50x15 on mine also. Good luck I did both of mine but still cussed alot. Randy __________________ 67 Chev swb stepside 4x4 283 4 speed SOLD 72 blazer 4x4 4 speed Cheyenne 72 GMC swb 4x4 fleet 4 speed, original paint 1958 Cameo (one of 1405 built, it was my dads) 2020 chevy Apex 4x4 crew cab 1969 Z28 with the 302 1980 chevy swb 4x4 1964 chevell Malibu SS 1976 K20, sold new originally out of my dads chevy dealership Members that I've met, over 200 probably closer to 300 in the 12 years I've been on this site, everyone I met "It was a pleasure"

12-13-2002, 07:55 PM	#13
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	thanks for the responses. Do you guys think that I can get the bushings locally like autozone, pep boys, etc...? Randy, thanks. Your truck and a couple others I've seen on the board with the 2" lifts are the reason I wanted to get mine! __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

12-14-2002, 12:53 AM	#14
Milenko72276 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Richmond MO,USA Posts: 73	2 inches????Does that look any different?Just kiddin,nice looking truck. __________________ 72' Camper Special,454,th350,np205,4.56 locker,dana44 with spool,13" of lift and 44" boggers.soon to be 23" with rear disc brakes

12-14-2002, 12:59 PM	#15
OLDCHEV4X4 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Chester County PA, USA Posts: 1,228	purs...is that a gas filler door on the left rear of your bed?? Did you find the bolts yet? Randy __________________ 72 k/10 short wideside 72 k/5 Blazer 72 K/5 Blazer - obstacle course racer 72 custom/10 8' bed 70 K/5 Blazer 67 C-30 GMC Flat bed 86 GMC K2500 Plow Truck 85 GMC K3500 84 M1008 85 M1008 77 G30 Motor Home 72 Sears 12hp Tractor Glenmoore, Pennsylvania



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12-14-2002, 04:51 PM	#16
Purs Got Big Block? Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: West Texas Posts: 1,510	Randy, 10-4 on the gas filler door, and I haven't had a chance to even open the boxes yet. My wife has had me remodling one of our bathrooms. It's hard to tile a shower while all your thinking about is your new lift kit! __________________ "Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted."

12-15-2002, 12:15 AM	#17
JJk10 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: grand bay, new brunswick , Canada Posts: 648	My brother and I put on a 4" lift on my truck during the spring, I had rebuilt the front end previous to this had it istalled before I could afford the lift. You guys all mentioned the trouble of removing the steering arm, mine had been on for 30 years in the northeast...rust belt. what is suppose to happen in after removing the bolts you take a punch to the opening on the cone washers, this is suppose to loosen them so that they can be removed. I ended up bringing it to a welding shop and the owner and I went at it with some heat, and many chisels. the best tool ended up being a large wedge shaped peice of 3/4 steal that was eventually able to get it off. we still had to beat the washers to get them out of the arm. I know the story is a little long but some of you mentioned that you still have the arm attached. before installing the cone washers I added some antiseize to them, this may help whenerver I get around to putting the new steering arm that came with the lift on. __________________ Displaced Canadian in Monterey California 1970 K10, 350 HEI, 4spd. 3.73's NP205 33"BFG Mud Terrains Edelbrock Intake and carb. 12 bolt rear,dana 44 front with disk brakes

12-15-2002, 10:31 AM	#18
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,686	You can check out my website as I detailed my 4" lift install. Should have gone 6", oh hell, should have gone 8". I'm never satisfied. Good luck and have fun. __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14

12-15-2002, 02:43 PM	#19
breeh Recovering 67-72 Addict Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: North Bend, WA Posts: 1,788	Here is a pic of the ORD shackles. They are much beefier. Attached Images __________________ 68 Short Fleet 4x4; 427; BTO Level 3 700R4; NP205; Dana 60 front and rear; 4" lift with 35's; Disc brakes; AGR variable ratio steering; factory bucket seats; factory tach and tilt. "Friends call me cruzer cuz I like fast cars and fast women"

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