How to get doors to close like a new car

[Rc 415]

I'm havin to slam my doors pretty hard just to get them to close all the way and I'm gettin tired of it, what should I do to make it close like a new car?

[N2TRUX]

First thing to look at is replacing your hinge pins and bushing. Your hinge might be worn too, but look at the pins and bushing first. After that you will probably need to replace the striker bushing to take the slack out. It get worn from the excessive drag created by the door sagging.

[85 c-10]

Another issue I have noticed is, after the weatherstripping has been replaced and the door seals real well, the cab will hold air much better. When you shut the door, the air in the cab can not escape and without a hard slam, the door may not close all the way. I have seen this on trucks upto the mid 90's. My father had an 88 when I was younger and the drivers corner of the rear window ended up popping out of the seal when he shut his door one time. I don't really know a way around this unless there is a manual vent in the kick panel area that can be left open. Just a thought.

Josh

[kevinr1970]

My '06 is like that. I have to be firm when shutting it if both windows are up.

Originally Posted by 85 c-10

Another issue I have noticed is, after the weatherstripping has been replaced and the door seals real well, the cab will hold air much better. When you shut the door, the air in the cab can not escape and without a hard slam, the door may not close all the way. I have seen this on trucks upto the mid 90's. My father had an 88 when I was younger and the drivers corner of the rear window ended up popping out of the seal when he shut his door one time. I don't really know a way around this unless there is a manual vent in the kick panel area that can be left open. Just a thought.

Josh

[Russell]

My 96 is the same way. My GMC's doors / windows always sealed really well which meant I didn't have much wind noise, however, It had some big holes in the floor that prevented problems in closing the doors, lol

[bb1979]

Definity agree with all the above if the seals have been replaced closing the doors can be a total PITA. Opening the kick panel vents helps a little but not much. My dads truck had a rebuild nearly 12 years ago and the seals still haven't worn to a point where it shuts easy.

If you haven't replaced the seals then replace the hinge pins and strikers. I find its easier to totally replace the upper hinge vs the pin. The lower hinges don't seem to wear as much

[75sierraclassic]

I have this problem too in my 75. I've never investigated, but on the doors it seems to have a vent to the outside. There are louvers on the lower inside of the door and there are louvers on the rear of the door. Is there some type of valve inside the door that gets worn out and won't let the air bleed?

[Zoomad75]

I'd shoot for the hinge pins first. After 20 plus years chances are you might have a couple that had already been replaced. Kits are $5 a shot to fix 1 hinge at the zone or other parts store. Take your time and make sure you line up the doors when you bolt it back on.

My example is on my 75 K5. My doors were so sloppy that you would have to slam the doors hard while lifting up to get it to shut. It had been like that before I got it as the driver side striker pin had been hit hard enough to crack the sheetmetal around it and bend the metal slightly. After a few hours of rebuilding the hinges and welding up cracks we spent the rest of the time aligning the doors. Two guys are best for this. One to hold the door and the other to cinch up the bolts. Once we finished the doors shut really good with no need to kick the door in to shut it. I don't have to worry about the pressure situation as my K5 is far from sealed tight.

[liljon285]

Take off the radiator cap..and put a new car under it and BOOM u got a new car door closing car lol. I heard that joke and had to say it again!

[Rc 415]

^^ I dont get it... haha you sure you got it right?

[liljon285]

i think lol.

[75sierraclassic]

Originally Posted by 75sierraclassic

I have this problem too in my 75. I've never investigated, but on the doors it seems to have a vent to the outside. There are louvers on the lower inside of the door and there are louvers on the rear of the door. Is there some type of valve inside the door that gets worn out and won't let the air bleed?

Attached is a picture of the vents in the doors. Anybody know if there is a valve or some device inside?

[benoit454]

I bet if you pull the one out of the back of the door it has rubber covering the holes, it's like a flap.

I've removed alot of thoose on cars when they are mounted in the post themselves, and they have rubber flap on the back. Kind of a one way valve let air in or out but not the other way, same goes for moisture, it helps to keep it out.