What exactly is required to lay frame on 20's and 22's

[needforspeed502]

Hey guys after ready a bunch of stuff on the forums about the porterbuilt dropmember and some options for the rear i still have a few questions.

First off, for the front suspension, with the porterbuilt dropmember are drop spindles still recommended? Also since the porterbuilt website is down, what all steering components are required, and is it simple to hook the new r&p up to any power steering pump(ie 5.3 ls motor)? One last front suspension question, which tubular a-arms work the best to help alleviate ball joint issues, or do they all do the same thing? Also i saw 3" drop a-arms???? from DJM i think, whats the deal with those? Oh yah this is all for 20" rims

Ok on the rear suspension, what is required to lay frame on 22's? Can the stock trailing arms do it with the ece trailing arm crossmember with a c-notch? Also how big of a c-notch? And on the kp 6 link kit, will that work on a 72 2wd blazer or no? Only says 73-. Any other options for the rear that i left out please fill me in on.

Thanks guys for whatever you can offer

[gringoloco]

This would get more traffic in the suspension forum, but I'll give you some Blazer specific info.

Drop spindles with the Dropmember will get you on the ground with a 29" tire. Consensus is to use the ART arms. I would not use the DJM arms with spindles, the spring pocket will be too close to the ground. If you are using a 4wd frame, the front arches higher so you wont need spindles to lay.

You will need at least a 10" notch to get it on the ground out back. You will lose your back seat. Trailing arms won't get you on the ground without major modification, i.e. back-half.

The KP 6-link would work with modification to the cantilever bracketry. There is a bolt-on kit for 63-72 trailing arm setups due out soon.

Steering components needed for the Dropmember are rack-and-pinion and u-joints to connect to the steering column. You will need to have hoses made to connect to the pump or find off the shelf items that will work. There are plenty out there to connect MII to GM pumps.

[needforspeed502]

Hey guys after ready a bunch of stuff on the forums about the porterbuilt dropmember and some options for the rear i still have a few questions.
I thought i would try this in the suspension forum to see if i got more replies. This would be goin on a 2wd 72 blazer. Also if a 4wd frame would work ok, let me know what would need to be done.

First off, for the front suspension, with the porterbuilt dropmember are drop spindles still recommended? Also since the porterbuilt website is down, what all steering components are required, and is it simple to hook the new r&p up to any power steering pump(ie 5.3 ls motor)? One last front suspension question, which tubular a-arms work the best to help alleviate ball joint issues, or do they all do the same thing? Also i saw 3" drop a-arms???? from DJM i think, whats the deal with those? Oh yah this is all for 20" rims

Ok on the rear suspension, what is required to lay frame on 22's? Can the stock trailing arms do it with the ece trailing arm crossmember with a c-notch? Also how big of a c-notch? And on the kp 6 link kit, will that work on a 72 2wd blazer or no? Only says 73-. Any other options for the rear that i left out please fill me in on.

Thanks guys for whatever you can offer

[needforspeed502]

What about with 20's in the back, not 22's? Would that be easier to do with the trailing arms and a notch? Also why a 29" tall tire? On 20's 27" tires are common i thought?

Thanks gringo

[gringoloco]

29" tire is what Nate quotes his components at. I prefer a little meat on mine 'cause the roads here are junk. I still don't think you could lay it on the ground without spindles and a big step notch. You can get very low with trailing arms and a smaller step and keep the back seat, but not on the ground.

[needforspeed502]

Yah thats true, some meat can def help. Yah im definitely doin spindles, a dropmember and most likely the kp 8" step-notch. I was just seeing with all that if i could keep the trailing arms, with a ece drop crossmember, and blocks and if it would still lay

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by needforspeed502

Hey guys after ready a bunch of stuff on the forums about the porterbuilt dropmember and some options for the rear i still have a few questions.
I thought i would try this in the suspension forum to see if i got more replies. This would be goin on a 2wd 72 blazer. Also if a 4wd frame would work ok, let me know what would need to be done.

First off, for the front suspension, with the porterbuilt dropmember are drop spindles still recommended? Also since the porterbuilt website is down, what all steering components are required, and is it simple to hook the new r&p up to any power steering pump(ie 5.3 ls motor)? One last front suspension question, which tubular a-arms work the best to help alleviate ball joint issues, or do they all do the same thing? Also i saw 3" drop a-arms???? from DJM i think, whats the deal with those? Oh yah this is all for 20" rims

Ok on the rear suspension, what is required to lay frame on 22's? Can the stock trailing arms do it with the ece trailing arm crossmember with a c-notch? Also how big of a c-notch? And on the kp 6 link kit, will that work on a 72 2wd blazer or no? Only says 73-. Any other options for the rear that i left out please fill me in on.

Thanks guys for whatever you can offer

Drop spindles may be necessary to get the truck as low as you would like... it all will depend on what control arms, bag, and of course overall tire diameter.

The site is back up again (somebody forgot to renew my domain name...) You will need a mustang rack and pinion from model years 1979 thru 1993 (it has a 15.5" center on the mouinting holes), you will also need the steering linkage: three u-joints (one on the column, one in the middle of the shaft, and one on the rack... Unisteer has the best price on these components), an idler bearing to support the steering shaft, and of course the shaft itself. On a power rack you will also need p/s lines... I have had the best luck ordering these through Borgeson. The GenIII power steering pump is valved for a rack and pinion so the pressure will be just right. The lines go in pretty easily... it is just important to make sure you have good communication when ordering the lines so you ensure they send you the proper fittings.

On the control arms... let me know your tire diameter and I will let you know if a tubular arm is necessary. With the Dropmember, the tube arms will allow the truck to set one inch lower... ball joint angles are not an issue with the Dropmember's suspension geometry. Forget about the drop arms... they're set up for a coil spring.

To lay frame out back I recommend switching from trailing arms to a four-link set-up. You can make the truck lay with the trailing arms, but it requires some extensive frame work. A four-link will be a better suited application. KP should have their kit done right after SEMA. Being that you own a blazer there is no kit that I am aware of that is a direct bolt-in or application specific kit... all kits will require mods to work with the blazer frame... it shouldn't be too difficult for an experienced fabricator. On the notch... it depends on your tire diameter. Pick what size tire you want to run, and I can make a recommendation on the notch size.

[needforspeed502]

Wow thanks for all your info. Ur dropmember is amazing. Actually thinking about it i think i would just go with 20's all around. And probably around a 27" tire i was thinking. Bags would more than likely be re-7's, what is ur opinion on the best arms?

On the rear i thought that with how big the kp notch is, that the stock trailing arms would work with some drop blocks on the trailing arms, plus the trailing arm dropmember from ece. Let me know what you think.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by needforspeed502

Wow thanks for all your info. Ur dropmember is amazing. Actually thinking about it i think i would just go with 20's all around. And probably around a 27" tire i was thinking. Bags would more than likely be re-7's, what is ur opinion on the best arms?

On the rear i thought that with how big the kp notch is, that the stock trailing arms would work with some drop blocks on the trailing arms, plus the trailing arm dropmember from ece. Let me know what you think.

The trailing arms will actually bottom out on the frame rails before the frame is allowed to contact the ground... it contacts in front of the factory coil spring mount.

[needforspeed502]

But wouldnt a large drop block help that? because it will put the axle higher (read truck lower) without the trailing arms moving up more

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by needforspeed502

But wouldnt a large drop block help that? because it will put the axle higher (read truck lower) without the trailing arms moving up more

A block will help, but there's a point where the block will look a little out-of-place if it's too tall. And the trailing arms will still keep the frame from touching the ground... not sure on the CPP arms.

[needforspeed502]

Ah ok, ic. Anyone have a bolt in 4 link thats any good for the 69-72 blazers?

[gringoloco]

This is exactly the set-up I am in the process of doing. I am cutting the notch down to about 6" so it will fit under the back seat. It will not lay out. The front will lay on the ground but the rear will not even be close.

You will not be able to use all of the notch with the bags in the stock location. You will need to move them off of the trailing arms. The next stopper will be the trailing arm/frame clearance where they cross under the frame. If I were trying to lay out and not keeping the back seat, I would do some sort of 4-link- probably the suicidedoors triangulated superlift.

Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes.

[gringoloco]

Man, this looks familiar...

Nate has basically restated everything from the other thread. Makes me feel like I know what I'm talkin' about

An easy way to calculate for your notch is to take 1/2 of your overall tire height + 1/2 your axle tube diameter. This will give you the overall height from the ground that your axle tube will be. Then take the difference of the height of the bottom of your frame rails under the cab to the bottom of the framerails over the axle.

i.e. 27" tire, 3" axle tube = 15" top of axle tube - 6" difference between cab/axle framerail height = 9" notch to lay frame out back. A button style bumpstop would keep you from dragging framerails. Trailing arms will not allow you to go that low. You will have to four link it or do a 'super' step or back-half. Back seat is also out the door...

If you're gonna do a dropmember and four link, you might as well start with a 4wd. The 2-wheelers are notoriously hard to find and usually more expensive. Also, if you're trying to lay, the trailing arms and crooked frame rails make life harder out back.

[Joe67]

Merged duplicate threads

[bagged74]

a 6.5" notch will get you about here:

I dont have my dropmember installed yet so no pics on that

there is more info in my build thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201680

[Painter D]

not to rob the thread , but how much is the dropmember?

[boonedogs72]

that blazer is going to be bad a$$ what is the info on the wheels?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 69chevyshort

not to rob the thread , but how much is the dropmember?

This should catch you up . . ......
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201898

The most recent price updates are pg.22 post #543 .

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by 69chevyshort

not to rob the thread , but how much is the dropmember?

$1425.00

[needforspeed502]

What has to be modified to use a dropmember on a 4wd chassis?

[RunninLo]

Originally Posted by needforspeed502

What has to be modified to use a dropmember on a 4wd chassis?

I'm about 99% positive that Nate makes a version of the DropMember specifically designed to convert the K5's into C5's as a true "bolt in" item in both regular and C4 flavors. Only welding is the steering notch.

Josh
^
can't say enough good about DropMember

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by RunninLo

I'm about 99% positive that Nate makes a version of the DropMember specifically designed to convert the K5's into C5's as a true "bolt in" item in both regular and C4 flavors. Only welding is the steering notch.

Josh
^
can't say enough good about DropMember

When I spoke with him earlier this month, he said around the 1st of the year...

[PBFAB.COM]

The regular Dropmember (going to start calling it the DropmemberC10) will go into the K (4WD) chassis. It doesn't quite fit "perfect enough" for me, so I will be developing one specific for the 4WD conversion. As mentioned, it will be closer to the first of the year before it's completed. I am currently looking for a 4WD chassis to prototype with. The differences between the 4WD and 2WD frames aren't too significant... but enough for me to make one specific for the conversion guys out there.

[needforspeed502]

Man that will be awesome. Cant wait for the 4wd version!