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Old 11-23-2007, 10:15 PM   #1
1966gmc
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Dynomax full length header help

I have a set of Dynomax full length headers pn 85003.I have read that they fit 64-9? chevy/gm trucks.They do not specify mt/at or just at.What exactly do I need to do to the bell crank to get them to fit? Just take it off and slip it thru the number 5 and 7 tubes?
Please help me out fellows.I may try to install them tomorrow while teh turkey is cooking
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Old 11-23-2007, 11:23 PM   #2
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Re: Dynomax full length header help

Anyone?
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Old 11-24-2007, 03:58 AM   #3
60ratrod
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Re: Dynomax full length header help

i'm assuming that you either did the v8 swap conversion or yours already had the v8 in it. well i would look to see what you might need to move and reconfigure. just keep in mind that you are going to have to keep anything that is meltable out of the way. i would also switch to some header shorty style spark plugs. they're designed to be shorter for going behind the headers. it sucks when you keep frying plug wires on the headers.
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:57 AM   #4
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Re: Dynomax full length header help

I had a set of heddman headers on my truck, and they cleared, but barely! On mine they grouped together in the center, went down, and then went into the collector towards the rear of the engine.

I just looked at those on summits website, it looks like you are going to have to play with the clutch linkage to make it work. Keep us updated please!

Last edited by PrerunnerRob; 11-24-2007 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 11-24-2007, 12:31 PM   #5
1966gmc
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Re: Dynomax full length header help

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Originally Posted by PrerunnerRob View Post
I just looked at those on summits website, it looks like you are going to have to play with the clutch linkage to make it work. Keep us updated please!
Thats what Im trying to figure out about the linkage.It looks like if I remove the bell crank and slip the header in,I may have enough room for the linkage to operate properly.But then again,the bell crank is far enough down on the block/frame,that looks like where the tubes of the headers come in together.I was goin to start on it today but I got up too late and it looks like it is goin to rain soon
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Old 12-03-2007, 12:31 AM   #6
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Re: Dynomax full length header help

I've not used those exact headers' but they look similar to those I have used. What you'll probably have to do is move the arm on the bellcrank that the rod from the pedal attaches to. It will need to be moved closer to the engine. Then of course the rod will have to be modified or a new one made to reach the arm in its new position. I can take a pic and post if that will help.
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Old 12-03-2007, 04:10 PM   #7
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Re: Dynomax full length header help

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Originally Posted by Captainfab View Post
I've not used those exact headers' but they look similar to those I have used. What you'll probably have to do is move the arm on the bellcrank that the rod from the pedal attaches to. It will need to be moved closer to the engine. Then of course the rod will have to be modified or a new one made to reach the arm in its new position. I can take a pic and post if that will help.
I appreciate the help but after 6 hours of pure hell I have the headers in.I took the bellcrank off and had a guy I know that welds,cut off the lower arm and weld it closer to the end of the bellcrank to give me clearance.Then I had to proceed to smash the living daylights out of cyl 1 primary to give me clearance for the adjuster on the rod.The passenger side was not so bad to do.Now my shifter linkages are somewhat out of whack because now it dont really want to go in to gear.I can go under the hood and fool with the linkages and it will shift.Thats not too big of a problem though because it was happening before.All in all I rate this mod a -10 on the install factor and a 9 on the noise level.It's worth all the hassle.
Thanks guys
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