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01-11-2003, 07:22 PM | #1 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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help with bumpstop removal
i got the leaf plate trimed and the shock extenders on, but now i'm having trouble getting the bump stops off!
i've grinded off all four heads that are facing toward the ground and i cant get the damn thing off! this is the only thing holding me back |
01-11-2003, 07:27 PM | #2 |
You get what you pay for
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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Eric,
use a hammer and punch to knock what's left of the rivet out. If you got the bottom head ground off smooth, it should pop right out.
__________________
Mike 1985 Chevy C-10 |
01-11-2003, 07:55 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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you can also get a big crow bar and put the tip in the space that is open between the plate and the frame, and put some grunt into it and it should pop off.
__________________
'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
01-11-2003, 10:39 PM | #4 |
STILL PLAYS WITH TRUX
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Melbourne, Fla.
Posts: 2,764
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Eric,
I had to use a 3x rivet gun to knock mine out and that's when my truck was brand new now your's is 15 + yr's old it may not be that easy but dont be afraid to beat the snot out of your truck yelling really loud cuss words as you hit it seam's to help |
01-12-2003, 01:30 AM | #5 |
Garage Queen Material
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 4,129
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okay, here is the deal.
i've grinded off the bottom rivets on the bump stop so that its all flush. i can barely see the outline of where the rivets are at to hit. i've tried with a hammer and hole punch and that didnt work. i tried with a hammer and chissel, that didnt work. i've tried prying it off, but that didnt work either. maybe tommorow i'll get something really long to pry it with and see if that works. |
01-12-2003, 03:14 AM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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i had to get really mad at mine. they are stubborn, but it will come off.
__________________
'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
01-12-2003, 03:23 AM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 1,615
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Could he heat the area with a blow torch to expand the metal surrounding the rivit, then punch it through?
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01-12-2003, 03:29 AM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 5,904
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not sure if that would also heat the rivets causing them to expand and make it harder.?
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01-12-2003, 03:43 AM | #9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 1,615
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Well at least the metal would be softer and more workable, I think?
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