My one-piece aluminum driveshaft (my friend thought we had it chromed..) - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Riles72 · 01-25-2003, 11:23 PM

here's some pics of my driveshaft. I just snapped the pics out in my garage with the digital camera, so the lighting isn't real good.

I'm sure you're all wondering about the chrome thing. After all, this is one-piece aluminum, so we got the Xtreme Metal Polish after it one day...we haven't polished it to the chrome polished finish yet, but my dad said something about getting the buffer out after it. How cool would that be to have people look under your truck at a Polished Driveshaft?! I think I might do it...any opinions?

Riley

Riles72 · 01-25-2003, 11:24 PM

here's another view

Stroker · 01-25-2003, 11:56 PM

An aluminum shaft is very trick, looks great. What is the diameter of the drive-shaft? I had been thinking about using one but figure I'de run into clearance problems where the drive-shaft passes thru the frame crossmember after dropping 4.5 / 6 ......Stroker

Riles72 · 01-26-2003, 12:00 AM

The diameter of the shaft is probably 3, 3.5, or 4"...I'm not for sure...it's around there though. One of the deacons at my church owns a welding service, so he modified the frame for us so all that would clear.

We got the shaft made at a driveshaft company named Blumenthal's in Oklahoma City. they took measurements from the tail of the tranny to the axle. If your truck is lowered, have one made to match everything up, and you shouldn't have a problem with clearance if it's the correct length...

Riley

Myride · 01-26-2003, 12:02 AM

nice

72shadetree · 01-26-2003, 12:50 AM

cool

Ackattack · 01-26-2003, 01:05 AM

I looked into getting a 1 piece made and decided not to. There is a formula that takes into acount the RPMs of the driveshaft, length, and diameter, and using like a 4" shaft...the safest speed would have been like 84 or so. I decided to stay with the 2 piece and not worry about not being able to go fast (not that I really speed, but I want to go to the track next spring, and hope to trap higher than that)

casey · 01-26-2003, 01:50 AM

Thats coool How strong are they? could you use one on a 4x4?

O'l Buck · 01-26-2003, 02:38 AM

I'm wondering about strenght myself. When I went to college back in 93, they had an alluminum driveshaft from a then late model chevy truck, it was pretty large in diameter, 4-5", and had a graphite or some material like it cover to protect from stones. My instructor said they had some issues with driveshaft bounce at high speeds and under heavy loads. I was thinking about getting an alluminum driveshaft for the old f#rd, but am unsure because it will be draggin' alot of wieght at times.

sgtjed · 01-26-2003, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Riles72
The diameter of the shaft is probably 3, 3.5, or 4"...I'm not for sure...it's around there though. One of the deacons at my church owns a welding service, so he modified the frame for us so all that would clear.

We got the shaft made at a driveshaft company named Blumenthal's in Oklahoma City. they took measurements from the tail of the tranny to the axle. If your truck is lowered, have one made to match everything up, and you shouldn't have a problem with clearance if it's the correct length...

Riley

hey ya fellow okie,if you dont mind how much they charge for the drive shaft over at blumethals?

71k5 · 01-26-2003, 11:00 AM

I don't live in OKC now, but Blumenthal's did some driveshaft work for me when I did, and it was top-notch! I would recommend them for any driveline work...

Nova_Cobra64 · 01-26-2003, 01:52 PM

A buffer will definately shine it up. I tried a few different polishes that we had kicking around on my hurst t handle and they didn't do a whole lot. I took it to school and used the buffer.....now it pretty much looks like chrome.

Hotrod70C10 · 01-26-2003, 04:53 PM

I like the driveshaft. Hey riles where in oklahoma do you live?

Riles72 · 01-26-2003, 06:27 PM

As far as strength, everyone we talked to, including the guy who machined and built my engine, recommended the one piece aluminum shaft, not only for carrier bearing problems, but also for performance. It's lighter than the original two-piece, so more horsepower is planted to the rear wheels a little more efficiently.

Sgtjed -
We got the shaft made almost 2 1/2 years ago and it was right at $167...They did it in one day...they also knew we were coming. We trailered the truck up there, dropped the trailer, ran some errands, came back, truck was gone....
Scared the crap out of us...we thought someone had hooked up to it and pulled it away...10 grand...gone...but, they'd moved it around back so that wouldn't happen...lol...they're considerate about stuff like that. I'd definitely recommend looking into it.

Hotrod70c10 -
I live in Chickasha, just down the road. I'm more than likely going to be hanging around the Chckasha swap meet if I can coming up here in the spring. If I'm there, I'll either be walking around or talkin to Kenny from Kenny's trucks. He's who we got all our parts and stuff from...great guy. There's a board member from Marrietta, Oklahoma that's going to come up to the meet I think.

Riley

01-25-2003, 11:23 PM	#1
Riles72 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Chickasha, Oklahoma Posts: 117	My one-piece aluminum driveshaft (my friend thought we had it chromed..) here's some pics of my driveshaft. I just snapped the pics out in my garage with the digital camera, so the lighting isn't real good. I'm sure you're all wondering about the chrome thing. After all, this is one-piece aluminum, so we got the Xtreme Metal Polish after it one day...we haven't polished it to the chrome polished finish yet, but my dad said something about getting the buffer out after it. How cool would that be to have people look under your truck at a Polished Driveshaft?! I think I might do it...any opinions? Riley Attached Images __________________ 72 Chevy short stepside 350/350 tilt, vintage air a/c sunset Orange Metallic paint Early Classic 2.5/4 drop eagle series 211 wheels

01-25-2003, 11:24 PM	#2
Riles72 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Chickasha, Oklahoma Posts: 117	here's another view Attached Images __________________ 72 Chevy short stepside 350/350 tilt, vintage air a/c sunset Orange Metallic paint Early Classic 2.5/4 drop eagle series 211 wheels

01-25-2003, 11:56 PM	#3
Stroker Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Moore, Ok Posts: 1,149	An aluminum shaft is very trick, looks great. What is the diameter of the drive-shaft? I had been thinking about using one but figure I'de run into clearance problems where the drive-shaft passes thru the frame crossmember after dropping 4.5 / 6 ......Stroker __________________ 72 SWB parts and pieces Oklahoma

01-26-2003, 12:00 AM	#4
Riles72 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Chickasha, Oklahoma Posts: 117	we actually had to modify that... The diameter of the shaft is probably 3, 3.5, or 4"...I'm not for sure...it's around there though. One of the deacons at my church owns a welding service, so he modified the frame for us so all that would clear. We got the shaft made at a driveshaft company named Blumenthal's in Oklahoma City. they took measurements from the tail of the tranny to the axle. If your truck is lowered, have one made to match everything up, and you shouldn't have a problem with clearance if it's the correct length... Riley __________________ 72 Chevy short stepside 350/350 tilt, vintage air a/c sunset Orange Metallic paint Early Classic 2.5/4 drop eagle series 211 wheels

01-26-2003, 12:50 AM	#6
72shadetree KEEP ON TRUCKING Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: martinsville va Posts: 2,563	cool __________________ 72 cheyenne 2wd lwb 71 k20 sons bassett va

01-26-2003, 12:02 AM	#5
Myride Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Pacific Northwest Posts: 292	nice

01-26-2003, 01:05 AM	#7
Ackattack Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Valley Center KS Posts: 3,525	I looked into getting a 1 piece made and decided not to. There is a formula that takes into acount the RPMs of the driveshaft, length, and diameter, and using like a 4" shaft...the safest speed would have been like 84 or so. I decided to stay with the 2 piece and not worry about not being able to go fast (not that I really speed, but I want to go to the track next spring, and hope to trap higher than that) __________________ Project Bruiser: 68 Pro-Touring C-10 5.3L / 4L60E Project Ironhide: 97 GMC Crew Cab 4x4 Cummins SOLD: '69 GMC 1/2T SWB TBI'd: Project No Buck Assembly Manual Index Sign up Thread!!! Factory Service Manual Index

01-26-2003, 01:50 AM	#8
casey Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada Posts: 2,048	Thats coool How strong are they? could you use one on a 4x4?

01-26-2003, 02:38 AM	#9
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	I'm wondering about strenght myself. When I went to college back in 93, they had an alluminum driveshaft from a then late model chevy truck, it was pretty large in diameter, 4-5", and had a graphite or some material like it cover to protect from stones. My instructor said they had some issues with driveshaft bounce at high speeds and under heavy loads. I was thinking about getting an alluminum driveshaft for the old f#rd, but am unsure because it will be draggin' alot of wieght at times. __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

01-26-2003, 11:00 AM	#11
71k5 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Manchester, PA Posts: 138	I don't live in OKC now, but Blumenthal's did some driveshaft work for me when I did, and it was top-notch! I would recommend them for any driveline work...

01-26-2003, 01:52 PM	#12
Nova_Cobra64 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Melville, SK Posts: 1,144	A buffer will definately shine it up. I tried a few different polishes that we had kicking around on my hurst t handle and they didn't do a whole lot. I took it to school and used the buffer.....now it pretty much looks like chrome. __________________ 2004 Silverado - Beater 1969 GMC - In progress http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=441683 2011 Aveo - Work commuter 2013 Crestliner Fish Hawk 1650 - The reason no work gets done on the project truck.

01-26-2003, 04:53 PM	#13
Hotrod70C10 Low & Slow Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 1,047	I like the driveshaft. Hey riles where in oklahoma do you live? __________________ 70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop

01-26-2003, 06:27 PM	#14
Riles72 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Chickasha, Oklahoma Posts: 117	As far as strength, everyone we talked to, including the guy who machined and built my engine, recommended the one piece aluminum shaft, not only for carrier bearing problems, but also for performance. It's lighter than the original two-piece, so more horsepower is planted to the rear wheels a little more efficiently. Sgtjed - We got the shaft made almost 2 1/2 years ago and it was right at $167...They did it in one day...they also knew we were coming. We trailered the truck up there, dropped the trailer, ran some errands, came back, truck was gone.... Scared the crap out of us...we thought someone had hooked up to it and pulled it away...10 grand...gone...but, they'd moved it around back so that wouldn't happen...lol...they're considerate about stuff like that. I'd definitely recommend looking into it. Hotrod70c10 - I live in Chickasha, just down the road. I'm more than likely going to be hanging around the Chckasha swap meet if I can coming up here in the spring. If I'm there, I'll either be walking around or talkin to Kenny from Kenny's trucks. He's who we got all our parts and stuff from...great guy. There's a board member from Marrietta, Oklahoma that's going to come up to the meet I think. Riley __________________ 72 Chevy short stepside 350/350 tilt, vintage air a/c sunset Orange Metallic paint Early Classic 2.5/4 drop eagle series 211 wheels



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