'64 Hydraulic Clutch Conversion?

[64Magoo]

What is involved in converting my clutch to a hydraulic setup in my '64 LWB? I have been messing with this zbar to get around my hooker longtubes for 2 days now and it isn't looking very good at this point.

[kevindtimm]

I haven't read all the details of your install, but rather than the juice clutch, I'd recommend rams horns. Unless you've got quite an engine, headers seem to be more of a pain than they're worth.

Just my $.02

[greg64]

64Magoo, I'm puzzling out the same thing for my 64 Burb. When I did this on my 77, there was lots of room on the firewall for a master clutch cylinder. Not so much on the 64, especially with the brake booster in the way. I had considered mounting the cylinder below the floor in line with the original clutch link rod, but as you're probably already aware, that won't work because the direction of activation is wrong.

The slave cylinder end is easy. There's two options, use a hydraulic throw-out bearing, or a slave cylinder that activates the original clutch arm. The throw-out bearing method would give you the most header clearance, but it's expensive and essentially non-adjustable. The slave cylinder is cheaper and easier (in some ways), but it may interfere with your headers. For this method, I like the look of: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_hcr3.htm Even if you come up with brackets and a cylinder yourself (as I did on my 77), this kit gives a good idea of the technique.

Anybody else on here have a working hydraulic clutch on a 64-66? If I was willing to keep my drum brakes, I was thinking about using the earlier dual master cylinder.

[Captainfab]

I didn't figure those Hookers would work with a manual trans. If you're determined to use a set of long tube headers IMHO a set of Hedmans would work with a manual trans. These are the ones I'd use http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...0+115&y=5&x=27

Another alternative would be to use a set made for the truck as billydonn and jchav62 have used. These are the ones for the '63-'66's http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

A couple of options if you still want to use the Hookers you have and convert to a hydraulic clutch are 1) find a factory setup off of a ~'85 and newer pickup 2) go with aftermarket parts something like this http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GmSear...itleDescr=True

This http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GmSear...itleDescr=True

Or this http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GmSear...itleDescr=True

[Rogue 64]

I'm running 2.5 ram horns, they flow as good a headers. IIRC

[baddawg65]

Check out a 1962, they had stock hydrolic clutches.

[courage 80]

i am running a hydraulic clutch for my t-56 tranny on my 65 chevy.

I also have headers on it (350), but I am unsure of the brand (my dad took them of his 76 chevy)

I put the cylinder under the floor (on a bracket that I made attached to the frame) and ran the original bell crank that activated the stock clutch. I shortened the arm and just have it push the plunger on the hyd. clutch cylinder. I mounted the reservoir above the cylinder just to the front of the access panel for the tranny, that way I can just pull the access panel to fill/check the fluid.

[billydonn]

You don't need to go hydraulic. Hedman 69260- $149 at Summit, fits perfectly. Highly recommended... I have used them for many years and they've been trouble free. You must remove the starter and z-bar to get them installed. They do not hang too low... or interfere with z-bar.

Hedman 69268 is the number for heavy duty ceramic version.

There is a thread with pictures on page 3.