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04-07-2001, 06:10 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada
Posts: 874
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Dual fuel tanks valve
Hi, I have a 77 C20 with saddle tanks. The only tank it will pull gas from is the passenger side one. I assume that the electric valve is stuck in pass. side position. If I clean up the valve and it still doesnt work.... can I just replace it with a piece of hose so that it just goes to one tank? I just don't want to pull the valve and then not be able to drive it if I break it or something. Also how do the senders work? Does it just switch between sender units when you push the switch?
eg. if its on passenger side tank and reads empty when you switch it to the drivers side tank will it read full? Never had a dual tank setup before. Thanks a lot. CoryM ------------------ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070/
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1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army |
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04-11-2001, 03:08 AM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,508
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That's basically how everything works. You will have no problems eliminating the valve. The sender also works the way you described. If this is a permanent fix, you should be able to wire the right sender directly
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98 GMC Sierra Ex Cab, cowl hood, Euro LED lights, 30 bar billet, Whipple Supercharged 350 Vortec: Forged flattops, E-Tec aluminum heads, Comp Cam, Scat crank and rods, Granatelli Mass air flow, Headers, Flowmaster exhaust , Complete MSD Ignition, Custom Tuning, intake spacer , ported throttle body, AC Delco port injection upgrade, Roller Rockers, Power Pulleys. Gear Vendors Overdrive. Soon to hit a dyno. 2/4 drop(for now). 95 Chevy S-10 Ex Cab 4.3 5 Speed 2/3 drop, Euro lights, billet grill, More to come. The Daily Driver |
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04-11-2001, 10:43 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada
Posts: 874
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Thanks for the help Z16. I am gonna play with it on the weekend. Happy Trucking. CoryM
------------------ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070/
__________________
1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army |
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04-12-2001, 12:10 PM
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#4 |
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BAD BOW-Silverado XST
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Senior Member from Austin, TX
Posts: 6,431
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CoryM,
I had a similiar problem. Mine went away after replacing the tank selector switch. Check the connection on the tank selector valve. Sometimes moister can cause the connections to rust. If you want to keep the dual tanks try changing the selector switch. They are really cheap. <$12.00. With the ignition switch on, depress the tanke selector valve and check to see if you can hear the valve try to change over. If it does not then check the wiring and connection on the valve. If you hear it try to switch go ahead and replace the switch in the cab. It may be not getting enough current. If you are going to remove and move the fuel lines be sure to move both the supply and return lines for each tank. Or you could end up using one tank and filling the other. Best option would be to completely removed the unused tank. Saves weights, no fumes or rust buildup and less mechanical stuff to worry about. I would keep the dual tank selection. I like it because I don't have to fill up for almost three weeks with both tanks full. A cruising range of 500+ miles is also a plus. ------------------ Gerardo 1983 Custom Truck TX Plates: "BAD BOW" http://www.geocities.com/abetterchemist/ |
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Linear Mode
