Can The Front Clip Be Unbolted From The Cab In One Piece?...

[terd ferguson]

I'm picking up a cab and front clip in a couple of days. They are currently together, like if you took the cab and front clip off the frame together as one piece. I don't have a trailer, so I'll have to do it in two trips.

So, can the front clip be taken off the cab as one piece? If so, what's the easiest way to seperate the front clip from the cab? How heavy will the front clip be as one piece (minus the hood, it's already off)? How heavy will the cab be with doors and glass? In other words, how many people will I need to put each piece in the bed of my truck for transport?

Thanks in advance for the help and thanks for this great forum.

[Mullet '72]

This linky should help~
http;//67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=194094
The clip should be 200 to 250 lbs without the hood.
25+/Fender
10+/Inner Fender
90+/Rad. Support
30+/Bumper
Three of us farm boys could handle easily onto a trailer -
buuuuut.... easing it into a p/u bed would take a fourth to
guide and handle safely. jmho
We have used a piece of barstock to tie the fenders together
at the front hood hinge eyelet, and it helped avoid over-flexing
( of the rad. support and my man-cans )
For the cab, measure floor for holes from seatbelts or frame mounts
for drilling, and use a 6' metal plate to act as handles from front to back.
Without drilling - a strap from behind the cab through the DS window & PS
window & back to the plate would hold for a quick lift and set.
Wood would be less $$$ though. Best of luck 2 U !!!

Have a Safe and Happy 4th

[Wrecker55]

3-4 on the cab 4 sure, 2 can handle the dog house

[hewlett2002000]

definatly 4 with the doors still on the cab. 2 can handle the front clip just fine.

[terd ferguson]

Thanks guys. Especially Mullet for the link. I'm going to get the front clip in the morning. I'll go back for the cab in a few days when I can get some more help.

And just for the record, the cab should fit in my '63 fleetside longbed if turned sideways, right?




Also, I'm pretty excited about all this. I'm getting the cab and front clip including the hood for a really good deal. There should be a lot of usable parts I need. I know there's 1 good door (all good glass and internals), 1 repairable door (good glass etc.), 1 good fender (no holes), 1 good repairable fender (usual holes at the bottom), excellent windshield (mine's cracked), vin plate, excellent dash with all knobs and gauges, steering wheel and column, etc.. There's also two Unity spotlights mounted on the roof. It's basically complete minus headlights, I'm buying it for the doors, windshield, and fenders.

I may end up using the cab too. It's got a big dent on top, but I could swap my roof and big back window onto it. Or I'd have to cut out the section above the windshield of the new cab and graft it onto my cab (along with swapping windshields). I'll have to wait and see how good this new cab is before I make any decisions. I've already looked it over, just not gone over it with a fine tooth comb.

[terd ferguson]

Ok, I got the front clip today. It has one good fender I can use without any work other than stripping and priming. The other is repairable, but no better than mine. Everything else in the front clip is good, but I don't need it. The doors ended up being no better than mine, but still repairable with good glass and internals. I'm going back to get the cab in a couple of days. The windshield in the cab is perfect, so that's great for me. I'll have to cut out part of the roof to repair mine and then likely scrap the rest of the cab. I don't feel so bad about cutting and scrapping the cab cause it's got a big dent in the roof and the usual holes in the floor. The dash is decent, but I'm not sure what it'll take to get it out.

So, It was worth my time and money for the windshield, roof repair piece, and good usable as is fender. Everything else (and there's a lot of good stuff to sell) I'll use to recoup my money and profit for more needed parts.

Any tips to get the dash out? I understand it's spot welded at the corners?


***EDITED TO ADD***
I'm going to pony up for a paid membership in the next day or so. So be on the lookout for a For Sale thread soon with a lot of good parts including stuff that's not repop'ed.

[ol Curt]

Not sure why. but the link doesn't work for me. Am I the only one?

[terd ferguson]

Originally Posted by ol Curt

Not sure why. but the link doesn't work for me. Am I the only one?

No, you're not the only one. But I figured it out. It got abbreviated with "..." instead of "showthread" when he pasted it. Here's the correct link...

http;//67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=194094

It was really helpful too by the way.

[Mykul]

Thanks, you saved me a question.

[LILRED66]

Congrats on the score. The dash is removed by removing the windshield and rubber, following by removing three 1/2" hex head bolts on each side, that secure the dash to the "A" pillar. Then you must drill out several spot-welds along the lip joint where the dash and windshield bottom opening meet. I suggest using a spot-weld cutter from the outside, in order to avoid drilling through both the cab lip and dash lip. This makes it easier weld and clean up the welds when installing the dash in another cab.

Three guys and I transferred a cab shell from one trailer to another last weekend, without much grunting or any strained backs. As you discovered, the entire front dog house can removed and transported in one piece by removing the bolts at the inner fender-to-firewall, the front fender tail-to-cab and the radiatior support-to-frame rail, along with any wiring & plumbing connecting the front sheetmetal to the engine or frame. It will stay together much better if you leave the hood on it and latched.

Keep us posted on your progress.