Quick A arm question

[Jack_71C10]

My upper A arm is worn and clunks when I hit bumps.
Do I need to replace with a complete upper A arm, or
can I just replace the A arm shaft.
Basically, what usually wears in this situation.

[SCOTI]

Are the arms original to the truck or is there a possibility they were replaced w/some 73-87 arms?

The bushings for a 71 upper arm are rubber lined steel. The don't usually wear to the point of 'clunking' but it's possible. Are the alignment shims tight on the upper a-arm shaft where it attaches to the crossmember/frame? If some shims fell out, it would definitely cause some shifting of parts & give an audible 'clunk' when doing so.

[Jack_71C10]

I can push & pull on the A arm and see it move while the shaft stays solid.

[Tx Firefighter]

Bad bushings then. They are available through all typical parts stores.

[Jack_71C10]

Thats sortof what I thought. But when I looked at the lmc catalog
they only show a seal and a end nut, no bushing.

[Tx Firefighter]

That big nut on the end is the bushing itself. You have the screw in bushing and the little rubber seal. That's it.

LMC is going to overcharge you for this kind of stuff though. Local parts stores are cheaper for good quality stuff. LMC just resells stuff that they buy.

[Jack_71C10]

Thanks for clearing that up for me TX.
Thats what I was unsure of.
was going to buy locally, just using lmc as a guide.

[lowdownstar]

I have an upper set of A arms if you need them. Free just pay shipping and there yours.

Ray

[DHPmike]

You are better swapping them with the later arms that have rubber bushings. The length is the same and so is the bolt pattern for the balljoints. You can also but the replacement shaft and bushings at many chain auto parts stores

[Shane]

Why are the later with rubber bushings "better" ?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Shane

Why are the later with rubber bushings "better" ?

'Better' would be a subjective term.

The later bushings are more readily available & offer more 'cushion' for the high quality roads that 'daily drivers' seem to face everywhere. The earlier bushings would be 'better' from a performance/non-deflecting stand-point.

[DHPmike]

yes for an every day driver the rubber is better. if you want to feel every little pebble in the road the original bushings are better.

[Shane]

I'm thinking the tires have a lot more to do with feeling every little pebble in the road than the a-arm bushings ...

I only asked because I have used both and to be completely honest I cannot tell the difference sitting behind the steering wheel. I thought there was some fact-based reason for using the rubber over the solid bushing type, but apparently it's personal preference.

[DHPmike]

vibration, a small amount but still vibration, just like the engine mounts and rubber in the steering column. Tires may have more to do with it but every place metal touches metal theres vibration transferred.

The ultimate would be tube arms with poly bushings but it all depends on funds and prefrence.

[XXL]

And one of those donut pillows to sit on.

[dznucks]

That big nut on the end is the bushing itself. You have the screw in bushing and the little rubber seal. That's it.

where does the control arm bushing fit in, then?
i have never rebuilt a control arm but am about to.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dznucks

where does the control arm bushing fit in, then?
i have never rebuilt a control arm but am about to.

The 'bushing' is a metal sleeve w/rubber lining the outer portion on the 6X-72's. The 73 & later arms have an actual rubber bushing in a steel shell.

[Tx Firefighter]

To add to Scoti's response.

The control arm has a huge threaded hole in it. The bushing is the steel cap, which has threads on the outside of it. You screw the steel bushing into the threaded hole in the arms. Frankly, it's a real *****. In the past few years, I have started to run 73-87 arms simply because it's dead easy to press new bushings in place. Plus, I can get a full set of Energy Suspension control arm bushings for 73-87 arms for 60 bucks. The older arms with the steel bushings cost way more than that to get buy good bushings.

[chevy_mike]

BTW, the upper bushing nut is a 1 3/16" and the lower nut is a 1 5/16".

I ended up taking my arms to a buddy's shop and used their 3/4" drive impact to get them off. I got to do it for free instead of buying $100 worth of sockets and an adapter to my 1/2" drive impact.

[dznucks]

so maybe i should find some 73-87 A arms. do they bolt right up? just different bushings.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dznucks

so maybe i should find some 73-87 A arms. do they bolt right up? just different bushings.

That's correct. They're a direct swap but use different bushing material.

[pritch]

I'm in the middle of this very thing right now. I was going to re-use all my old stuff, but I didn't like the way they were going on so I ordered new shafts and bushings.

A couple more questions-As the bushings thread into the arms, should the shoulder of the bushing/nut thread in all the way until it makes contact with the arm? Seems like I can get either the front or rear to touch, but not both.

And how-which way-do the seals go? They are different, top and bottom of course, but which is the inside face? Any pictures of properly installed seals?