Paint job opinions!

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by kizer

Personally not to be rude, but there are to many colors. Almost reminds me of an american flag with stripes.

I'd either paint the wheels to match the lower section of the truck or paint the truck something a little different.

Thats just my opinion and please do not be offended by it. My truck is in 100 pieces and I hope its at least 1/2 as nice as that picture.

No offense take at all. The spark behind this paint job was that I saw it on old Bel-Air one day and I thought it looked classy and kind of old school which is what I like. I figured I would throw it in photoshop and see what came out. Not everyone's cup of tea which is ok as long as it doesn't leave them gagging lol

Originally Posted by jason65

Or mabey white seal coat then red base coat. Then clear coat with red pearl in it. A lot of pearl in it. Then some trim from one of those 60-66 costom surburbans. Like what was on the board a couple months back. The Impala like trim. Scuff up the white top and reclear it with some white pearl or mabey silver pearl. Chrome smoothies. Big fat white walls. Drop it about 4" to 5". Then Shlongbed the chet out of it.

Just an idea....

Thanks for that input and that would totally rock I think! Unfortunately this paint job is going to get done on the Rustoleum cheap for one I cant afford more, two I have always wanted to do that so here is my chance! and last, the body has some issues which I will try to repair myself as I am learning however I make no illusions that it will never be worth spending thousands of dollars of paint ont it

Originally Posted by gostranger

i think it looks good a little different than everybody else that is nice!!!!

Thanks for the +1

Originally Posted by fercho71

I agree

Thanks Fercho!

Originally Posted by markeb01

I know I'm showing my age, but back in the day painted reversed rims were all we could afford a looked great, especially with 1963 Chevy dog dish hubcaps. Most popular were black rims, white rims, or black or body color centers with silver rims. Any of these would look as distinctive as the paint since nobody does it anymore.

Since I dig old school would you mind expanding on that a little more? what color would you paint the rims? Thanks!

[Eagar1]

I like it, but you might try only painting the top of the roof white, then paint the upper door and surrounding cab red as well. That will make it look shorter, painting the it the way you show will make it look longer, but thats not always a bad thing either. I would shave the emblems, Gas cap and maybe even the door handles. then use the offseting accent color for the lettering in the tail gate and grill. Roll pan the rear, reverse painted rims with baby moons for sure.

[markeb01]

Since I dig old school would you mind expanding on that a little more? what color would you paint the rims? Thanks![/QUOTE]

To answer the last question first, I would paint the wheels the color of the top (white or cream) since it ties them together and gives the "appearance" of being stock. Unfortunately plain stock white wheels just make it look like another old truck with no character. That's why I suggested the reversed rim/Chevy hubcap combination. At first glance it seems stock, but looks different/better and people that pay attention to details ask questions about things like this. As common as this was in the 60's virtually nobody does it anymore.

At the risk of providing way too much information, I'll attach a few pictures to explain. Dealing only with 15" and 16" rims before disc brakes came along, virtually all steel rims (the hoop part the tire mounts on) had a front and a back. The front was formed like a cylinder and looked similar to a current disc brake wheel. The back of the rim always had a taper to it, more like a funnel than a cylinder. To reverse an old school wheel either the rivets were drilled out or the welds cut off holding the two pieces together (the rim and the center), and the center was turned around backwards (reversed) and welded back into the rim. This made the wheel appear deep as opposed to flat. This was very common in the early 60's, and low budget versions left the valve stem in the original position which required a trip under the car to fill the tire.

As this became more popular it was discovered that Buick and Mercury rims were wider (up to 6.5") and when these rims were reversed with Chevy or Ford centers, the rims looked really deep. Later on Buick or Merc rims would be cut down the center on a lathe, and two back halves would be welded together for the ultimate deep rim known as a barrel rim.

The reason I suggested 63 Chevy passenger car hubcaps is because they are attractive with vanes stamped in, and taper inward like a cone. When installed on a reversed rim with a funnel shape tapering outward, the result is unique and complimentary. More options are available as virtually all Ford and Chevy passenger car hubcaps will interchange from 1954 up until the mid 70s as long as they have hup cap bumps on the center (not the clip models). Some wheels have 3 bumps, some have 4 but the standard 10"-10 1/8" hupcaps will fit, including the 1/2 ton pickup hubcaps.

Once 13" and 14" wheels came along, the back of the rim no longer tapered, they were all cylinder shaped like the front, so reversing the rim made it deeper, but not as pretty as the early rims. When disc brake wheels became the standard, the tapered rims faded away, and unless they are reversed, most won't fit disc brake applications because the tapered part of the rim hits the caliper.

From a style standpoint, the early tapered rims were also more attractive for both reversing and chroming, since they did not have safety beads formed into the rim. Although these are safer if the tire goes flat, the groove shows on the other side and is usually the first place to get rusty on a chrome wheel.

When you buy nostalgia chrome wheels now, they can be had standard or reversed, and with multiple offsets. Whether these are standard or reversed really doesn't change the appearance much other than how far back the center is mounted since the shape of both sides is the same. Here's a few pics to explain:

First is the back of a stock truck wheel showing the tapered rim:

Next is an old chrome wheel that has been reversed:

Next is a late model chrome wheel that may be called a reversed rim, but it really isn't it's just offset to the rear. You can see there is no taper, and the safety bead disrupts the flow of the wheel:
URL=http://img23.imageshack.us/i/chromewheel.jpg/][/URL]
Next is the back of a Buick wheel, showing how deep the tapered portion:
URL=http://img89.imageshack.us/i/buickbackside.jpg/][/URL]
Finally is a stock Buick wheel, also known as the poor mans reversed rim. Back in the day if you had a Pontiac or Olds rear end in your hot rod, this was the wheel to have as the center itself is dished and pushes the tires outboard a couple of inches compared to a stock flat wheel. When these were reversed they were exceptionally deep and could really only be used on a mid 50's Buick or stuck out past the fenders on anything else:

Hope this helps.

[1962k20]

I plan on painting my 62 roof 1999 chevy metallic platnium as well as the grill, bumpers and interior, the rest of the truck, under the window line will be 1999 chevy brite blue metallic. I want a two tone but loose the white roof every body paints the roof white, just my $.02

[protrash64]

I like your rendering; reminds me of some of the high tech street rod monochromatic paint jobs with a twist to stock/nostalgia/traditional. Lot of good suggestions here, too. Mite try doing up some of these ideas in the photochop section and see what they all look like.

Cool info on the wheels markeb01....I remember my Dad telling me about reversing rims in the late 50's and early 60's.

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by Eagar1

I like it, but you might try only painting the top of the roof white, then paint the upper door and surrounding cab red as well. That will make it look shorter, painting the it the way you show will make it look longer, but thats not always a bad thing either. I would shave the emblems, Gas cap and maybe even the door handles. then use the offseting accent color for the lettering in the tail gate and grill. Roll pan the rear, reverse painted rims with baby moons for sure.

Ok here is "bad" rendition of the top only painted white, I think that might make it look too much like a pancake, especially if end up not shaving the drip rails. I don't mind the schlong look I definitely agree on shaving the gas cap that is going in the rear!



Ok the roll pan, I have thought about that seriously but how does it look with a chrome front bumper and no rear bumper? would that give it an offbalance look?

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by markeb01

To answer the last question first, I would paint the wheels the color of the top (white or cream) since it ties them together and gives the "appearance" of being stock...

Thanks for all that info! I dig old school unfortunately I have no personal experience with it so I enjoy learning about it.

I think I understand what you are explaining, and I think reversing it would be really awesome looking, but that would be a project for later when I have more money because my welding skills unfortunately are not good enough for me to tackle welding rims.

The paint choice would definitely have to be the cream color of the top to tie it all together.

Thanks for all the input and help. I am trying to find something that is classy, old school but also within my budget. for example I checked out wheel vintiques (sp) they want like $450/ rim!!

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by protrash64

I like your rendering; reminds me of some of the high tech street rod monochromatic paint jobs with a twist to stock/nostalgia/traditional. Lot of good suggestions here, too. Mite try doing up some of these ideas in the photochop section and see what they all look like.

Cool info on the wheels markeb01....I remember my Dad telling me about reversing rims in the late 50's and early 60's.

Thanks protrash!

There definitely has been some great advice and insight here, more then I was expecting! which is awesome!

Instead of the chrome moulding along the side, I have really thought about the suggestion of doing it as a painted stripe similar in shape, it would allow me to continue it on further then the moulding and really separate the two paint colors. I am far away from doing paint but it is important because I am working on the bed sides and if I go this route I will weld shut the mounting holes for the moulding.

[Eagar1]

Not bad rendering with the white top, eh, I think it looks ok, but you may be right. I may do something similiar with my 63, but I was gonna do more of a rat rod meets harley davidson theme with a more satin black lower half, no side trim, orange stripe on the lower curve of the hood where it meets the fenders runnning the length of the truck all the way back, then light gray or silver up from there on hood, cab and bed. I will have to see if I can Photo Shop it.

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by Eagar1

Not bad rendering with the white top, eh, I think it looks ok, but you may be right. I may do something similiar with my 63, but I was gonna do more of a rat rod meets harley davidson theme with a more satin black lower half, no side trim, orange stripe on the lower curve of the hood where it meets the fenders runnning the length of the truck all the way back, then light gray or silver up from there on hood, cab and bed. I will have to see if I can Photo Shop it.

Thanks! Definitely share the photoshop with us!

[Eagar1]

Oh and the roll pan is a matter of personal opinion also, here are some pics I pulled off the cardomain site.

[1964C10]

I know everyone is going with either a rollpan or a chrome bumper. What about the old farmer's bumper? Mine came like that although I have no idea if that was stock or not. They seem useful. Anyon ever seen one done tastefully?

[markeb01]

Mine came with an original dealer installed Barden bumper:
URL=http://img220.imageshack.us/i/12345zbe.jpg/][/URL]

It was one of the more tasteful(???) designs I've seen, and was really practical if you want to use the truck as a truck. The downside was it bolted to the rear fenders. All it would take is a bump to waste the back fenders. I thought about trimming and keeping it, but at the time I wanted a street rod. If the one you have isn't outright ugly, it might look good if painted body color, chromed, or had some enthusiasm applied.

[1964C10]

wow I did not know the stepside bolted to the fender. Mine bolts to the frame rails. Its in good condition aside from the paint. I am planning on using mine as a truck.

Btw your truck seems to be in really good shape, nice truck!

[ClassicAutoResto]

Personally I think the white top looks better. Adds enough extra red to compliment the width of the black at the bottom. The 1st one just looks like a wide red stripe too IMO. My 2 cents.....Jerry

[Eagar1]

Gah!

I can't seem to find a good free or trial version of Photoshop so I can show you my Harley theme Idea, but here is a truck that is close, now imagine the hood and upper door and bed light grey with an Orange stripe at the body seperation line.......

[shrunken66stroker]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

wow I did not know the stepside bolted to the fender. Mine bolts to the frame rails. Its in good condition aside from the paint. I am planning on using mine as a truck.

Btw your truck seems to be in really good shape, nice truck!

That bumper is fine if you you're going to use it and don't mind an extra 50-60 lbs. on the back of your truck. My 66 came with one from the dealer identical to the one above. I have it behind my garage and every time I move it I almost throw my back out. It might truthfully be more like 60-70 lbs.