Need help quick please, axle U-bolts

[bigblock73]

Ordered a WC flip kit a while back, just now getting around to putting it in my '77 C10 w/12 bolt. The U-bolts included in the kit are incorrect (will be contacting them), and are too big. I am having a VERY difficult time finding correct U-bolts locally...for a reasonable price.

Can someone please help me verify I have the correct size for starters?

I am coming up with a 5/8" thread diameter, 3" axle diameter, and approx 8" long. I am 99% sure this is accurate, vut would like confirmation from the experts here.

The only place that carries anything close is NAPA, but they are $23 each!! All other U-bolts are in the $7-10 range. I refuse to spend $100 on u-bolts. I will contact WC, but need to get something quickly so I can finish.

Any help would be appreciated.

[joe231]

Auto-Zone has lowering/lifting block kits that come with U-bolts...$30 for the whole kit

LINKY

do you have a drive-train shop around, they can typically make them for you for a reasonable price

[Wild83C10]

The thread diameter and axle tube diameter is correct, not sure about the length though.

Can I make another suggestion. The best flip kit is to weld in new perches. You can get the correct pinion angle and it's much safer. It's also cheaper.

[joe231]

and then you can reuse your stock u-bolts, correct?

[bigblock73]

Originally Posted by joe231

and then you can reuse your stock u-bolts, correct?

I was always told to never re-use u-bolts. Besides, these bolts will be geting cut out...because the nuts are fighting me every thread of the way.

[joe231]

gotcha

I assume you are familiar with PB Blaster?

[Wild83C10]

I've never heard of not re-using u-bolts or bolts in general unless they have been torqued beyond the yield strength.
Of course you have to use common sense. If the bolts are rusty and it's fighting you then I wouldn't re-use them.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bigblock73

I was always told to never re-use u-bolts. Besides, these bolts will be geting cut out...because the nuts are fighting me every thread of the way.

FWIW..... I re-used my originals when I did my flip kit.

[jeffspower]

Most big rig spring shops can make any size you need. The shop I use makes them while you wait. I was in & out in 10 minutes Monday. $46 for four w/ nuts & washers.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Wild83C10

.... The best flip kit is to weld in new perches. You can get the correct pinion angle and it's much safer. It's also cheaper.

What do you do about the offset hole fr the spring center bolt?

[bigblock73]

Originally Posted by Wild83C10

The thread diameter and axle tube diameter is correct, not sure about the length though.

Can I make another suggestion. The best flip kit is to weld in new perches. You can get the correct pinion angle and it's much safer. It's also cheaper.

I already have the flip kit, so I am going to use it. Are you saying the flip kits on the market are not safe (and all the trucks running them), and make the pinion angle incorrect? I hope not. This is going on my 6 cyl truck, not the BB truck if that matters.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bigblock73

I already have the flip kit, so I am going to use it. Are you saying the flip kits on the market are not safe (and all the trucks running them), and make the pinion angle incorrect? I hope not. This is going on my 6 cyl truck, not the BB truck if that matters.

Hhmmm.... a manufactured/engineered bolt-on flip kit vs. a spring perch that's been welded on by who? I'll take the flip-kit & not worry about it. As N2Trux mentioned, the other benefit of a flip-kit is the slight relocation of the rear axle C/L to help center the wheel in the well.

[Wild83C10]

I'm not saying they are unsafe, but the potential is there. My rearend twisted (behind a decent amount of torque) and ripped my original perches in half. My pinion was shotting almost straight up and my driveshaft was damaged. Luckly it didn't pull the yoke out of the tranny.
I certainly wouldn't be too concerned about a V-6 though.

[Wild83C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Hhmmm.... a manufactured/engineered bolt-on flip kit vs. a spring perch that's been welded on by who? I'll take the flip-kit & not worry about it. As N2Trux mentioned, the other benefit of a flip-kit is the slight relocation of the rear axle C/L to help center the wheel in the well.

Your going to tell me every flip kit out there is manufactured/engineered properly? I have seen some pretty poorly built flip kits out there. And if someone is dumb enough to have the perches welded on by a novice then they shouldn't be modifying anything on their truck. I would just hope they don't hurt anyone else when something goes wrong.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Wild83C10

My rearend twisted (behind a decent amount of torque) and ripped my original perches in half..... Your going to tell me every flip kit out there is manufactured/engineered properly? I have seen some pretty poorly built flip kits out there. And if someone is dumb enough to have the perches welded on by a novice then they shouldn't be modifying anything on their truck. I would just hope they don't hurt anyone else when something goes wrong.

We're speaking of manufactured parts right & not home built? I wouldn't buy a cheap flip-kit just like I wouldn't trust just anyone welding new spring perches to a housing tube. And you can rip OE or 'retro-fit' perches off when they're not welded correctly.

[bigblock73]

Thanks for the info fellas.

Now who wants to come over and help me get the passenger side front leaf spring bolt out...I think it is siezed to the bushing sleeve...cause it aint movin! The others came out pretty easy. Might have to cut the bolt and install a new bushing.

[N2TRUX]

Wild83C10- Here's the reason Scoti is posting in a defensive manner. You throw a casual suggestion out about "The best flip kit is to weld in new perches" with out offering any further detail. We know that most of the guys that post on here know that they should be welded be a competent welder. We also know that to do it this way, you need to set the pinion angle, as well as address the center bolt issue. Unfortunately there are those that just read this forum that might not know all of this VERY pertinent information.

I agree that a few dollars can be saved by purchasing a cheap set of spring perches and welding them on. I also know that if you don't set the pinion angle correctly you will have the potential for driveline vibration. Combine that with the fact that you still haven't addressed the center pin issue, and suddenly the $60-$80 manufactured flip kit starts looking like a better value.

So my point is, if you want to offer the weld in spring perch as a viable alternative to a manufactured flip kit, please offer a disclaimer to go with it. Or better yet, write up a nice "How To" with pics so we can add it to our forth coming Suspension FAQ....

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bigblock73

Thanks for the info fellas.

Now who wants to come over and help me get the passenger side front leaf spring bolt out...I think it is siezed to the bushing sleeve...cause it aint movin! The others came out pretty easy. Might have to cut the bolt and install a new bushing.

I had to pull my leaves w/the hangers & use a press to get one out! Even then, it was a PITA.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Wild83C10- Here's the reason Scoti is posting in a defensive manner.

My apologies to Wild83C10 if I came across as defensive.

[bigblock73]

Well, we ended up cutting the front right bolt out...then barely snaked the leaf spring assembly out.

New development...

The front left spring eye was broke in half, it literally fell right out once the bolt was removed...not good. This could be that mysterious clunk I have been hearing off/on for a while now and was never able to locate.

New leaf springs will be picked up tonight, with new bushings...and will go back in with new hardware. The next owner may appreciate this one day...LoL!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bigblock73

Well, we ended up cutting the front right bolt out...then barely snaked the leaf spring assembly out.

New development...

The front left spring eye was broke in half, it literally fell right out once the bolt was removed...not good. This could be that mysterious clunk I have been hearing off/on for a while now and was never able to locate.

New leaf springs will be picked up tonight, with new bushings...and will go back in with new hardware. The next owner may appreciate this one day...LoL!

They definitely will if you install the stuff w/anti-seize!

[Wild83C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

My apologies to Wild83C10 if I came across as defensive.

No apology needed. Just don't let it happen again


Yes, I was referring to a quality manufactured flip kit. I purchased it from one of the more reputable suspension warehouses some 12 years ago or so.

[Wild83C10]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Wild83C10- Here's the reason Scoti is posting in a defensive manner.

I didn't take SCOTI's response as defensive. I know you are an adminstrator and all but do you think you should be answering for other members? I know you and scoti are friends, but it's still not right. I certainly don't want you answering for me.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

You throw a casual suggestion out about "The best flip kit is to weld in new perches" with out offering any further detail. We know that most of the guys that post on here know that they should be welded be a competent welder. We also know that to do it this way, you need to set the pinion angle, as well as address the center bolt issue. Unfortunately there are those that just read this forum that might not know all of this VERY pertinent information.

I agree that a few dollars can be saved by purchasing a cheap set of spring perches and welding them on. I also know that if you don't set the pinion angle correctly you will have the potential for driveline vibration. Combine that with the fact that you still haven't addressed the center pin issue, and suddenly the $60-$80 manufactured flip kit starts looking like a better value.

So my point is, if you want to offer the weld in spring perch as a viable alternative to a manufactured flip kit, please offer a disclaimer to go with it. Or better yet, write up a nice "How To" with pics so we can add it to our forth coming Suspension FAQ....

So are you going to tell me that everyone making a suggestion has to post every bit of information about it? Along with a disclaimer? I have seen plenty of members post suggestions and not provide all the details. I don't see you telling them what and how to post.

Maybe you should put a disclaimer at the top of the tech sections, stating that the information contained in these post should be verified first.

To answer one question:
I don't recall how I addressed the center pin issue, as this was done years ago. I was mearly making a suggestion and if he wanted more info then we could workout the details.

[N2TRUX]

What I suggested to you was pretty clear. If your going to throw that out there as a viable alternative, at least give a more in depth response.

For that method to be a safe and effective solution it requires a bit more than just welding on a spring saddle.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

They definitely will if you install the stuff w/anti-seize!

That's one of the best tips I've seen on here lately.

I use anti-seize all the time. Coat the inside of the leaf spring bushing and a little on the bolt and it will be good forever.

[joe231]

Anti-seize is my best friend