6.2/6.5 into a 4wd?

[JohnyWard]

DOes anyone have any experience with this swap? I have seen some good 2wd conversion threads but no 4wd.

[bouncytruck]

I guess I don't understand the question. What is a 6.2/6.5?

[JohnyWard]

Sorry about that, 6.2/6.5 GM diesel motors.

[vtblazer]

L-O-N-G thread about it here:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238207

[Critter]

Originally Posted by vtblazer

L-O-N-G thread about it here:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238207

That's a Cummins 5.9 not a GM 6.2/6.5...at least give him OUR link.

Cummins Burb

Some other guys mentioned your Duramax swap here on the truck forum. Maybe you should PM the guy and y'all take on the challenge together online. The white truck shown in that thread is a 2wd show truck that is done VERY nicely. It's floating around here and elsewhere.

[JohnyWard]

Thanks for the posts, I did find several cummins swap threads and it was quite comprehensive and had some very good stuff in them. But as it was pointed out, it wasn't really the swap I am gearing up for. I also found several threads on theses motors into 2wd trucks but they are much different from a 4wd ie the crossmember is larger, structural etc.

I heard that these motors might clear with BBC mounts. Can anyone tell me the difference in between the 2? I was under the impression that the SBC and BBC mounts were the same for the first gen blazers.

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by Critter

That's a Cummins 5.9 not a GM 6.2/6.5...at least give him OUR link.

Cummins Burb

Oh geeeze...


Like a kid in school when you raise your hand 'fast' thinking you got the right answer even before you fully comprehend the question.

Sorry, was trying to send ya in the right direction.

[Dusty71blazer]

I know '80's burbs & military blazers had the 6.2- may be a good place to get parts??

[wildwilly4x4]

I put a 6.5 in my '72. I used the entire crossmember from the '80s donor vehicle and an NV4500/ NP 205 drivetrain combo with 1 ton axles. My build is on the 67-72 bulletin board.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by wildwilly4x4

I put a 6.5 in my '72. I used the entire crossmember from the '80s donor vehicle and an NV4500/ NP 205 drivetrain combo with 1 ton axles. My build is on the 67-72 bulletin board.

I've followed his posts. It's a pretty good write-up. Lots of info.

[JohnyWard]

So its been a while but its hard to work in the rain. So a quick pic recap:

I am trying to fit this into this:

And the best way I have found to do this from the pirate forums is to use second gen Blazer and it looks something like this:

These are 1987 chevy halfton motor mounts mounted in the front hole of the factory first gen mounts. I had to oblong them just a bit to match the on-center
bolt spacing from the second gen chevy. The rear bolts of the mounts had to be drilled into the frame. I test fit the motor and it fits! So I will drill out the rest of the holes that I can reach with a drill and bolt it all together for hopefully the last time.

I am using all of the factory nv4500 bell housing and hydraulic clutch. The clutch fork is held on by some very small nuts on a stud and the seems to be some adjustment with these. If I crank them down, it limits the rearward travel of the fork and throw out bearing. Is there an appropriate way to adjust/set this? Sorry I don't have any pics of this.

[packers05]

Cool man keep up the good work

[JohnyWard]

So here it is in place:

and here are some of the transmission cross member you can probably see some of my concers:

^ with the camera prependicular to the yoke face of the front axle.

^ and from the just behind.

You can see the clearance was just barely there. Well the spacer I had in there between the stock crossmember (moved back about 2") and the transmission was a 2" x 3" .120 wall box tube. So I put in a 2" x 4" and picked up more. But there is only +/- .5" between the upper most parts of the TCase and the floor pan.

The extra inch also helped reduce the dirve shaft angles:

^ this was with the 3" spacer in.

Plus I ground down the rivets and removed on the upper TCase xmember seen on this photo:


So that's the up date. Next, fire the engine! I have never heard it run and it makes me a little nervous. Brakes: The MC and Hydroboost are from a 86 military truck and the ports are BEASTLY. plus I need to figure out where to plumb in a preassure reducing/ proportioning valve. And the Clutch.. Russell makes a fitting to convert the factory master/slave fittings to AN fittings. Very nice pieces.

[JohnyWard]

Its been awhile, collecting parts and cementing directions. I mostly have the cooling done, the rad is set, the shroud ordered, I have almost settled on a fan (HMMWV mechanical) and a thermal clutch. The rear driveshaft is ordered, received and its a beautiful Tom Woods piece (highly recommended). Turbo, interior, gauges, exhaust, wiring that's about it. Its getting closer...

For anyone who has ever wondered how dificult it is to put turbo 6.2/6.5td in a 4x4 67-72 truck, check out these clearances:

^As you can see, clearances are tight, the injectors are still the 6.2 long style and they contact. The exhaust manifold contacts the frame at the 3rd port back due to a casting knob and the back slide of the flange is ~3" from the factory box.

And here's what is hopefully will sit on that manifold. Its hopefully going to be a VGT Holset w/ and electronic controller.:


I installed a TPS and Cam sensor (RPM) so the goal is to do an electronic controller (NOT CAN controlled) that will set a boost target from a table of these 2 values. If anyone has recommendations for a shallow EGT and exhaust pressure sensor I'd appreciate it.

[RIDDLA]

Badass can't wait till its done

[JohnyWard]

So here's where I'm at, I am about the modifiy the factory heater box to try and pick up some extra clearance for the exhaust pipe while maintaining the function of the unit. But first I wanted to see if anyone could see any obvious flaws in my plan.

I think that there is just enough room to fit the factory core sideways, parallel to the firewall instead of protruding out from the firewall.

Here are some pictures:

So remember this:


what i was thinking was to mount the core like this:

From another direction


Its a lot of cutting and splicing, but some 1/2" aluminum angle iron on the inside and some weatherstripping for support and sealing and a new sheet meet outer with about 1" of space along the height of the core for air flow may be enough. Which give me a couple of extra inches clearance, the blue tape line is close and the turbo manifolds are not installed, but i gives an idea:



Here's my real concern, IF (and its a big if) I can get the core to fit and the cleances right, How much additional resistance to flow will forcing the air to bend 90 degrees make? Will it likely be a problem to the function of the heater?