Interior insulation ideas?

[vectorit]

I am in the process of trying to figure out the best method to add more sound proofing, and in the same effort try to reduce excess temps inside the Suburban.

The area I am focusing on is the rear cargo areas behind the side panels.

Some Idea's I have so far:

1. Hard board insulation - The type used to panel role up garage doors? Then cut to shape. I like this one the best, since I could easily remove it if I had to.

2. expanding insulation foam, that would be sprayed inside a plastic liner. Not sure about this one, since I would not want a place for moisture to be trapped?

I have already used Dyna-mat through out a lot of the interior, but I have not done anything with the rear cargo area except for adding additional floor padding. I have been hesitant to apply Dyna-mat to the inner body of the cargo area, though I have seen a couple projects on here where it was done everywhere including the ceiling.


What say you?

[capev86]

if you had it gutted, i would say go with rustproofing or better yet, poly bed liner as it would protect the sheet metal from corrossion and seriously reduce body panel vibration. they proved on tv that poly bed liner can absorb energy from explosions!

[AzDon]

I was visiting a local hotrod supplier one day and saw a sample of some stuff called "Lizard Skin" that claimed to seal as well as cut down heat and sonic vibes. Kinda pricey at $180 for a half gallon..... but I realized that white elastomeric roof coating is probably the same stuff and only $62 for FIVE gallons!
I cleaned everything up carefully, then painted three coats from the top of the firewall to the rear, including the face of the tailgate, the inside of the rear q-panel metal, the top of the plywood, kickpanels etc.
Metal panels did not require the kind of prep that you would do for paint smoothness because the stuff is textured and thick. It's latex, so cleans up with soap and water (before drying)
For now, this is literally $62 finished flooring that will make a great rust preventive barrier for later insulation and carpet.
I'm convinced that it cut down the tin-can sounds and a lot of the heat and looks pretty cool too!
If and when I add insulation, I'll use white closed-cell upholstery foam from foamorder.com and contact-cement it in place before carpeting.
I've done this before in a 62 pickup and the cabin had car-like comfort and sound. Closed-cell foam does not have air pockets in it, so it doesnt absorb water (unlike dynamat)







The "camo" job is to keep the white from getting dirty-looking and is just spray paint.

[zac]

My vote is for the hardboard foam. It comes in various thicknesses, is easy to work with and could even be used under the stock headliner that all of us want but nobody makes.

[CG]

Sorry I dont have any links but I have read several comparisons to Lizard Skin and using the Home Depot type stuff. Ive also read where people have made their own version of Skin using the home store stuff. Basically it was mixed reviews...how's that for help lol.

My panel is black and Ill be using the Lizard Skin sound deadener and heat shield coating. cost wise it is kinda pricey, but they say its comparative to the foil lined stuff for vehicles because of the no waste. I can spray it on and brush it in all the little nooks and crannies too.

I have this on the floor of my 71 K20. I took out the carpets because I wanted to use the factory style rubber mat. I used Lizard Skin on the floors and inside firewall. Now I have heat and sound insulation that wont hold moisture.

[jorgensensc]

Here's what I did. After much ( and I do mean much) research I went with Raam Mat. I installed it on the entire floor ( front to back), firewall, inside doors, inside cargo walls, and on the roof. Then I covered everything (floor to roof) with the neoprene type sound deadener they also sell. Next I covered the roof with the styrofoam that was original and covered it with the headliner panels. I put the homedepot closed cell roll insulation on the entire floor before covering with carpet. It seems to have cut out alot of the noise this big ol 402 makes. The way I understand it is this way:
The Raam Mat that sticks to the metal reduces noise by dampening the metal vibrations. Thus the solid sounding door closings I now have.
The neoprene stuff helps to absorb the air traveling noise.
The foam and the closed cell foam help stop the heat transfer. I noticed an immediate improvement in how hot the inside was when I reinstalled the foam in the roof. It works awesome at reducing the heat! This is what I did, and quite honestly I probably have about 500.00 in sound deadening material ( of course I've got enough left over to do the canlb of the stepside next) hope this helps a little.
Shawn

[JoeKan]

Originally Posted by jorgensensc

Here's what I did. After much ( and I do mean much) research I went with Raam Mat. I installed it on the entire floor ( front to back), firewall, inside doors, inside cargo walls, and on the roof. Then I covered everything (floor to roof) with the neoprene type sound deadener they also sell. Next I covered the roof with the styrofoam that was original and covered it with the headliner panels. I put the homedepot closed cell roll insulation on the entire floor before covering with carpet. It seems to have cut out alot of the noise this big ol 402 makes. The way I understand it is this way:
The Raam Mat that sticks to the metal reduces noise by dampening the metal vibrations. Thus the solid sounding door closings I now have.
The neoprene stuff helps to absorb the air traveling noise.
The foam and the closed cell foam help stop the heat transfer. I noticed an immediate improvement in how hot the inside was when I reinstalled the foam in the roof. It works awesome at reducing the heat! This is what I did, and quite honestly I probably have about 500.00 in sound deadening material ( of course I've got enough left over to do the canlb of the stepside next) hope this helps a little.
Shawn

Hi Shawn,
Sounds great. Where did you get all that at?

[jorgensensc]

I called Raam Audio. Don't have their number handy though.
Shawn

[olblue60@aol.com]

I used the raam as well. I dont have the website but you can Google it on the top of this page.